Adventure
Athens – Greece
The late, great Keith Floyd once described Athens as a “dump”. I suspect it was partly because he disliked the food, but also perhaps because, towards the end of his TV career, he’d become a bit grumpy.
Discover Athens through great food, hidden gems, and honest travel tales—plus top places to eat and explore in this unforgettable Greek city.
Weather
I recommend visiting in May or September to avoid the crowds and the hottest weather.
Month High / Low(°C)
January 14° / 7°
February 14° / 7°
March 16° / 9°
April 20° / 12°
May 25° / 16°
June 30° / 20°
July 33° / 23°
August 33° / 23°
September 29° / 20°
October 23° / 20°
November 19° / 12°
December 15° / 9°
Rediscovering a City Once Dismissed
I had visited Athens a couple of times before, but never properly taken the time to explore. I’d always been passing through. The last time I flew in and headed straight to Piraeus with the kids was over 12 years ago. It felt surreal returning to the port where we’d boarded the hydrofoil for a memorable island holiday. I clearly remember my eldest daughter spending nearly the entire 10 days in the air-conditioned room because it was so unbearably hot.
This time, I had more time to spare. The ship wasn’t due to sail until late afternoon, and I’d flown in the previous night. The Piraeus Theoxenia Hotel was perfectly adequate—clean, comfortable, with very friendly staff—and only ten minutes from the port’s centre. Dinner was decent: pork kebabs with salad.
Exploring Athens with Fresh Eyes
After a good night’s sleep, I checked onto the ship and then took a taxi back into downtown Athens. The 25-minute journey took me past the very harbour where my family and I had stood all those years ago. I recognised a small kiosk we’d once stopped at to buy cold drinks for the girls.
A friend had highly recommended a café–bakery–deli, insisting the bread was exceptional. She directed me to 72 Bakery, tucked away on a small side street. She warned me about the queues, and she wasn’t wrong—they patiently snaked around the corner, gazing longingly at the window displays brimming with beetroot sourdoughs, traditional local pies like spanakopita (stuffed with cheese, spinach or chard and feta), and tiropita, a cheese-and-egg version wrapped in golden filo. All looked incredibly fresh.
Up the side street, I popped into the adjoining coffee shop and ordered a coffee with a cinnamon roll. I’m not typically a fan of cinnamon, but this warm, light, laminated, sticky treat was excellent—beautifully spiced and not at all heavy. I loved the coffee too, and even the cups had a stylish design.
Just opposite, Ergon House Deli stood proudly. It was a treasure trove of dried and fresh meats (yes, even Kobe beef), fish, herbs, vegetables, cheeses, and teas. At the front stood an ice cream van, alongside a gleaming glass dome showcasing halva in various colours and flavours—a sweet lover’s dream.
“Athens wins you over with soulful food and unexpected charm.”
From Lost in the City
to Found in the Flavours
From there, I wandered back toward the art and craft district—areas where, in my experience, you tend to find interesting restaurants. I did get a bit lost and had to resort to Google Maps. The place I had booked and received confirmation for turned out to be closed. Grrrr.
Not to be deterred, I meandered through second-hand antique shops, art galleries, and a covered market selling questionable fake handbags. Up one side of a main street and down the other, nothing jumped out at me. The offerings mostly seemed to be fast, watered-down versions of Greek cuisine aimed at tourists. For a moment, I wondered if perhaps Mr Floyd had had a point after all.
Then I spotted a street vendor selling simit (see Turkish blogs—I go into more detail there). This sesame-coated bread ring was something I’d hoped to try later in my trip. I made a mental note.
Off a quiet side street, I stumbled upon a beautifully aged building—En Lordani, a restaurant that looked the part: local, authentic, unpretentious. Inside,
A Perfect Plate and a Nod to Floyd
I started with some warm bread, black olives, and a creamy dish of fava topped with olive oil, red onions, caper berries, and parsley. It was absolutely delicious. Local rosé wine came in tall blue metal beakers, poured in whatever measure I fancied.
Next came whole fried anchovies and shallow-fried sardines served simply with lemon wedges. It was unfussy, honest food—exactly what I was hoping for. The bill for two, including a tip, came to just £32. Brilliant value.
Years ago, as a young head chef, I gave a cookery demonstration. Mr Floyd turned up at the end, and we had a chat and took a photo together. He was witty and charming, and of course, adored by all. But I reckon if he’d eaten what I had that day, he might well have changed his mind. This meal offered everything he said he couldn’t find all those years ago.
must see places
Athens is packed with history and hidden gems—here are three not to miss.
The Acropolis
A UNESCO World Heritage site, a showcase of architectural brilliance, featuring the iconic Parthenon, dedicated to the goddess Athena. It symbolises the glory of ancient Greece and attracts millions of visitors each year. Don’t miss your chance to connect with history where it was made.
Wikipedia: Acropolis of Athens
Monastiraki Flea Market
Discover the vibrant Monastiraki Flea Markets, where a treasure trove of unique souvenirs, antiques, and quirky finds awaits. Visit on weekends for a truly immersive experience!
Website: Monastiraki flea market
Piraeus Harbour
A nostalgic port with bustling walkways and quiet corners, perfect for reflecting on journeys past and watching ferries glide across the Aegean.
Wikipedia: Port of Piraeus
Places to Eat
Athens serves up flavour and tradition in equal measure—here are three spots worth a visit.
72 Bakery Café
Warm, flaky pies and unbeatable cinnamon rolls just off the beaten path.
Instagram: 72 Artisanal Bakery
En Lordani
Authentic Greek home cooking, with fresh seafood and warm hospitality in a charming old building.
TripAdvisor: Restaurant Review
Ergon House Deli
Grab a bite from the gourmet counter or enjoy sweet halva under a glass dome of temptations.
Website: Ergon House
Inspired Recipes
Some recipes inspired by my brief trip to Athens
Phil's Moussaka
Moussaka is a rich Mediterranean dish featuring layers of eggplant, ground meat, and béchamel sauce, baked until golden and delicious.
View Recipe
