Adventure
Cartagena: Coffee, Coastlines and Caribbean Heat
A few years ago, the Colombian tourist board approached ITV’s This Morning and asked if I’d fancy exploring their country and, more importantly, its food. I was absolutely up for it. The bosses, however, decided it was “too dangerous”. Ironically, not long after, we were filming in Rio, where our driver and guide both carried handguns. Funny how the world works, isn’t it?
Fast forward a couple of years, and I finally find myself stepping into the glorious furnace that is Cartagena. And when I say hot, I mean properly hot. Shirt sticking to your back, sunglasses fogging up, sort of hot. But oh, what a place.
My mission? To discover the best coffee and food this Caribbean gem has to offer.
Discover Cartagena’s best food, coffee, sights and recipes in this flavour-packed Caribbean travel guide.
Weather
I recommend visiting between June and August.
Month High / Low(°C)
January 31° / 24°
February 31° / 24°
March 32° / 25°
April 32° / 26°
May 31° / 26°
June 30° / 26°
July 30° / 25°
August 30° / 25°
September 30° / 25°
October 30° / 25°
November30° / 25°
December 31° / 24°
Coffee, Heat and Haggling in the Old Town
I teamed up with Karen Attman – known as the coffee lady of Bogotá – and her Colombian husband Peter Contreras. Between them, they run Flavours of Bogotá, bringing Colombian coffee to the world and championing small-scale farmers. Karen’s knowledge is immense; frankly, it puts me to shame. She helps farmers with just a hectare or two secure fair prices and lobbies the government to protect them. A whirlwind doesn’t quite cover it.
After Peter’s heroic 20-minute haggle with taxi drivers (and a pecked ankle courtesy of a local chicken), we secured a ride for $10 and headed into town. Cartagena’s old city walls rise dramatically from the Caribbean, honey-coloured in the sun, and wandering those streets is an utter joy.
At La Garza Café, Karen orders for me. No cappuccino. No latte. Just black coffee, ground and filtered to order. It arrives warm, not piping hot, and is left to infuse. I take a sip – and it doesn’t taste like coffee. It’s fragrant, gently sweet, with a whisper of bitter chocolate. More like a perfumed tea. The care is breathtaking. It’s treated with reverence, and quite right too.
Cassava Buns and Fruit in the Sunshine
By late morning, I’m starving – standard procedure for me – so Peter insists we visit La Esquina Del Pandebono. We queue (always a good sign) for buñuelos: light buns made from cassava flour, costeño cheese and milk. Crisp outside, chewy within, warm and utterly delicious. If you’re coeliac, this is your treat. Gluten-free and glorious.
Next stop: Libertario Coffee Roasters, where the coffee is soft, fruity, slightly acidic, yet sweet and delicate. Outside, a fruit vendor tempts us with mangoes, oranges, passionfruit and what looks like dragon fruit. Everything is perfectly ripe and bursting with flavour. It’s a world away from the rock-hard, refrigerated sadness we often get in British supermarkets.
Eating sun-warmed fruit in the Caribbean heat is one of life’s great pleasures.
“Sun-soaked streets, bold flavours, coffee beyond imagination.”
A Proper Local Lunch in Cartagena
Before Karen and Peter leave us, they guide us to Restaurante Espíritu Santo, two streets away. Inside, it’s simple. No frills. Packed with locals. No English spoken. Perfect.
Soon, lunch arrives: deep-fried whole fish with sharp lime, double-cooked flattened plantains, coconut brown rice and salad, plus a bowl of chicken stock on the side. Washed down with coconut lemonade, it’s exactly what I want – fresh, bold, satisfying and, as they say, cheap as chips.
Later, we wander through the park near the old town and spot monkeys, macaws, peacocks and flamingos. I’ve barely scratched the surface of Cartagena, and I already know I’ll be back.
must see places
For official visitor information, see: https://www.colombia.travel/en/cartagena
Ciudad Amurallada
The walled city is a UNESCO-listed treasure of cobbled streets, colourful balconies and colonial charm. Wander at dusk when the walls glow gold in the Caribbean sun.
Castillo San Felipe de Barajas
This vast 17th-century fortress offers panoramic views over the city and sea. It’s a brilliant way to understand Cartagena’s strategic importance.
Playa Blanca
A short trip from the city brings you to white sands and turquoise waters. Go early to avoid the crowds and enjoy the Caribbean at its best.
Places to Eat
La Esquina Del Pandebono
A bustling bakery famed for its warm buñuelos and pandebono straight from the oven. It’s a must-visit for authentic Colombian baked treats done properly.
- Location: Centro Histórico, Cartagena, Colombia
- Cuisine: Colombian bakery
- Instagram: /laesquinadelpandebono/
Libertario Coffee Roasters
Exceptional single-origin Colombian coffees brewed with precision and passion. Their light, fruity roasts showcase just how refined Colombian coffee can be.
- Location: Centro Histórico, Cartagena, Colombia
- Cuisine: Speciality coffee and light bites
- Website: https://www.libertariocoffee.com/
Restaurante Espíritu Santo
A no-nonsense local institution serving hearty Caribbean Colombian dishes at brilliant prices. Expect whole fried fish, coconut rice and bold, honest flavours.
- Location: Centro Histórico, Cartagena, Colombia
- Cuisine: Traditional Colombian
- Website: https://www.airial.travel/restaurants …
Inspired Recipes
Some recipes inspired by my brief trip to Cartagena
Caribbean-Style Whole Fried Fish with Coconut Rice
Crisp, fragrant and utterly satisfying.
View RecipeMexican-Style Ceviche de Camarón (Shrimp Ceviche)
Mexican-style shrimp ceviche made with cooked shrimp marinated in fresh lime juice, red onion, chilli, tomato, and coriander, and served cold with tortilla chips for a fresh, zesty appetiser or light snack.
View RecipeCaribbean Jerk Chicken with Grilled Plantains
Spicy jerk-seasoned chicken breasts are grilled until smoky and tender, then served with sweet, charred grilled plantains. Add fresh lime wedges and a crisp salad for a bright, Caribbean-style meal.
View Recipe