Adventure

Gothenburg

There are certain cities that simply make you feel good the moment you arrive, and Gothenburg is one of them. I’ve revisited this charming Swedish city several times over the past few months and, if anything, each visit has only reinforced my affection for the place. It’s clean, friendly and wonderfully relaxed. Perhaps I’ve been lucky, but the sun always seems to shine when I’m here. In early April it was so warm I found myself dining outdoors, something that felt rather indulgent for Scandinavia.

Swedish Flag Sweden

Discover Gothenburg’s seafood, cafés, attractions and Swedish recipes in this delicious travel guide.

Seafood, Cinnamon Buns and Constant Learning

One place I never miss is Gothenburg’s famous market hall. I’ve written about it before, and it remains one of the city’s great culinary attractions. It’s packed with small cafés, snack bars and artisan food stalls, making it perfect for grazing your way through the day. This time, however, I ventured outside to explore some of the restaurants surrounding the market and discovered another gem.

Hedlunds sits overlooking a small square, and from the moment I arrived, I had a feeling it would be good. The staff were welcoming, the atmosphere relaxed, and the menu refreshingly concise. Sometimes that’s a very good sign indeed.

Montenegro

"Fresh seafood, warm smiles, Nordic charm, learning with every visit."

Gothenburg

Weather

I recommend visiting between June and August.

Month High / Low(°C)

January 2° / -2°

February 3° / -2°

March 6° / 0°

April 11° / 3°

May 17° / 8°

June 20° / 12°

July 22° / 14°

August 21° / 13°

September 17° / 10°

October 12° / 6°

November 7° / 2°

December 4° / 0°

Feskekôrka

Known as the “Fish Church”, this iconic building is one of Gothenburg’s most famous landmarks and a paradise for seafood lovers. Its unique architecture and food culture make it an essential stop.

Website: https://www.goteborg.com/

Haga District

Gothenburg’s oldest neighbourhood is filled with cobbled streets, independent cafés and charming boutiques. It’s the perfect place for a leisurely stroll and a traditional Swedish fika.

Website: https://www.goteborg.com/

Gothenburg Archipelago

A short ferry ride transports you to a collection of beautiful islands offering stunning coastal scenery and walking trails. It’s one of Sweden’s most underrated natural attractions.

Website: https://www.goteborg.com/

Hedlunds

A wonderful local restaurant that focuses on impeccably fresh seafood and classic Swedish dishes. The gravad lax and prawn open sandwiches perfectly showcase the quality of local produce.

Brogyllen

One of Gothenburg’s finest bakeries, serving exceptional pastries, breads and Swedish cakes. Ideal for a traditional fika experience.

Sjömagasinet

A celebrated waterfront seafood restaurant offering refined Nordic cuisine. The emphasis on fresh fish and shellfish makes it a must-visit for food lovers.

Fresh Seafood and a Lesson in Gravad Lax

I settled into a shaded banquette and studied the menu. There were only a handful of savoury options, alongside a crème brûlée for dessert. The fish soup looked tempting, but I eventually chose gravad lax (two words) with potato salad and, naturally, a glass of crisp white wine.

When the food arrived, it looked deceptively simple. Yet this is where Scandinavian cooking often excels. The quality of the ingredients does all the heavy lifting. The gravad lax was beautifully cured, silky soft and almost delicate enough to melt away. Finely chopped red onion, chives and a punchy mustard-dill dressing lifted the fish without overwhelming it.

The potato salad was equally impressive. Proper waxy potatoes, cooked perfectly, cooled correctly and lightly coated in a creamy dressing that had been given time to infuse. It’s a reminder that great cooking isn’t always about complexity. Sometimes it’s about getting the basics absolutely right.

What fascinated me most was how different Scandinavian gravad lax is compared with the version many of us know in Britain. Here, the salmon is lightly cured, occasionally lightly smoked, and retains a texture remarkably similar to sushi. Back home, we’re often taught to cure salmon for 24 hours or more, producing a much firmer result.

After tasting gravad lax across Sweden, Denmark and Finland, I’ve concluded that the Scandinavians have the right approach. After nearly fifty years in kitchens, I’m still learning. As Ray Kroc famously said, “When you’re green you’re growing, when you’re ripe you rot.” Wise words indeed.

Coffee, Pastries and Gothenburg's Bakery Culture

No trip to Gothenburg would be complete without coffee and cake. Sweden practically elevates fika to an art form, and every visit seems to uncover another bakery worth seeking out.

This time it was Brogyllen, a family-run bakery that’s been producing exceptional breads and pastries since 1962. Located near the harbour and a short walk from the famous Fish Church, it’s one of those places that buzzes with activity from the moment the doors open.

The pastry selection is extraordinary. Cinnamon buns, Princess Cake, Semla buns overflowing with cream, chocolate Kladdkaka and countless Danish-inspired creations fill the counters. As regular readers will know, I have a weakness for custard-filled pastries, so I couldn’t resist the Herrgårdsbit.

Essentially a buttery laminated pastry filled with rich vanilla custard, topped with almonds and glazed to perfection, it was everything I hoped it would be. Not overly sweet, wonderfully soft and dangerously moreish. By the time I’d finished my coffee, the tray had been replenished twice, proving I wasn’t the only fan.

That’s what I love about Gothenburg. It combines world-class seafood, excellent baking, friendly people and a relaxed pace of life. Every visit teaches me something new, and every meal reminds me why Scandinavia continues to influence modern cooking around the world.

Inspired Recipes

Some recipes inspired by my brief trip to Gothenburg

Phil's Scandinavian Gravad Lax with Dill Potato Salad

Scandinavian Gravad Lax with Dill Potato Salad inspired by my visit to Gothenburg
Silky Scandinavian gravad lax with creamy dill potatoes, simple, elegant and dinner-party worthy.
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Swedish Cinnamon Buns (Kanelbullar)

Swedish Cinnamon Buns (Kanelbullar) inspired by my visit to Gothenburg
Soft Swedish cinnamon buns with cardamom warmth, perfect for cosy fika and sharing.
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Easy Potato & Ham Hash with Rocket & Apple Salad

I love hash in any form. Normally beef is used, and corned beef at that. Here is a ham version that is both delicious and really easy to make. I use leftover roast potatoes, but any cooked potato will do.
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