Adventure
A Short Stay in Bermuda
I’ll admit it straight away: before visiting Bermuda, my knowledge of the place was fairly limited. In my head, it was vaguely Caribbean, somewhere warm and sunny with rum drinks and sandy beaches. Basic school geography clearly failed me somewhere along the line.
Discover Bermuda’s food scene, seafood recipes, cafés and travel tips in this island guide.
Fish Chowder, Ocean Breezes, and One Outstanding Swordfish
Bermuda, as it turns out, is something rather different.
This British Overseas Territory sits roughly 600 miles off the coast of North Carolina, much closer to the United States than the Caribbean islands. It’s made up of seven main islands and around 170 smaller islets and rocky outcrops. The main island — simply called Main Island — is only about fourteen miles long and barely a mile wide in places.
It’s compact, easy to navigate and wonderfully relaxed.
And when it comes to food, it’s a fascinating blend of British comfort cooking, Portuguese influence and a splash of Caribbean flavour.
Which, as you might imagine, had my chef’s curiosity fully engaged.
Rain, Cruise Ships and Dockyard Dining
My introduction to Bermuda was rather wet.
The first stop was The Royal Naval Dockyard, perched at the northern tip of the island in Sandy’s Parish. It’s where most cruise ships dock, which means plenty of shops, museums and restaurants aimed squarely at visitors stepping off enormous floating cities.
My first meal was at Bonefish Bar & Grill. To be honest, it was perfectly pleasant but not exactly revolutionary. Shrimp tacos with fries and a crispy fish sandwich — solid, dependable fare that filled the gap without setting the culinary world alight.
The real highlight was the staff. Our waiter warned us that a storm was coming and even showed us the radar on his laptop. We hurried back towards the hotel just as the heavens opened. And when I say opened, I mean properly opened. The rain lasted twelve hours.
Welcome to Bermuda.
“Ocean breezes, fresh fish, colourful towns and unexpected British island charm."
Coffee, Boats and Quiet Charm of Hamilton
The following morning dawned clear and fresh — the sort of sky that makes everything sparkle after a storm.
I jumped on the local bus for the short twenty-minute ride to Hamilton, Bermuda’s capital. Public transport here is brilliantly simple and very affordable, winding along narrow roads that reminded me a little of Jersey.
Hamilton itself is charming rather than grand. Pastel-coloured buildings line the harbour, expensive yachts bob gently in the marina, and the streets are dotted with cafés, boutiques and restaurants. It’s clearly a prosperous place — those boats don’t come cheap.
My mission, naturally, was coffee. I found it at a cracking little spot called Brew, an artisan coffee shop opposite the harbour. The place has a proper modern café vibe: polished wood counters, shelves of beans and enthusiastic young baristas taking their craft seriously.
The coffee was excellent — rich, balanced and made with care. Exactly what you want when starting a day of wandering.
Bowls Done Properly at Devil’s Isle
Lunch turned out to be one of the pleasant surprises of the trip.
Tucked down a side street in Hamilton sits Devil’s Isle Café, a place that manages to be stylish without being pretentious. Awning-covered windows keep out the occasional shower, and inside, the décor is relaxed and welcoming.
Their reputation for coffee is excellent, but the food deserves just as much praise.
We ordered two of their signature bowls — dishes that might sound a little “healthy café cliché” on paper but turned out to be beautifully balanced.
The Harvest Bowl combined kale, Napa cabbage, fennel, sprouting seeds, flax, beetroot and nuts with a punchy tamarind-ginger dressing.
The Nourish Bowl was even more ambitious: red cabbage, rocket, spinach, Swiss chard, cherry tomatoes, roasted celery root, fermented fennel, golden beetroot and fried courgettes with a Thai coconut dressing.
Yes, it’s a mouthful to read — but every element had purpose. Texture, acidity, sweetness and crunch all working together. Sides of bacon, truffle fries and mashed potato added a little indulgence. The fries were excellent; the mash was, well… mash. Sometimes mash is just mash.
Weather
I recommend visiting between June and August.
Month High / Low(°C)
January 20° / 14°
February 20° / 14°
March 21° / 15°
April 23° / 17°
May 26° / 20°
June 29° / 24°
July 30° / 26°
August 30° / 26°
September 29° / 25°
October 27° / 22°
November 24° / 19°
December 22° / 16°
A Bus Ride Across the Island
The next day, I set off on a longer bus journey to St George’s, located at the opposite end of the island.
The trip takes about an hour and is absolutely worth doing. Bermuda unfolds along the road like a travel brochure — turquoise water, white-roofed houses and lush greenery. Being a Sunday, the roads were quiet and the pace wonderfully slow.
