Adventure
Canakkale: A Unique Turkish Destination
Pronounced ‘Chanakalle’ or ‘Kanuhkalay’, the last place I was to visit on this trip to Turkey was utterly different from the other two and was the least touristy. It is better known for the short ferry ride across the Dardanelles straight to the First World War battlefields of Gallipoli; additionally, it is also the ancient site of Troy. The day I arrived was Anzac Day, and the town was full of Australians and New Zealanders who had come to pay their respects to the fallen victims.
Explore the charming narrow streets of Çanakkale, bustling with locals enjoying the early spring sunshine, sipping coffee and socialising. Discover unique bakeries offering colourful treats reminiscent of baklava.
Weather
I recommend visiting Canakkale all year long; however, the best time is between September and October.
Month High / Low ()°C)
January 10° / 3°
February 11° / 3°
March 13° / 5°
April 18° / 9°
May 23° / 13°
June 28° / 17°
July 31° / 20°
August 31° / 20°
September 26° / 16°
October 21° / 12°
November 16° / 8°
December 12° / 5°
A Blend of Modern and Traditional
The town caters more to locals than tourists and is likely the most modern of the previous two locations. Therefore, the bus drops me off at a McDonald’s across from the main harbour area.
I wander along the front, then back into the old part of town, searching for coffee, a lunch spot, and the local fish market.
The small, narrow streets are packed with locals enjoying the early spring sunshine, drinking coffee, and generally just hanging out. To me, it was a lovely, warm day, but the locals were all in coats and hats, giving me strange looks in my shorts. Much like Çeşme, many bakeries sell various items I have never seen before. One in particular caught my eye; it looked like a sort of baklava but without filo pastry and came in many colours. Not only that, but it was right next door to the Ezor Coffeehouse.
Coffee and Local Delicacies: A Culinary Adventure
The coffee was excellent. It was intense and fruity but not bitter at all, and it was beautifully presented. Across from the coffee shop were two more bakeries selling Simit (see Çeşme blog), but I was still intrigued by the shop next door called Peynir Helvasi. I wander in and chat with the owner. I managed to decipher that the one I ordered is pistachio, and the other is orange. He weighs them. I pay and return to my coffee next door, hoping the owner isn’t pissed off that I didn’t buy his stuff.
I googled this sweet treat and found out it’s a cheese halva made with unsalted soft cheese, which they call string cheese. Mozzarella can be used, along with sugar and a lot of semolina. My goodness, it’s so sweet; no wonder there are many dentists in Turkey! It has a strange texture, slightly chalky and grainy from the semolina. The orange flavour is great, and the pistachio pieces add a different texture with a milder flavour. This goes to show that after about 46 years of cooking, you are still learning (see Mykonos blog).
Culinary Highlights: Tasting Authentic Turkish Cuisine
Next course, I had to try the spicy and smoked octopus with peppers, onions, lemon, and olive oil. It was served covered with a glass cloche full of smoke (I really despise this sort of stuff), but it was intensely flavoured and well-cooked. It was one of the best dishes I had on this trip – really good. No kebabs here, so I ordered lamb kofta, as it was the closest I could get to some grilled meat. The flattened, spicy, thin lamb patties were served on a warm pillow of bread, accompanied by grilled spicy Shishito peppers, a salad of tomatoes, beans, red onions, a tomato dip, and fries. Local wine and Turkish tea finished me off.
“Çanakkale: where history and local life intertwine.”
Exploring the Local Fish Market
The next stop was the fish market, which involved going deeper into the town through small bazaars and past numerous shops selling very yellow gold. I’m not sure if it was fake, though.
I find it really charming. It’s not what I had expected: a dozen brightly painted rooms selling impeccably fresh fish—bass, mullet, black bream, octopus, anchovies, sardines, and many more that I didn’t recognise. The owners are super friendly and let me take photos.
