Adventure
An Unplanned Stop in Ajaccio, Corsica
We were meant to be docking at Bonifacio, but due to a storm brewing, the ship could not safely make it. So, the Captain decided to take us to Ajaccio instead, as the bay was sheltered and we could dock without using tenders. Ajaccio is a much larger port than Calvi, with a big harbour, and is the main ferry port for Sardinia and mainland France. It is a beautiful, warm day when we arrive, and being a Sunday, the town is full of locals enjoying a relaxed day.
An Unplanned Stop in Ajaccio, Corsica – Allows me to explore local markets, top restaurants and recipes inspired by the Corsican capital.
Weather
I recommend visiting between June and August.
Month High / Low(°C)
January 13° / 4°
February 13° / 4°
March 15° / 6°
April 17° / 8°
May 21° / 12°
June 25° / 16°
July 29° / 19°
August 30° / 20°
September 26° / 17°
October 21° / 13°
November 17° / 9°
December 14° / 5°
Ajaccio Market - Morning Magic
The local food market is located right on the quay and is divided into two sections. Inside is mainly for eating with stalls selling wine, filled and topped crepes, the famous courgette beignets, fresh fish, crab, of course, oysters and whelks (bullots). It was a shame, really; there was limited seating, or I would have had an oyster lunch.
Outside, there are more stalls this time, featuring fresh fruit and vegetables, as well as a vast array of cheeses, including many from Corsica, along with hams, salamis, and a wide range of cured meats. The sweet smell of the dried meats as I walked around made me really hungry.
To one side, there is a sort of BBQ stall selling grilled and slow-cooked meat by the gram, served in a brioche but with salad. Sausages, crisp belly and the famous andouiette, the fermented tripe sausage I last had in Bruges, Belgium, when filming at The Chocolate Line (see blog) a few years back. The face of the two little lads asking what they wanted in their bun was lovely to see.
Across the main harbourside road, there are lots of really charming restaurants all packed and spilling out onto the street. I love seeing people enjoy themselves and eat great food. I walk up to the main boulevard and further into the main town. The restaurants are dwindling now, with just a couple left, and they are less busy. Just past an ice cream shop, there is a small alley, and halfway up, I see the sign Le Bosco. The same happened in Calvi (see blog). I stumbled upon a restaurant that I had seen when researching the best places to eat.
"The market’s sweet aromas and lively streets made Sunday in Ajaccio unforgettable"
Lunch at Le Bosca
The restaurant is not full, and the owner beckons me in and sits me down. A nice glass of rosé arrives, accompanied by a small menu. 3 starters, five mains and three desserts. I have to order the courgette beignets, a local speciality. The menu says ‘en fleurs selon saison’, as in the flowers are used in season. For the main course, I go for the risotto de jour, which the chap tells me today is gambas perfect.
It does take an age to get the starter, and I realise that it’s a husband-and-wife operation, and they are of advanced age. Every time the husband enters the small kitchen, he and his wife bicker, and he returns shaking his head, rolling his eyes, and muttering, ‘It’s rather entertaining.’ When there is a lull in the service, he wanders behind the bar and sips rosé.
The beignets arrive with a fresh tomato sort of relish and a side of wilted salad leaves. The fritters are light as a feather, but tasteless. The accompanying relish lacks seasoning and is not sharp enough, and I can’t taste any mint. On the positive side the salad was seasoned and dressed!
After a long wait and a few sharp exchanges in the kitchen, my risotto arrives. The two huge prawns are superb, fresh, and seasoned perfectly. The risotto is very creamy but lacks cheese and is a bit bland.
After Lunch Thoughts on Ajaccio
In a way, I quite liked the simplicity of the meal; it wasn’t bad or anything, just a bit underwhelming. Perhaps my expectations were too high, especially after the superb meal I had in Calvi the day before. The husband and wife bickering more than made up for it in entertainment value, though.
I walk back along the main quayside past the packed tourist bars, cafes and restaurants. Everyone is having a lovely Sunday. Would I come back? I don’t know, maybe for a quick coffee or lunch, next stop: Alicante.
In a way, I quite liked the simplicity of the meal; it wasn’t bad or anything, just a bit underwhelming. Perhaps my expectations were too high, especially after the superb meal I had in Calvi the day before. The husband and wife bickering more than made up for it in entertainment value, though. I walk back along the main quayside past the packed tourist bars, cafes and restaurants. Everyone is having a lovely Sunday. Would I come back? Not sure, maybe for a quick coffee or lunch, next stop: Alicante.
must see places
While food is, of course, the central theme, Ajaccio is full of visual treats and strolling moments. Here are three spots I recommend:
Musée Fesch
This fine arts museum in Ajaccio houses an unexpectedly impressive collection of Italian masters — think Botticelli, Titian, and Veronese. Located in the Palais Fesch, it’s a bit of a cultural gem in Corsica.
Pointe de la Parata
A dramatic promontory at the edge of the Bay of Ajaccio, topped by a Genoese tower. The views over the sea and the neighbouring Sanguinaires Islands are sensational — perfect for that post-meal walk to work off the courgette beignets.
Ajaccio Market (Marché d’Ajaccio)
Right near the harbour, the food market is bursting with local cheeses, charcuterie, fresh fish and produce. As a cook-traveller, this place is gold — you can shop your way around and pick up ingredients for your own little culinary adventure.
Places to Eat
Here are three restaurants I wholeheartedly recommend, each for different reasons.
A Merendella Citadina
Located in a charming pedestrian street in the old town, just steps from the cathedral, it offers generous, authentic cuisine with local produce and an emphasis on Corsican flavours.
- Location: 19 Rue Conventionnel Chiappe, 20000 Ajaccio, France
- Cuisine: Modern Mediterranean, seasonal fresh fish and local produce.
- Website: a-merendella-citadina-restaurant-ajaccio.fr
A Cantina Di Ghjulia
It’s a bit secret, traditional atmosphere, and you’ll come away having tried something that’s truly island-speciality (fried bianchetti, etc).
- Location: 21-26 Rue Conventionnel Chiappe, 20000 Ajaccio, France
- Cuisine: Corsican gourmet, artisan charcuterie, local favourites like bianchetti.
- Website: https://www.acantinadighjulia.com/
Le Bistrot Gourmand
Ideal for a refined meal, with a small menu but big flavour, perfect for a relaxed evening after a market morning.
- Location: 3 Rue Pugliesi Conti, 20000 Ajaccio, France
- Cuisine: Fine-dining bistro, changing handwritten menu.
- Website: https://www.bistrotgourmandcannes.fr/
Inspired Recipes
Some recipes inspired by my brief trip to Ajaccio
Creamy Gambas Risotto with Lemon & Herb Finish
Silky risotto with succulent gambas, zesty lemon, and fresh herbs, every bite is pure creamy bliss!
View RecipeCourgette Beignets with Tomato-Mint Relish
Golden, crispy courgette beignets burst with flavour, topped with zesty tomato-mint relish, a totally irresistible treat!
View RecipeSpiced Potatoes With Yoghurt Mint & Tomatoes
Crispy potatoes, fragrant spices, juicy tomatoes, fresh mint, creamy yoghurt, pure flavour explosion in every bite!
View Recipe