Adventure
Discovering Dominica
Hello, fellow foodies and adventurers! As a seasoned travel writer and chef, I revel in exploring vibrant cultures and unique cuisines. Today, let me take you on a journey through Dominica’s lush landscapes and tantalising flavours. It’s a paradise for both travellers and culinary enthusiasts, offering hidden gems that delight the senses.
Join me as I discover the flavours and beauty of Dominica. Explore a memorable culinary experience at Ma Boyd’s Bar and the island’s stunning sights.
Weather
I recommend visiting Dominica all year long; however, the best time is between December and April.
Month High / Low(°C)
January 29° / 23°
February 29° / 23°
March 30° / 23°
April 30° / 24°
May 31° / 25°
June 31° / 25°
July 31° / 25°
August 31° / 25°
September 31° / 25°
October 31° / 24°
November 30° / 24°
December 29° / 24°
Morning Musings and Adventure Plans
I pored over potential lunch spots as I sipped my morning coffee on the balcony. A 30-minute taxi ride seemed excessive, so I decided on a 20-minute walk to Ma Boyd’s Bar. Armed with sun cream and hat, I ventured out into Roseau’s humid streets.
The walk-through of Roseau intrigued me. Passing through gates wrapped in razor wire felt disconcerting, but the streets soon opened into a lively scene with colourful buildings and street vendors selling trinkets. The coast road led me away from the town’s bustle, offering beautiful views of the azure sea.
Lunch at Lobster Alive
My lunch spot, Lobster Alive, awaited me, a famous haven for delectable seafood. It reminds me of a laid-back Club 55 in St. Tropez, with its clean white sands and stylish umbrellas. The staff are fabulous, and if you’re doing lunch, this is how it should be done.
As we settled at our table, a potent rum punch was served, perhaps a strategy for easing the sticker shock of the bill. Though not vast, the menu is lobster-centric, simple and straightforward, just how I like it. There are no fancy frills here.
"The staff are fabulous, and if you're doing lunch, this is how it should be done."
Discovering Ma Boyd's Bar
My destination, Ma Boyd’s Bar, seemed elusive at first. The walk stretched on, but eventually, a small sign welcomed me. “Great Service With A Smile Is Always Guaranteed”, read the inscription, inviting me into a charming spot. The laughter from the kitchen was contagious, setting a warm, welcoming tone.
An older lady (I since found out it was Ma Boyd, aka Veronique Nicholas, a bit of a local celebrity) with a beautiful smile, shuffles around from the kitchen. I ask her if she’s open for lunch, and she tells me, ‘Of course,’ and tells me to follow her. The older gentleman then took me to the side of the building to a small, covered area with plastic tablecloths and pointed to any table I liked. The view is picture-perfect; the lady appears to be drinking a Carib beer and sits next to me. I tell her I’ll have whatever she thinks is best, but I also want stewed gizzards. She cracks a big smile and wanders back into the kitchen.
must see places
Boiling Lake
A trek to this natural wonder, the world’s second-largest hot spring, offers stunning views and a one-of-a-kind experience amidst nature’s impressive geothermal activity.
Trafalgar Falls
These twin waterfalls are a must-see, are easily accessible, and provide spectacular views. A short hike through the lush rainforest reveals these majestic falls, perfect for photography enthusiasts.
Morne Trois Pitons National Park
A UNESCO World Heritage Site, this park offers diverse landscapes, from lush rainforests to volcanic features. It’s an excellent spot for hiking and exploring Dominica’s natural bounty.
Where to eat
The Great Old House
Located in the heart of Roseau, The Great Old House offers a rich historical ambience with delightful Caribbean cuisine focusing on seafood and Creole dishes.
- Location: Roseau, Dominica
- Cuisine: Caribbean, Creole
- Website: [greatoldhouse.com]
Pagua Bay Bar & Grill
This stylish beachfront location provides a blend of international and local fare, with stunning views and fresh ingredients from the island.
- Location: Marigot, Dominica
- Cuisine: Caribbean, International
- Website: [pagua-bay.com]
Kozy’s Niche
A charming local eatery renowned for its authentic Dominican flavours, focusing on fresh, locally sourced ingredients and traditional recipes.
- Location: Portsmouth, Dominica
- Cuisine: Caribbean, Local
- Website: [kozysniche.com]
A Unique Culinary Experience
The menu at Ma Boyd’s was a delightful surprise—codfish, smoked herring, stewed liver, and stewed gizzards, all served with green bananas and local veg. It was a feast for the adventurous palate, showcasing traditional Dominican flavours. My favourite was the stewed gizzards, deeply flavoured and cooked to perfection, with a hint of vinegar and hot sauce to add the right balance.
The main course—saltfish stewed with coconut—arrived next. Accompanied by boiled yuca, rice, beans, and plantain, it offered a symphony of textures and tastes. The rich coconut sauce perfectly balanced the slightly salty fish, making for a memorable meal.
Inspired Recipes
Some recipes inspired by my brief trip to Dominica
Coconut Prawns with Watermelon & Feta
Coconut Prawns with Watermelon & Feta is a delicious recipe that combines crispy coconut prawns with a refreshing watermelon and feta salad. Perfect for seafood lovers looking to try something new!
View RecipePineapple Rum Fritters with Hot Bitter Chocolate Sauce
This Grenadian dessert has pineapple chunkscoated in rum batter and fried until golden brown and served with a hot bitterchocolate creamy sauce. It's a unique and flavourful dessert that is perfectfor satisfying your sweet cravings.
View Recipe