Adventure

Baltic Breezes in Warnemünde

I have to admit something slightly embarrassing: I had never visited Germany before. My children had all been, as part of their school curriculum, and rather unhelpfully, they told me I really ought to go before I got too old! Charming!

The truth is, Germany always seemed to be about the big cities, Bavaria, beer festivals and the odd RAF connection. But when I spotted the chance to visit Warnemünde, I was intrigued. A small Baltic seaside town, close to Denmark and Poland, with a river, beaches and seafood? Well, that sounded much more like my sort of place.

German Flag

Explore Warnemünde with seafood, beaches, attractions and recipes inspired by this charming German Baltic coast town.

Weather

I recommend visiting between June and August.

Month High / Low(°C)

January 3° / -1°

February 4° / -1°

March 7° / 1°

April 11° / 4°

May 16° / 8°

June 20° / 12°

July 22° / 15°

August 22° / 15°

September 18° / 11°

October 13° / 7°

November 8° / 3°

December 5° / 0°

Discovering the charm of Warnemünde’s Baltic coast

Warnemünde sits where the river Warnow meets the Baltic Sea, and it is a genuinely pretty place. The town has a smart, relaxed feel — a little like Padstow or Sandbanks, where city dwellers escape for weekends and summer holidays.

The sandy beach is wide, clean and wonderfully open, with dunes stretching away and the sea air doing exactly what sea air should do. The waterfront is lined with cafés, bars and restaurants, all looking out over the river where boats drift gently past.

What surprised me most was how different it felt from the Germany I had imagined. There were no grand city streets or frantic crowds, just a charming maritime town with lovely architecture, parks and a slower pace of life.

The riverfront, known as Alter Strom, is where Warnemünde really comes alive. Fishing boats bob alongside restaurants and seafood stalls, and this is where I started my hunt for something properly local.

Because, as I have said many times before, when I travel, I want to eat the food of the place I am visiting. Why fly thousands of miles only to eat something that could have been made anywhere?

Warnemünde, Germany

“Warnemünde blends Baltic beauty, fresh seafood and relaxed coastal charm.”

My never ending quest for Coffee

I wandered towards the station and found a small coffee shop called Mahlwerk Coffee Warnemünde. It had a lovely relaxed atmosphere, and the cappuccino and pear and chocolate torte were both excellent.

But lunch was still calling.

Crossing back towards the quieter side of the river, I discovered exactly what I had been hoping for: small fish stalls with smokers gently puffing away outside. The smell was irresistible.

There was an astonishing selection — halibut, zander, herring, salmon, sprats, cod and my favourite, smoked eel. Back home, setting up a smoker beside a harbour on a warm day with gulls flying overhead would probably have an environmental health officer arriving before the fish was ready!

A seafood feast from the Baltic

I chose half a large smoked eel, smoked halibut roe, brown shrimps, bread and some chips. My friend went for a mountain of brown shrimps, prawns in dill mayonnaise, preserved seaweed, red onion and potato salad.

The eel was superb. Slightly cured, beautifully oily and packed with smoky flavour, it was so good I picked it up and ate it like a barbecue sweetcorn cob. Sometimes the best food requires abandoning the cutlery!

The tiny brown shrimps reminded me of Morecambe Bay shrimps back home — sweet, briny and perfect with a little mayonnaise and pickled cucumber.

The best surprise? The whole lunch, excluding wine, came to just £22.56. For seafood of this quality, that felt almost unbelievable.

Warnemünde Lighthouse

The town’s famous lighthouse has watched over the coast for more than a century. Climb to the top for wonderful views across the Baltic shoreline.

Alter Strom Harbour

This historic waterway is the heart of Warnemünde, filled with fishing boats, seafood stalls, cafés and restaurants. It is the perfect place for a slow wander.

Teepott Building

The famous curved seaside building is one of Warnemünde’s most recognisable landmarks, housing restaurants and shops beside the beach.

Teepott Restaurant

A landmark building overlooking the sea, this is a great place for traditional German and seafood dishes with a view. The location alone makes it worth visiting, but the fish-focused menu is the real attraction.

Fischrestaurant Hummerkorb

A proper fish restaurant beside the harbour, specialising in Baltic seafood including lobster, cod, salmon and local catches. It is ideal for anyone wanting a classic maritime meal.

Restaurant Am Strom

Situated beside the water, this restaurant combines fresh fish with seasonal cooking. The riverside setting makes it perfect for a relaxed lunch, watching harbour life drift past.

Inspired Recipes

Some recipes inspired by my brief trip to Warnemünde

Smoked Fish, Potato and Dill Salad

Smoked Fish Potato and Dill Salad
A proper taste of the Baltic coast, smoky, creamy and full of seaside flavour.
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Baltic-Style Smoked Fish Toasts

Baltic-Style Smoked Fish Toasts
Simple, generous and packed with the smoky seaside character of Warnemünde.
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Classic Wiener Schnitzel

Classic Wiener Schnitzel
Crisp, golden veal schnitzel fried in butter, finished with sharp lemon wedges for pure Viennese comfort.
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