Adventure

Ajaccio, Corsica

I’ve been to Ajaccio before (previous blog: An Unplanned Stop in Ajaccio, Corsica), and as I discovered on my last visit, this city can surprise you. My original stop was completely unplanned after bad weather prevented us from docking at Bonifacio. I ended up wandering the harbour, discovering Ajaccio’s wonderful food market and having lunch at Le Bosco – a meal that was memorable as much for the husband and wife bickering in the kitchen as it was for the food.

French flag

Discover Ajaccio, Corsica through its markets, restaurants, local food, attractions and delicious recipes inspired by the island.

Weather

I recommend visiting between June and August.

Month High / Low(°C)

January 13° / 4°

February 13° / 4°

March 15° / 6°

April 17° / 8°

May 21° / 12°

June 25° / 16°

July 29° / 19°

August 30° / 20°

September 26° / 17°

October 21° / 13°

November 17° / 9°

December 14° / 5°

Back to Ajaccio and straight to the food

This time, being a Saturday, the market was absolutely packed. And what a market it is. Locals were enjoying cured meats, Corsican cheeses, oysters, whelks, prawns, and local street food. I was tempted to grab a glass of wine and simply stuff myself silly, but I had somewhere else to be.

Coffee first.

I struggled to find somewhere that looked promising until I settled at Brasserie Tino, right on the quay towards the marina. They were initially a little reluctant to serve me so close to lunchtime, but after I explained I’d only be there for 15 minutes, everything was fine. The coffee was excellent – considerably better than I expected – and the view straight across the marina was rather good too.

Ajaccio 2026

“Ajaccio serves sunshine, simple food, history and proper Corsican character.”

Lunch at Pinocchio: simple food done properly

I wandered up through the town looking for a small family restaurant called Pinocchio. It was packed with locals, which is usually enough to get my attention. Apart from a couple who pushed in before us – grrrrr – we were the last table they accepted.

The menu was wonderfully straightforward. Beer, wine, water and bread arrived, followed by an older lady who I suspect was very much the boss.

I ordered whole dorade royale. It arrived beautifully cooked, fresh as a daisy, with lightly roasted potatoes, dressed salad, beetroot and sweetcorn. My friend’s boudin oignon, Corsican-style black pudding with onion, was soft, deeply flavoured and wonderfully filling, accompanied by proper fries.

This is what I love about simple cooking. There is nowhere to hide. If the fish isn’t fresh or it’s overcooked, you know about it immediately.

A local white wine washed everything down beautifully.

Dessert was gloriously old school: chocolate mousse with a little squirty cream and morello cherry ice cream. Nothing clever, nothing pretentious, just satisfying food.

The bill came to around €70 for two including a tip. Not exactly cheap, perhaps, but about right for a good neighbourhood restaurant. And that, for me, is Ajaccio at its best.

Ajaccio: a city worth eating your way around

Ajaccio has plenty of history, but you don’t need to spend all day in museums to appreciate it. The narrow streets of the old town, harbour, market and waterfront are made for wandering, stopping for coffee and seeing what catches your eye. The city is particularly closely associated with Napoleon Bonaparte, who was born here in 1769.

The market is still one of my favourite places to start, with local cheeses, charcuterie, brocciu, honey, olive oil, fresh fish and other Corsican specialities.

And then there is the sea. Walk far enough and the views open out towards the Sanguinaires Islands. Come here at sunset and you’ll understand why Ajaccio has such a hold over visitors.

Would I come back? Absolutely.

Would I queue for another plate of average food just because I’m hungry? Absolutely not.

Thankfully, Ajaccio has enough good cooking to make searching for it rather enjoyable.

While food is, of course, the central theme, Ajaccio is full of visual treats and moments for strolling. Here are three spots I recommend:

Maison Bonaparte

Napoleon Bonaparte was born here on 15 August 1769, and the family home is now a national museum. It is an essential stop if you want to understand Ajaccio’s imperial history.

Palais Fesch – Musée des Beaux-Arts

This is the one for art lovers, housing an impressive collection of Italian paintings including works associated with Botticelli, Titian and Bellini. The Ajaccio Tourist Office describes it as one of France’s most important collections of Italian paintings.

Pointe de la Parata and the Sanguinaires Islands

Head out towards the Parata peninsula for spectacular views across the Mediterranean and the Îles Sanguinaires. Go at sunset, when the changing light makes the landscape particularly dramatic.

Here are three restaurants I wholeheartedly recommend, each for different reasons.

Le Bosco

A great choice for seafood, fish and traditional Corsican cooking in the historic centre. I’ve eaten here before, and despite my mixed food verdict, the setting, fresh produce and entertaining family atmosphere made it memorable. The restaurant currently describes its cooking as seasonal, using fresh local produce and local fish.

  • Location: 10 Rue du Conventionnel Chiappe, 20000 Ajaccio, France
  • Cuisine: Traditional Corsican, seafood and fish
  • Website: Le Bosco Ajaccio
Le 20123

Le 20123 recreates the atmosphere of a Corsican village in the middle of Ajaccio, serving traditional recipes based on fresh local ingredients. It’s the sort of place I’d choose when I want the food and atmosphere to tell me something about Corsica rather than simply feed me.

  • Location: 2 Rue Roi de Rome, 20000 Ajaccio, France
  • Cuisine: Traditional Corsican
  • Website: Le 20123
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  • A Merendella Citadina

Located in a charming pedestrian street in the old town, just steps from the cathedral, it offers generous, authentic cuisine with local produce and an emphasis on Corsican flavours.  

Inspired Recipes

Some recipes inspired by my brief trip to Ajaccio

Corsican-Style Whole Bream with Roast Potatoes and Lemon

Corsican-Style Whole Bream with Roast Potatoes and Lemon
Golden bream, potatoes and lemon capture Corsica’s glorious simplicity in one wonderfully satisfying supper.
View Recipe

Corsican Brocciu, Spinach and Herb Fritters

Creamy brocciu, spinach and herbs make these rustic Corsican fritters utterly irresistible and wonderfully easy.
View Recipe

Grilled Octopus with Houmous and Corsican Fricot Veggies

Calvi, Grilled Octopus with Houmous and Corsican Fricot Veggies
A Mediterranean-inspired dish with fresh, tender grilled octopus served atop creamy houmous, accompanied by a medley of Corsican-style fricot vegetables.
View Recipe