St George’s itself is a delight. The town is filled with beautifully painted colonial buildings and cobbled streets, though when we arrived, it was eerily quiet. Just off the main square, however, I found a place that quickly changed the mood.
A restaurant called Wahoo’s.
The Best Swordfish I Have Ever Eaten
The entrance is small and unassuming, but inside Wahoo’s was buzzing.
A blackboard listing the day’s catch immediately caught my eye — always a good sign in a seafood restaurant. Rockfish, wahoo, pomfret, swordfish and something called red hind, a local type of grouper.
Even better, a large box of local lobster was sitting beside the bar, the poor things attempting a daring escape.
We grabbed a pale ale while waiting for our table and were soon seated on a raised terrace overlooking the harbour. It was breezy but bright, the sort of view that makes everything taste better.
I started with Bermuda fish chowder. Now, this was unexpected. Dark, thick and intensely flavoured, it bears little resemblance to the pale chowders many people imagine. It arrived with two essential additions: Bermuda sherry pepper sauce and a small carafe of rum.
Apparently, the rum is a nod to local seafarers. It works brilliantly.
For the main course, I ordered grilled swordfish, and I’ll say this plainly: it was probably the best swordfish I’ve ever eaten in a restaurant.
Thick, impeccably fresh and cooked perfectly. Served with pineapple relish, coleslaw and rice with beans — simple accompaniments that let the fish shine.
My friend’s lobster ravioli with creamy marinara sauce was also excellent.
Dessert was unusual: chocolate bread pudding with Gosling’s black rum custard. Very soft, very rich, and surprisingly delicious.
Rain, Sushi and Coffee Again
The following day, the rain returned with enthusiasm.
Our hotel owner kindly gave us a lift to the bus stop — a small act of kindness that travellers always remember.
Back in Hamilton, we sought refuge in a café at the harbour end called Café Vergnano, a peaceful little spot serving excellent Italian coffee and sweet treats. We sat for quite some time watching the rain roll across the marina.
Normally, when travelling, I make a point of eating local food whenever possible. It just feels right. But sometimes practicality wins.
With rain hammering down, we ducked into a small sushi restaurant in a shopping mall called Wasabi. The owner explained that most of the fish was local, and the sushi was fresh, clean and extremely well made.
Proof that good ingredients travel well across cuisines.
Final Thoughts on Bermuda
Bermuda is an intriguing place. It’s not tropical in the Caribbean sense, nor is it purely British. Instead, it sits somewhere comfortably in between – familiar yet distinct.
The food reflects that perfectly: hearty British roots, Portuguese warmth, and a touch of island flavour.
Would I return? Honestly, probably not for a full holiday, but I’d happily go back for that swordfish.
must see places
Horseshoe Bay Beach
One of Bermuda’s most famous beaches, known for its pink-tinged sand and turquoise water. It’s stunning on a sunny day and a brilliant place for a swim.
Website: https://www.gotobermuda.com
St George’s Historic Town
A UNESCO World Heritage Site filled with colourful colonial buildings and cobbled streets. It feels like stepping back several centuries.
Royal Naval Dockyard
A historic naval base turned visitor hub with museums, shops and ferry links. It’s also where many cruise ships arrive on the island.
Places to Eat
Wahoo’s Bistro & Patio
A lively seafood restaurant in historic St George’s serving exceptionally fresh local fish. The grilled swordfish alone makes the journey worthwhile.
- Location: St George’s, Bermuda
- Cuisine: Seafood / Bermudian
- Website: https://www.wahoos.bm
Devils Isle Café
A stylish Hamilton café known for outstanding coffee and beautifully balanced bowls packed with fresh ingredients. It’s modern Bermudian café cooking done extremely well.
- Location: Hamilton, Bermuda
- Cuisine: Modern Café / International
- Website: https://www.devilsislecoffee.bm/
Brew Bermuda
A relaxed artisan coffee shop overlooking Hamilton Harbour. Excellent coffee, great brunch dishes and friendly service make it a perfect start to the day.
- Location: Hamilton, Bermuda
- Cuisine: Café / Coffee
- Website: https://www.irg.bm/brew
Inspired Recipes
Some recipes inspired by my brief trip to Bermuda
Bermudian Fish Chowder
Smoky, rum-kissed Bermudian chowder, deeply comforting, rich, irresistibly memorable.
View RecipeCaribbean Lobster & Mango Salad
Sweet lobster meets juicy mango, chilli heat and citrus freshness in a light, vibrant island salad.
View RecipeGrilled Swordfish with Pineapple Relish
Succulent grilled swordfish, elevated by vibrant, sweet-heat pineapple relish.
View Recipe