Adventure
Dubrovnik – Croatia
I was here seven years ago, and it only seems like a few months, blimey how time flies. It was a flying visit as we only had a day on shore from a cruise liner. The impact, though, was quite significant; more on that later. Since then, Game of Thrones catapulted Dubrovnik into the big league (I have no idea what it’s about, and I’m probably the only person on this planet who doesn’t). There’s not a corner to be turned without seeing a trinket shop or café using the logo. Fair play to them. I would do precisely the same, although there was a quaint charm about the place before when I visited. As my dear parents would say, that’s progress.
Balkan Lunches is a series of restaurant visits starting in Croatia and Slovenia with a cheeky trip to northern Italy. Join Phil on this whistle-stop tour of the Balkans, where he samples some delightful local restaurants and cafes.
I recommend visiting Dubrovnik from July to August, although any time of the year is good to visit the city.
Month High / Low(°C)
January 12° / 5°
February 13° / 6°
March 15° / 8°
April 18° / 11°
May 22° / 15°
June 27° / 19°
July 30° / 22°
August 30° / 22°
September 26° / 18°
October 21° / 14°
November 17° / 10°
December 13° / 7°
The old town is still spotless, and the polished marble streets are still as slippery as ever, as I found out as it hammered down on my recent visit. The coach dropped me right outside the old walls. I felt rather lazy, to be honest, especially as it wasn’t raining then. I wander into the old town and browse the many trinket shops. It’s early March, so it’s not that busy, which is nice, with no queues or rather rude tourists pushing and shoving.
I go to the small harbour at the end of the main street and wander around the quay, watching fishermen landing their very small catch, repairing nets, and cleaning fish. The local stray cat population are hanging around for a free bit of grub. Local dogs wander about, something I remember from my last trip, and they are very friendly. I stroll back to the small square at the other end of the main street, get a coffee and a grappa (yer, never at home) and watch the locals go about their business; I just love people-watching. The coffee and service are excellent, and as it starts to rain, I sit back in my chair and enjoy the warmth of the rather splendid local fire water.
It's Like Finding an Old Friend
As I mentioned earlier on my last flying trip, I had done some research and discovered a fabulous restaurant. Kopun, on the outer walls up by the cathedral. Finding it was a bit of a hassle, but I got there in the end. The name Kopun is Croatian for capon, a large male chicken. The meal I had last time was very good indeed (see blog on my website vickery.tv). This time, I was fortunate as the restaurant had only been open three days after a winter break. I booked online and mentioned I had visited them a few years ago. As I arrived, the staff were charming and courteous, and as it was raining, I chose to eat inside, although the outside had covers and heaters.
The restaurant is small, very cosy, lovely, and quiet, which is great for me but possibly not for them. On the table near me are a couple I recognise from the ship, tucking into black ink risotto, which amused me as I had cooked something similar in a demo onboard a few days previously. The lady was tucking in; however, her husband wasn’t sure, and despite her reassurance, he declined to try. A clean bowl later, she was one happy lady.
I digress; what I loved so much on my last visit were the oysters from Ston and the taste of the chicken. These may seem simple and almost trivial, but the simpler, the better my foodie heaven was. The oysters are not particularly large but fresh, plump, and not too creamy but with a briny kick. My capon dish comes from a 14th-century recipe using bitter oranges, spices, white wine, a little dried fruit, and a few gnocchi. The gnocchi is made with a béchamel base, not potato, as you see in Italy.
Sadly, on my latest visit, there were no oysters, but they did have mussels cooked in a Buzara style, which means tomatoes, lots of garlic, white wine breadcrumbs or ground almonds. Word of warning: don’t wear anything white as it goes everywhere. However, they serve with lots of local bread and a spoon to hoover up all the sauce. The mussels are smaller than the UK but equally delicious.
"Simple things done properly are a joy and cannot be beaten."
This Old Recipe Is Worth Its Weight In Gold
Capon, this time from a 19th-century recipe using the rooster, dried plums, forest berries and porcini and served with braised barley cooked with beetroot. The depth of flavour from the succulent bird is so good; the deep-coloured, full-flavoured fat from the boy’s leg is just superb. You often hear people say chicken doesn’t taste like it used to, but this is a perfect example of how it used to be. God, it’s so good.
I don’t usually have a dessert at lunchtime, but today, a moist almond and orange cake arrived, along with a large grappa, at the house! It’s a great way to round off a simple but fabulous lunch.
I’m so glad I returned as it was just as good as before, although I’m not sure when I’ll be back. But if you are in the area and get a chance to go, go. It’s a bit of a hike up lots of stairs, but it’s well worth it.
