Adventure
Alghero, Sardinia
I have been to Sardinia a few times now, but until this trip I had only really explored the south of the island, particularly Cagliari. Don’t get me wrong, Cagliari has plenty of great places to eat and drink, but I was rather excited when I discovered we were heading north to Alghero.
And I wasn’t disappointed.
Discover Alghero, Sardinia with its seafood, restaurants, historic old town, top attractions and delicious Sardinian recipes.
Alghero is one of those places where the old town really is the place to be. Yes, it is touristy. Yes, in the summer holidays it can be busy. But you know what? It doesn’t really matter because it still has plenty of charm, character and, most importantly for me, a surprisingly good selection of restaurants.
Catalan influence is fascinating here, and you can see it in the architecture, language, and, perhaps most interestingly, the food. Menus regularly wander between Sardinian, Italian and Catalan cooking. One minute you’re looking at risotto or pasta, the next there is paella staring back at you.
It is a slightly strange combination, but somehow it works.
Weather
I recommend visiting in May, June or September.
Month High / Low(°C)
January 13° / 9°
February 13° / 8°
March 15° / 10°
April 18° / 12°
May 22° / 15°
June 27° / 19°
July 29° / 22°
August 29° / 22°
September 26° / 20°
October 22° / 17°
November 18° / 13°
December 14° / 10°
Discovering Alghero’s old town
I think the best way to explore Alghero is simply to walk.
The historic centre is surrounded by old defensive walls and packed with narrow, sandstone streets, little squares, churches, shops, cafés and restaurants. The walls run along the waterfront, offering wonderful views over the Mediterranean, especially at sunset. The old town itself is compact enough to explore comfortably on foot, which is just as well because wandering around is half the fun.
And then there is the food.
I quickly discovered that menus around the old town tend to share a number of familiar dishes. Seafood features heavily, naturally, but you’ll also find Catalan-inspired specialities alongside classic Sardinian pasta, risotto and grilled fish.
This mixture of cultures is one of the things that makes Alghero different from other Sardinian destinations.
Eventually, I decided to eat at MOMA Restaurant, right down towards the end of the sea wall and slightly away from the busiest section.
That turned out to be a very good decision.
“Alghero blends Sardinian soul, Catalan charm, sunshine and superb seafood beautifully.”
A very good lunch on the sea wall
The young staff at MOMA were cool, relaxed and extremely friendly. With temperatures hovering in the mid-30s, a cold beer and sparkling water were absolutely essential.
I ordered assaggi misti antipasti — mixed seafood antipasti — followed by roasted octopus with potato purée, Mediterranean-style grilled swordfish and a mixed salad. A Sardinian rosé completed the picture.
Two types of bread arrived, including Sardinia’s famous pane carasau.
This wonderfully thin, crisp flatbread is made from durum wheat dough, traditionally stretched incredibly thin and baked until it puffs up, then split and baked again. The result is something almost ridiculously crisp, rather like an Italian/Sardinian version of melba toast. And yes, I could happily eat an entire basket of the stuff.
The seafood antipasti was fresh and nicely judged, with chilled tomato sauce, swordfish, poached monkfish, tender octopus, small prawns or crayfish, potato salad and little saffron onion pearls.
Nothing was overdone.
Sardinian seafood at its best
The octopus was superb. Not chewy — always a good start — and served with beautifully flavoured potato purée, saffron onions, crisp pieces of pane carasau, cherry tomatoes and fried courgette.
It was enough without being too much, which I always appreciate.
But the star of the show was undoubtedly the swordfish.
Simply grilled, perfectly cooked and served with little more than olive oil and lemon, it was absolutely magnificent. The flesh was soft, dense and juicy, with that lovely meaty texture that makes swordfish such a good fish for grilling.
Warm ripe tomatoes, black olives and a little rocket were all it needed.
In fact, it reminded me of some of the best fish I have eaten elsewhere — including Wahoo’s in St George’s, Bermuda, and Calabash Cove in St Lucia.
That is serious praise.
Lunch for two came to around £125 including tip, which I thought was pretty good value considering the location, quality and service.
The dessert I really didn't enjoy
I had to try the local seadas, a traditional Sardinian fried pastry filled with cheese and served with honey and citrus.
When it arrived, it looked spectacular.
I expected something smaller and more patty-like, but this was substantial. The pastry was nicely blistered and crisp, and the honey and citrus smelled fantastic.
Then I tried cutting into it.
