Adventure
Gdansk: Baltic Fish, Local Flavours
A City Full of Character and Flavour
I visited Gdansk last year and had a thoroughly good time, so returning was always going to be interesting. The great thing about coming back to somewhere you enjoyed is that you already know the places you want to revisit, but you also get the chance to look a little deeper.
Discover Gdansk through local seafood, restaurants, attractions and Polish recipes inspired by Baltic coastal cooking.
This time, Gdansk was much busier. It was a Saturday, and the streets were packed with visitors, locals, cafés spilling out onto pavements and the usual buzz you get in one of Poland’s most beautiful cities. It is easy to follow the crowds and stick to the obvious tourist spots, but when it comes to food, I have always believed the best meals are usually found slightly away from the main attractions.
I was looking for something specific: a proper local fish restaurant. Not somewhere dressed up for tourists with expensive menus and unnecessary theatre, but somewhere serving simple, honest food using ingredients that make sense for the location.
Now, don’t get me wrong, there are some impressive restaurants in Gdansk, including places like The Lobster House, but I wasn’t looking for luxury seafood. I wanted the kind of place where locals go for a good meal after work, where the fish speaks for itself, and the cooking doesn’t get in the way.
That is always my test when travelling: look around, watch where the locals are eating, and follow them.
Weather
I recommend visiting between June and September.
Month High / Low(°C)
January 1° / -3°
February 2° / -3°
March 6° / 0°
April 12° / 4°
May 17° / 9°
June 21° / 13°
July 23° / 15°
August 23° / 15°
September 18° / 11°
October 12° / 6°
November 7° / 2°
December 3° / -1°
Searching Beyond the Tourist Streets
After wandering around the main heart of the city, I headed down towards the riverside, keeping an eye on who was sitting in the restaurants. It is a simple trick, but it works. If local people are filling the tables, chances are you are onto something.
I then left the busiest riverfront areas and walked away from the main tourist routes. Almost immediately, the atmosphere changed. The streets became quieter, the restaurants felt more relaxed, and there were locals enjoying coffee, beer and brunch under the outdoor awnings.
Quite by chance, I came across Rybakowka and another nearby restaurant with a very similar name. It was slightly confusing because the menus were almost identical apart from a few dishes, although apparently they are completely separate businesses.
This was exactly the sort of place I had been hoping to find.
It was early and not particularly busy, but the customers inside were mostly locals. That was enough of a recommendation for me. I headed upstairs and found a table where six people were enjoying beers and sharing small plates — always a good sign.
The owners were clearly proud of their menu, and I liked the fact that it was straightforward. No endless descriptions trying to make simple food sound complicated. Just good ingredients, trusted suppliers and traditional cooking.
They even highlighted that much of their fish comes from local ponds, which tells you a lot about the Polish approach to seafood. It is not just about what comes from the sea; it is about using what the landscape provides.
A Baltic Seafood Feast: Cod Liver and Zander
The menu was exactly what I wanted. Starters included several herring dishes, salmon options, sturgeon caviar and a sharing board of preserved fish, bread and butter.
But one dish immediately caught my attention: cod liver in its own oil with bread.
This was one of the main reasons I had come.
I also spotted plenty of excellent fish choices for the main course — whole fried turbot, salmon and trout, alongside fried fillets including catfish, halibut, perch and one of my favourites: zander, also known as pike perch.
Zander is an interesting fish in the UK. It is not native and was introduced in the nineteenth century, with anglers encouraged to take caught fish home for the table rather than return them to waterways. Here in the Baltic region, however, zander is a prized food fish and is widely farmed because of its delicate flavour and popularity.
I ordered a local beer, Ksaizece, which I had enjoyed on my previous visit, along with the cod livers, zander and boiled potatoes.
The cod liver arrived — and it was not what I expected.
I was imagining something warm, perhaps sautéed pieces similar in size to chicken livers. Instead, what arrived were thick slices served at room temperature.
Then I tasted it.
And honestly, it was exceptional.
The texture was incredibly soft and creamy, with a delicate richness and just the right amount of salt. This was closer to eating a beautifully prepared foie gras than anything I had ever associated with fish liver. I could barely taste the fish at all.