By now, the day is warming up, and I bump into some fellow Brits and chat. I then set off to find some lunch. My research was sparse, but I wanted to try an authentic kebab. In the end, I found a large restaurant just past the wooden Trojan horse on the main promenade. I thought it might be a bit naff, but it’s called Priamos. There were a few locals eating, so that made me think it must be okay. Like many of the restaurants I had visited in Athens (see blog) and Turkey, Starters featured a vast array of cold offerings from chilli prawns to stewed aubergines, yoghurt, and purslane. I chose asparagus, fava, potato salad, preserved anchovies, and good bread and olive oil – all really good.
must see places
These destinations blend history, culture, and natural beauty beautifully, making Çanakkale a captivating place to explore.
Troy (Troia):
Explore the legendary ancient city of Troy, famous for its epic tales from “The Iliad.” Visit the archaeological ruins and see a replica of the iconic Trojan Horse.
Çanakkale Martyrs’ Memorial:
This solemn monument honours the heroes of the Gallipoli Campaign. It is located on the Gallipoli Peninsula and offers insightful exhibits and stunning views over the Dardanelles Strait.
Bozcaada Island:
Discover this charming island with its idyllic beaches, historic castle, and vibrant arts scene. Savour local wines and seafood while wandering through picturesque streets.
Where to eat
Yalova Restaurant:
Famous for its fresh, local seafood, Yalova Restaurant offers a delightful dining experience with stunning views of the Dardanelles Strait. The warm atmosphere and attentive service make it a favourite among locals and visitors. Don’t miss their signature fish dishes, paired with crisp local wines.
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/yalovarestaurant/
Cafeka:
Located in the heart of Çanakkale, Cafeka blends modern Turkish cuisine with international flavours. Known for its stylish décor and cosy setting, this restaurant is perfect for enjoying gourmet meals crafted from seasonal ingredients. Their diverse menu caters to various tastes and features some beloved Turkish classics with a contemporary twist.
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/cafeka17/
Mori Bistro:
Situated on the scenic waterfront, Mori Bistro is renowned for its vibrant atmosphere and creative dishes. It offers a Mediterranean and Turkish fare mix, featuring an open kitchen concept and an extensive wine list. Enjoy delicious meals while soaking in the breathtaking sunset views over the sea.
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/moribistro
Sweet Treats: Dondurma
The last food I tried in Turkey on this trip was something new to me: an ice cream called Dondurma. Its texture is chewy and dense, made this way so it doesn’t melt quickly. It’s weird because when cooking professionally, I’d add a little gelatine to certain ice creams and sorbets to ‘hold’ during the hot summer days. Not only does it hold, but it also gives you a toffee texture. In Turkey, they use orchid bulb flour (salep) to give it its unique texture, along with sugar, and as far as I can understand, there are no eggs. I enjoyed it, and I’m going to explore it further once I’m back home; I’m not sure if my Waitrose will stock orchid bulb flour.
Inspired Recipes
Some recipes inspired by my brief trip to Çanakkale, Turkey.
Za'atar Flatbread
Za'atar (Zaatar or Zatar) is a Middle Eastern spice blend, typically made with herbs like thyme, oregano, or marjoram, and toasted sesame seeds, sumac, and sometimes salt.
View RecipeSautéed Chicken with Walnuts & Pomegranate
This dish features tender chicken sautéed to perfection, complemented by the earthy crunch of walnuts and the bright sweetness of pomegranate seeds. It's a delightful taste of traditional Turkish cuisine in every bite.
View RecipeBaba Ganoush or Baba Ghanoush
Baba Ganoush is a delicious Middle Eastern dish that has become popular around the world. It is made from roasted aubergine (or eggplant if you are from the US), tahini, garlic, lemon juice, and olive oil. The aubergine is roasted until it is soft and tender, then mixed with the other ingredients to create a creamy, flavorful dip. Baba Ganoush is often served as an appetizer or side dish, and it is especially delicious when served with warm pita bread or fresh vegetables. It is a healthy and flavorful alternative to traditional dips like hummus or ranch.
View Recipe