The warm cheese was surprisingly hard work to slice, and once I got through it, the flavour reminded me of eating fried, greasy halloumi.
Now, I know plenty of people absolutely love seadas. I clearly wasn’t one of them.
The honey and citrus rescued it slightly, but if I’m being completely honest, it really wasn’t my scene.
The tiramisu, on the other hand, was pretty good.
Well, I suppose you should be here.
And that is the joy of travelling and eating: not everything has to be wonderful. Sometimes you have to try something you don’t like in order to appreciate the things you really do.
My final taste of Alghero
Overall, I had a lovely time in Alghero.
It’s touristy, yes. It’s busy in summer, absolutely. But beneath that is a fascinating old town, a wonderful sea wall, a real connection to the water, and a food culture that reflects Sardinia’s complicated history.
And I like that.
I like that you can eat pasta, paella, risotto, grilled swordfish, and Sardinian specialities within a few streets of one another.
I particularly like the seafood.
And I like a destination where the cooking doesn’t try too hard.
The swordfish was superb. The octopus was excellent. The pane carasau was dangerously moreish.
The seadas?
Well, let’s just say I won’t be rushing back for those.
Would I return to Alghero?
Yes. Definitely.
Must See Places
Alghero Old Town and Bastions
The old town is the heart of Alghero, with its narrow lanes, historic churches and sixteenth-century walls overlooking the sea. Walk the bastions towards sunset and you’ll understand immediately why this is such a popular part of Sardinia.
Website: Alghero Turismo – Old Town information
Neptune’s Cave
This extraordinary cave lies beneath the cliffs of Capo Caccia and can be reached by boat or by tackling the 654-step Escala del Cabirol. Inside are stalactites, stalagmites, underground chambers and a saltwater lake — well worth the effort.
Website: Neptune’s Cave official information
Capo Caccia
The dramatic limestone cliffs of Capo Caccia are one of the most spectacular landscapes around Alghero. Take a boat trip along the coast and you’ll appreciate just how impressive this rugged corner of Sardinia really is.
Website: Visit Alghero – Capo Caccia
Places to Eat
Alghero has an impressive selection of places to eat, but these three are high on my list for a short stay.
MOMA Restaurant
Location: Bastioni Marco Polo 7A, Alghero
Cuisine: Sardinian, Italian and Mediterranean seafood
Instagram: MOMA
This is my personal choice because of that superb grilled swordfish and the wonderful position on Alghero’s sea wall. The young staff were relaxed, friendly and efficient, and the whole lunch felt exactly right for a hot Sardinian afternoon.
Ristorante Mabrouk
Location: Via Santa Barbara 4, Alghero
Cuisine: Sardinian and Mediterranean seafood
Instagram: Mabrouk
Mabrouk is well known for its fresh-fish, fixed-price approach, with a menu built around what is available that day. If you want a proper seafood feast rather than picking at one or two dishes, this is the sort of place I’d book ahead for.
Alamo – Cucina di Mare Sardo Catalana
Location: Via Ambrogio Machin 20, Alghero
Cuisine: Sardinian-Catalan seafood
Instagram: Alamo
If you want to understand Alghero’s unusual Sardinian-Catalan food culture, Alamo is a great place to start. Its signature Paeja blends Sardinian and Catalan influences and includes 22 ingredients—seafood, meat, and local vegetables—so it’s a dish for a hungry table.
Inspired Recipes
Some recipes inspired by my brief trip to Alghero
Sardinian Grilled Swordfish with Tomatoes and Olives
Perfectly grilled swordfish meets juicy tomatoes, olives, lemon and rocket for effortless Mediterranean sunshine.
View RecipeSardinian Seafood Pasta with Tomato, Chilli and Garlic
Sweet prawns, mussels and tomatoes create a vibrant Sardinian seafood pasta that tastes gloriously of the
View RecipeWarming Italian-Style Vegetable Broth (Ultimate Diabetes Cookbook)
The best thing about this soup is that there are no rules or cutting sizes. It's entirely up to you! It can also be made in advance, plus it will freeze well for up to three months. To get even pieces of spaghetti in this soup, lay the spaghetti in a clean tea towel and wrap it up tightly. Next, holding the tea towel nice and tight, place one end over the side of a table, by about 5cm. Pull the end over the edge, pulling down at a ninety-degree angle to the table, holding both ends. The pasta will crack into even pieces inside the tea towel (you will hear it). Next, hold the tea towel above the cooking pan and release the bottom end; the even lengths of pasta will fall into the pan, easy!
View Recipe