It was one of those rare food moments when you stop analysing and just enjoy.
I could quite happily have eaten the entire plate of cod liver with some good bread and walked away completely satisfied.
“Gdansk blends Baltic history, honest food and unforgettable coastal flavours beautifully.”
The Simplicity of Perfectly Cooked Fish
The cod liver was already a memorable start, but the main course was still to come. My zander arrived looking almost too simple — a piece of fish, a light coating, boiled potatoes and a little dill. No complicated sauces, no unnecessary decoration, just ingredients allowed to do what they do best.
And that is something I think we sometimes forget in modern cooking. Great food does not always need to be clever. Sometimes the best dishes are the ones where the chef knows exactly when to stop.
The batter was thin rather than heavily crisp, but the fish itself was cooked beautifully. Zander has a wonderful delicate flavour, with fine pearlescent flakes that separate gently as you tease them apart with a fork. The texture was perfect — firm enough to have character but still tender.
A squeeze of lemon, those simple boiled potatoes and a little fresh dill were all it needed.
That lunch will stay with me for a very long time. In fact, when I returned home, I was already thinking about where I could source cod livers and zander because it was that memorable.
This is why I travel for food. Not just to eat something new, but to discover ingredients and techniques that change how you think about cooking. A humble plate of fish can sometimes teach you more than the most elaborate tasting menu.
Gdansk reminded me that food doesn’t have to shout. It just needs to be honest.
My Final Thoughts on Gdansk
Gdansk is a city that rewards curiosity. The grand streets and historic buildings are impressive, but for me, the lasting memory will be that small restaurant away from the crowds, the plate of cod liver and a perfectly cooked piece of zander.
It was a reminder that the finest food experiences are not always expensive or complicated. Sometimes they are found by walking a little further, watching where the locals go and trusting your instincts.
Must See Places
Long Market
The Long Market is the historic centrepiece of Gdansk and one of Poland’s most beautiful urban spaces. Surrounded by colourful merchant houses, cafés and impressive architecture, it is the perfect place to begin exploring the city.
More information: Gdansk official tourism website
Museum of the Second World War
This remarkable museum tells the story of the Second World War from a broad international perspective, with powerful exhibitions and thoughtful displays. It is one of the most important museums in Poland and a must-visit for understanding the city’s history.
More information: Museum of the Second World War official website
Westerplatte
Westerplatte is a significant historical site where the first battle of the Second World War began in 1939. Today it is a peaceful coastal area with monuments, walking routes and views across the Baltic.
More information: Gdansk Westerplatte visitor information
Places to Eat
Rybakowka
Rybakowka is exactly the sort of restaurant I look for when travelling — local, uncomplicated and focused on quality ingredients. The menu celebrates Polish fish traditions, with dishes such as zander, herring and preserved seafood prepared without unnecessary fuss.
- Location: Gdansk, Poland
- Cuisine: Traditional Polish seafood and Baltic fish dishes
- Website: Rybakowka
Fino
Fino offers a more modern take on Polish and European cooking, combining excellent seasonal ingredients with creative techniques. It is a great choice for those wanting a refined meal while still experiencing local flavours.
- Location: Gdansk Old Town, Poland
- Cuisine: Modern Polish and European cuisine
- Website: Fino Restaurant
Kubicki Restaurant
Kubicki is one of Gdansk’s historic restaurants and has been serving guests for generations. Its traditional Polish dishes, riverside atmosphere and long connection with the city make it a memorable place for a classic meal.
- Location: Gdansk waterfront, Poland
- Cuisine: Traditional Polish cuisine and seafood
- Website: Kubicki Restaurant
Inspired Recipes
Some recipes inspired by my brief trip to Gdansk
Baltic-Inspired Cod Liver Toast with Pickled Onion
A luxurious seafood starter celebrating rich cod liver, crisp bread and sharp Baltic flavours.
View RecipePolish-Style Crispy White Fish with Dill Potatoes
A simple Baltic-inspired fish dish with delicate flavours, crisp coating and classic Polish comfort.
View Recipe
