Adventure
A Culinary Adventure in Monaco
I arrived in the glittering little principality of Monaco. I must confess, I wasn’t entirely sure what to expect. I’m not an F1 fan (so all those references to racing never quite registered), nor am I a devotee of ultra‑luxury dining. The only time I really hear about Monaco is when a celebrity decides to move there for tax reasons (and yes, the 0% income tax thing is real). Yet, here I was, walking around Monte‑Carlo, soaking up the views, the sea breeze, the stunning buildings, the grandeur — and I was rather delighted.
Discover Monaco through food, markets and travel in a chef-authored blog with recipes and top restaurant picks
Weather
I recommend visiting between June and August.
Month High / Low(°C)
January 12° / 8°
February 12° / 7°
March 14° / 9°
April 16° / 11°
May 20° / 14°
June 24° / 18°
July 27° / 21°
August 27° / 21°
September 24° / 19°
October 20° / 15°
November 16° / 11°
December 13° / 9°
The food scene - high glamour, but grounded moments
Yes, Monaco has restaurants by the dozen boasting Michelin stars (including Le Louis XV by the ever‑celebrated Alain Ducasse at Hotel de Paris). But I must say—I cannot see and will never be convinced how any food and wine, regardless of who you are or where it comes from, can be worth the thick end of £1,000 per person, each to his own, I suppose.
Anyway, I did check out a few places that seemed fairly reasonable. I walked past one on the way into the town on the quay called Le Quai Des Artistes with some rather impressive lobsters in a holding tank outside. I wandered along the quay and up the hill to a small square right by the steps up to the palace. The waiter was really grumpy, and as I sat down, he shook his head when I ordered a coffee. I have no idea why. I just had to take a photo of him. The coffee was okay, and it was rather nice to rest and watch the expensive cars roll past. It was also cheaper than my daily Costa coffee back home, albeit a little smaller. When I was about to leave, Mr Grumpy did say a friendly ‘Au revoir’; perhaps he was having a moment.
A morning market surprise
Just behind the café, I walk into a larger square where a temporary fruit and vegetable market is set up with 3 or 4 stalls. The produce and selection were very good indeed, especially the wild mushrooms. Chanterelles, Trompet Del la Mort (see Barcelona market blog), and some whopping cepes. Wild strawberries, huge blackberries and Muscat grapes look lovely too.
At the back of the square, I see an arch and a sign Marche de la Condamine, not really sure what it was. As I reach inside, I see it’s a series of small restaurants with stools and a tiny eating area; it’s rammed. Of course, there’s a ham stall, a Lebanese stall, a small butchery and a fabulous cheese counter. Down the other aisle, there is a lovely fresh pasta stall with a long queue and a sandwich bar selling the local delicacy (from Nice), Pissaladière, a flatbread topped with various things, but my favourite – soft onions, olives, herbs and anchovies.
“Real flavour thrives in Monaco’s markets, not just its million-pound menus.”
A Lunch that hits the sweet spot
In the end, I settled at a charming little spot called Truffle Bistrot. The menu is small and the owner is really friendly. I ordered a glass of rosé, and bread arrived in a paper bag (a lovely touch). Then, I chose the Tartare de Bœuf Truffe. It arrives swiftly and looks so good, the finely chopped meat covered in shaved truffles and a side of crispy fries. The seasoning is spot on, and the perfectly hand-cut steak is soft and juicy. The ton of truffle is perfumed and subtle (no bloody truffle oil here), and the fries just top it off. What a fabulous lunch! I shake my head when I get the bill – it’s £43, including the tip! That, to me, is what real food is about – it was so good, so simple, and fabulous value for money.
I walk back down to the quay and past Le Quai Des Artistes, which is now rammed. The food looked really good, and if I ever come back, I will certainly give that place a try. For the moment, though, the truffled tartare will stick in my mind for a very long time.
Final thoughts from Monaco
I walk back down to the quay and past Le Quai Des Artistes, which is now rammed. The food looked really good, and if I ever come back here, I will certainly give that place a go. For the moment, though, the truffled tartare will stick in my mind for a very long time.
Real flavour comes from honest ingredients, good technique, and approachable settings. Monaco has its share of glitz, yachts and fancy restaurants, but I found my joy in those quiet market corners, brasserie lunches and seafood by the sea.
If you’re heading to Monaco, plan your meals, wander the old town, pause at the garden, and eat simply.
must see places
While food is, of course, the central theme, Monaco is full of visual treats and strolling moments. Here are three spots I recommend with the chef’s eye:
Monte Carlo and the Casino Square
The heart of Monaco’s glamour: watch the cars, soak up the Belle Époque architecture, and take a moment with a coffee (or an espresso) as I did — leaning back and observing the world roll by.
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Marché de la Condamine (Condamine Market)
A real highlight: walking into the market hall, I found wild mushrooms (chanterelles, trompet de la mort, ceps), massive blackberries, muscat grapes — it’s not just for tourists but for shop-aholics in produce. That kind of raw ingredient beauty always makes a chef happy.
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Prince’s Palace of Monaco and Monaco-Ville Old Town
Up the hill from the harbour, past cafés and cobbled lanes, you’ll reach the Palace and the winding streets of Monaco-Ville. The views over the Mediterranean are worth the climb, and you can reward yourself with a simple gelato or coffee near the steps.
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Places to Eat
Here are three restaurants I discovered that stood out for me — and are worth your attention:
Quai des Artistes
Why I liked it: A true brasserie by the quay of Port Hercule, it combines fresh seafood, a charming terrace, and a sense of occasion without feeling overly stuffy. It felt lively, local and yet indulgent in its own gentle way.
- Location: 4 Quai Antoine 1er, Port Hercule, La Condamine 98000 Monaco
- Cuisine: French brasserie / seafood
- Website: https://www.quaidesartistes.com/en/
Truffle Bistrot (San Maurizio 1619)
Why I liked it: Tucked away inside the market-hall, this little gem specialises in truffles and Piedmont-style cuisine — hearty, aromatic and full of love. My tartare de boeuf with shaved truffle is still in my memory.
- Location: Place d’Armes (Marché de la Condamine), 98000 Monaco
- Cuisine: Italian / Piedmont truffle-specialist
- Website/Instagram: Instagram @trufflebistrot
Chez Pierre
Why I liked it: A classic French-Monegasque brasserie in the lanes behind the palace—comforting dishes (steak-tartare, escargots, foie gras) in a warm, unpretentious environment.
- Location: Monaco-Ville (exact address at website)
- Cuisine: French brasserie
- Website: https://chezpierre.mc/
Inspired Recipes
Some recipes inspired by my brief trip to Monaco
Pasta al Limone e Gamberi (Lemon-Prawn Pasta)
Fresh tagliatelle or linguine with king prawns, lemon, butter, parsley and olive oil – a zingy, sun-kissed taste of the Mediterranean coast.
View RecipeTruffle-Tartare de Boeuf with Fries
Hand-chopped beef tartare delicately seasoned, topped with truffle, served alongside crisp golden fries for a luxurious and earthy French treat.
View RecipeFusilli with Peas Mozzarella & Sage
Fusilli pasta, combined with sweet peas, creamy mozzarella, and aromatic sage, is fresh, creamy, herby, and satisfying for a quick, delicious weeknight meal or a relaxed lunch.
View Recipe