Adventure

Corfu Town

Charcoal Smoke, Butter Beans and Proper Greek Cooking

I hadn’t been to Corfu since 1992, and if I’m honest, my memories of it were gloriously hazy. Back then, Kavos was sleepy, quiet and a world away from the neon-fuelled party madness it’s become today. I genuinely can’t remember whether we even made it into Corfu Town itself. This time, though, I was determined to do it properly.

Greece Flag

Discover Corfu Town’s best food, restaurants, recipes and must-see attractions in this flavour-packed Greek travel guide.

Weather

I recommend visiting between June and September.

Month High / Low(°C)


January 14° / 5°


February 15° / 6°


March 17° / 8°


April 20° / 10°


May 24° / 14°


June 28° / 18°


July 31° / 21°


August 31° / 21°


September 28° / 18°


October 24° / 15°


November 19° / 11°


December 15° / 7°

Finding Elia

Arriving in late March, the sunshine was glorious, though there was still that cheeky cold wind whipping through the narrow streets. Corfu Town immediately gets under your skin. Venetian architecture, washing hanging from balconies, tiny alleyways full of shops, bars and tavernas — it’s one of those places where wandering aimlessly becomes the best plan of all.

Now, when I travel, I’m not interested in flashy nonsense or places serving deconstructed feta foam for €28. I want proper local food, cooked by people who’ve been doing it for generations. The sort of cooking where smoke, olive oil and instinct matter more than presentation.

That’s how I found Elia.

A Hidden Gem

Hidden down a tiny courtyard off one of the main shopping streets, about ten minutes from the Old Fortress, it looked exactly the sort of place I adore. Family-run, locals sat nursing thick black coffees and chain-smoking with Olympic-level dedication. Perfect.

Thomas — deeply tanned and looking uncannily like chef John Burton-Race after six months in the Mediterranean — waved me in before I’d even properly stopped walking.

Bread arrived immediately. Good bread too. Not some apologetic basket of dry slices. And then I spotted butter beans in tomato sauce on the menu. Instantly transported back to the late 1980s when I spent a month on Lefkada, living on giant beans and macaroni pie between cooking jobs. Funny how food memories never really leave you.

“Corfu feeds your soul with sunshine, smoke, sea, and simplicity.”

The Magic of Greek Simplicity

The menu was packed with all the Greek classics you actually want to eat in Greece: moussaka, sofrito, stifado and Corfu’s legendary beef pastitsada. Meanwhile, the smell from the charcoal grill drifting across the courtyard was enough to make me forget every fancy restaurant I’ve ever visited.

Nowhere grills meat quite like Greece. My mate Lee has been telling me that for years, and standing there with a chilled rosé from Lefkada in hand, I finally accepted he’s absolutely right.

I asked Thomas whether I should order the moussaka or grilled pork. He looked genuinely offended that I even needed to ask. Decision made.

The butter beans arrived first — huge things swimming in rich tomato sauce with glorious olive oil pooling around the edges. Thomas instructed me to scoop them up with bread, and frankly, arguing would’ve been disrespectful.

Then came the pork.

Honestly, it was one of the finest things I’ve eaten in years. Beautifully charred from olive wood and charcoal, tender enough to collapse under the fork, yet still carrying that incredible smoky crust. Served simply with parsley-heavy salad, homemade tzatziki, flatbread and proper homemade chips.

That’s the thing young chefs need to understand. When the produce is exceptional, you don’t need tricks. Generations of Greek cooks have perfected simplicity. Leave the nonsense behind and let the ingredients do the work.

And for just over thirty quid, including wine and sparkling water? Outstanding.

Before leaving, I wandered into the tiny kitchen where the charcoal spit slowly turned slabs of pork for the evening service. The son proudly explained that in summer, both spits run constantly. And the chef? Mum, of course.

Exactly as it should be.

Corfu Beyond the Plate

Food may be the heartbeat of Corfu, but the island itself is staggeringly beautiful too. The Old Fortress of Corfu offers panoramic views across the Ionian Sea and a fascinating glimpse into the island’s Venetian past. Wander through its weathered stone corridors, and you’ll quickly understand why Corfu has always been strategically important.

Old Town of Corfu

A UNESCO-listed maze of cobbled alleys, faded shutters and hidden cafés, Corfu Old Town is endlessly charming. You can easily lose an entire afternoon simply wandering and stopping for coffee.
Website: Visit Corfu Official Guide

Paleokastritsa

This spectacular coastal area delivers turquoise waters, dramatic cliffs and some of the prettiest beaches in Greece. Boat trips around the caves are worth every penny.
Website: Paleokastritsa Information

Achilleion Palace

Built for Empress Elisabeth of Austria, this palace combines grand architecture with jaw-dropping sea views. The gardens alone are worth the trip.
Website: Achilleion Palace Info

Just three of the many excellent places to eat in Corfu Town.

Elia

A wonderfully traditional family-run taverna hidden in the backstreets of Corfu Town. The charcoal-grilled pork alone is worth flying to Greece for.

  • Location: Corfu Town
  • Cuisine: Traditional Greek, Charcoal Grill
  • Facebook: Elia Facebook Page
Rex Restaurant

One of Corfu Town’s oldest restaurants, serving refined Corfiot classics with proper old-school hospitality. Their seafood dishes are exceptional.

  • Location: Corfu Town
  • Cuisine: Corfiot & Mediterranean
  • Website: Rex Restaurant
The Venetian Well

Romantic, elegant and tucked into one of the prettiest squares in town. Ideal for long lunches and superb local wine.

  • Location: Corfu Old Town
  • Cuisine: Modern Greek & Mediterranean
  • Website: The Venetian Well

Inspired Recipes

Some recipes inspired by my brief trip to Corfu Town

Charcoal-Style Greek Pork Skewers

Corfu Town
Smoky marinated pork skewers grilled until charred, served with flatbreads, salad, and cool tzatziki.
View Recipe

Greek Butter Beans in Tomato Sauce

Corfu Town
Slow-simmered butter beans in herby tomato sauce, finished with fresh parsley, perfect with crusty bread.
View Recipe

My Greek Salad

A classic Greek salad, simple and delicious.
View Recipe