Adventure

Costa Rica

Costa Rica sits neatly between Nicaragua and Panama, a slim strip of land bursting with jungle, beaches and the sort of heat that gets under your skin in the best possible way. Like many places I visit, this was my first time here and, truth be told, I didn’t quite know what to expect. Friends who had cycled through for charity over the years always said the same thing: lovely people, beautiful scenery and a very relaxed way of life. They were absolutely right.

Costa Rica flag

Explore Limón, Costa Rica, with top places to eat, stunning beaches, local flavours and authentic Caribbean-inspired recipes.

Weather

I recommend visiting between June and August.

Month High / Low(°C)
January 30° / 23°
February 31° / 23°
March 32° / 24°
April 32° / 24
May 31° / 24
June 30° / 24°
July 30° / 24°
August 30° / 24°
September 30° / 24°
October 30° / 24°
November 30° / 24°
December 30° / 23°

Finding My Feet in Costa Rica

I landed in Limón, a Caribbean port town with a gentle scruffiness, and immediately felt the pace slow. Nobody rushes here, and if you try to, you’ll only frustrate yourself. After dropping my bags, I decided to head out in search of three things: a quiet local beach, simple food and, being a chef, a proper cup of coffee. Oddly enough, that last part proved harder than expected. For a country world-famous for its coffee, my research wasn’t throwing up anything inspiring. So I ditched the plan, wandered into town and trusted instinct instead — something that usually serves me well when travelling.

Costa Rica

Good Coffee, Empanadas and the Joy of Doing Nothing

 

Limón’s taxi rank consisted of two battered old cars, one half-parked on the pavement. I asked the chap leaning against one where I might find a decent coffee. He pointed down the street and said, “Left.” That was it. On the corner, opposite a small park, sat El Crucero — an unassuming little place that smelled reassuringly of freshly ground beans.

As luck would have it, my friend Nick Hewer was just leaving and confirmed the coffee was excellent. He wasn’t wrong. Locally roasted, all Costa Rican, with different roasts and varieties on offer, it was perfumed, sweet and aromatic — the sort of coffee that demands a second cup, which I duly ordered. As I sat there, the scent of homemade empanadas drifted through the air, testing my restraint. I resisted, just about, and spent a happy half hour people-watching and doing very little. Travel doesn’t always need an itinerary; sometimes a great coffee and a shady seat are enough.

“Costa Rica’s Caribbean pulses with sunshine, spice and soulful living.”

Playa Bonita, a Beachside Lunch

Refreshed and caffeinated, I headed back to the taxi rank and asked the same chap to take me to Restaurant Cocorí on Playa Bonita, one of Limón’s best beaches. We haggled politely and set off in a cab that absolutely reeked of weed. The drive along the coast was worth it, though — sandy coves, lush vegetation and the Caribbean Sea stretching out beside us. Forty minutes later, we arrived at a stunning, almost empty beach. The driver told us he’d come back later and we’d sort the money then. Blimey. He clearly hasn’t worked in London.

Restaurant Cocorí is simple and open-planned, perched above the beach. We were shown to a large deck overlooking the sea, and I immediately contemplated a swim. Hunger won. It was beer time. I studied the laminated menu and opted for a traditional Costa Rican breakfast, while my friend ordered shrimp ceviche.
My plate arrived: fried egg, plantain, rice and beans, mayo, toast, cheap ham and processed cheese. Sounds dreadful, I know. And usually I’d agree. But sometimes food just fits the moment. The sweet, chewy plantain, the nostalgic ham and even the plastic cheese worked. The rice and beans were dense, savoury and deeply satisfying. In contrast, the ceviche was superb — large shrimp, sharp lime, peppers, tomatoes and coriander, served with plantain crisps. Fresh, bold and utterly delicious.

Sun, Sea and Another Country Ticked Off

After lunch, I haggled with a local for a couple of sun loungers that had clearly seen better days. Ten dollars sealed the deal. The beach was blissfully quiet — no vendors, no hawkers, no concrete, just sand, sea and a handful of local families. I swam, watched the waves roll in, and dozed in the sun, thinking about how easy it is to see why Playa Bonita is considered one of the best beaches in Costa Rica.
Eventually, my taxi driver reappeared, even more relaxed than before, and took us back into town at a leisurely pace. Another country ticked off the list, and one that surprised me in the best possible way. Costa Rica doesn’t shout about itself. It doesn’t need to. Simply, it gets on with being warm, generous and quietly delicious, and that, for me, is more than enough.

Playa Bonita

A pristine beach with quiet sands and rolling Caribbean surf — perfect for long walks, swimming or just a lazy sun-soaked afternoon. Its unspoilt nature makes it one of the most beautiful stretches near Limón.

Cahuita National Park

Just under an hour from Limón lies this wildlife-rich coastal park, famous for its trails, coral reefs and relaxed vibe — a superb place to spot monkeys, birds, and snorkel in crystal-clear waters.

Limón Central Market

Step into local life at the bustling municipal market, where vibrant stalls overflow with tropical fruits, fresh seafood and handmade crafts — an essential cultural experience in the heart of town.

El Patty

A beloved local soda (Costa Rican café) where you can sample authentic Afro-Caribbean pastries, fried “patty”, and other Costa Rican snacks — perfect for breakfast or a mid-day bite. The laid-back atmosphere and friendly locals make this a must-visit spot in town.

  • Location: Limón, Limón Province, Costa Rica
  • Cuisine: Local diner / Caribbean snacks
  • Website:  https://www.cahuita.cr/
Restaurante Cocori y hotel playa bonita

With stunning sea views and hearty Caribbean dishes, Cocori offers simple yet satisfying meals right on the sand — think fresh ceviche and classic Costa Rican breakfasts, all enjoyed with sea breezes and laid-back charm.

  • Location: Playa Bonita, Limón, Costa Rica
  • Cuisine: Caribbean & Costa Rican classics
  • Facebook: RestauranteCocori/
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El Patio

A local favourite for relaxed evening meals with a mix of Caribbean and Latin flavours in a vibrant open-air setting — ideal for after a day of sightseeing.

Inspired Recipes

Some recipes inspired by my brief trip to Costa Rica

Costa Rican Rice & Beans (Gallo Pinto – Breakfast Style)

Costa Rican Rice & Beans (Gallo Pinto – Breakfast Style)
Quick, comforting Costa Rican gallo pinto with sautéed onions, peppers, black beans and rice, seasoned with salsa Lizano for rich flavour.
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Caribbean-Style Shrimp Ceviche

Caribbean-Style Shrimp Ceviche
Fresh, zesty Caribbean-style shrimp ceviche with lime, tomatoes, peppers and coriander, served chilled with crunchy plantain chips for dipping.
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Braised Caribbean Octopus

Braised Caribbean Octopus
Tender Caribbean octopus braised slowly with tomatoes, wine, garlic, and peppers.
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