Cod and Custard Tarts
Lisbon has been on my list for years, so when a cruise delay unexpectedly gave me an extra day in the Portuguese capital, I wasn’t going to waste it. I had originally planned to fly into Lisbon, catch a connecting flight and board my ship in Ponta Delgada. The weather, the Bay of Biscay and a few problems with the ship changed all that. Sometimes travel plans have a funny way of improving themselves.
I left the ship on a sunny autumn Sunday and headed into town. Lisbon was remarkably quiet, with cafés opening their doors and locals slowly getting on with their Sunday. It’s a city made for walking, although I should point out that Lisbon has some seriously steep streets. You soon realise that those hills are not just decorative!
Coffee, markets and a very long walk
My first destination was Fabrica, a coffee shop I’d researched before leaving the UK. I’d read that the coffee was excellent, perhaps with just a touch of pretension, but I liked the place immediately. Locals and visitors were sitting outside enjoying brunch, and my coffee was exactly what I needed.
From there I wandered towards the main square and through the Sunday market, where you could buy everything from handbags and ceramics to things that looked suspiciously antique. Beyond the square was a magnificent tree-lined boulevard, full of smart shops and little cafés.
I had one important mission: finding a charging cable for my new phone. After a bit of Googling, I discovered that the only place open on Sunday was a rather smart department store. Get me! A department store! I haven’t said that for years.
By the time I had my cable, I had walked miles. My phone eventually reckoned on around 17,000 steps. That’s what I call earning lunch.
Salt cod, octopus and a very good beer
I headed back towards the quay and made my way to Lisbon Tu e Eu, a tiny restaurant with just a handful of tables. It immediately felt like the sort of place I love: simple, busy and apparently run by people who actually care about the food.
I started with a cold beer – medicinal purposes, obviously – followed by Salada de Polvo, a wonderful octopus salad with ripe tomatoes, peppers, red onion, parsley, olive oil, vinegar and chilli. The octopus was beautifully tender and the sharp dressing cut through it perfectly.
Then came Bacalhau à Brás, shredded salt cod mixed with onions, matchstick potatoes and soft scrambled egg, finished with olives. Honestly, it was one of the tastiest things I’d eaten for ages. After nearly 47 years of cooking, I still find dishes I’ve never encountered before. That’s what makes food so exciting.
For dessert I went for a Pastel de Nata, Portugal’s famous custard tart. Crisp pastry, creamy custard and just enough caramelisation on top. Job done.
I left Lisbon very full, slightly tired and extremely happy.
The waitress even asked me to sign the wall and invited me back for lunch the following day.
I only wish I could have stayed.
Inspired Recipes
Some recipes inspired by my brief trip to Lisbon
Bacalhau à Brás
Salt cod, crisp potatoes and creamy egg combine in this brilliantly simple Portuguese classic.
View RecipePortuguese Octopus Salad
Tender octopus, ripe tomatoes, chilli and sharp vinegar make this sunshine-filled salad utterly irresistible.
View RecipeClassic Pastel de Nata
For the most authentic result, eat them warm with a generous dusting of cinnamon and a strong Portuguese coffee.
View Recipe