Adventure
Gothenburg – Sweden
Like many countries, Sweden has been on my list of places to visit for some time, and Gothenburg is an excellent place to start.
Also on my bucket list are Finland, Japan, Germany and Holland, so it was a double whammy when the opportunity arose. Plus, it had the bonus of only being 2-3 sea days away, and that meant that my cookery demos would be all done and dusted before we hit the first port. Flying home from Helsinki, I ensured I got the last flight, giving me time to explore the city and enjoy a nice coffee and lunch.
Crossing the North Sea was fine, and I slept well. The two demos went smoothly, cooking good old-fashioned dishes such as Duck á l’Orange, crispy French-style onion rings, bubble and squeak, chilli lime mango salad, herbed flatbreads and a fabulous yoghurt, pistachio, honey and roasted red pepper dip.
I recommend visiting Gothenburg in July or August, although any time of year is good to visit the city.
Month High / Low(°C) Rain
January 2° / -2° 10 days
February 3° / -2° 8 days
March 6° / 0° 8 days
April 11° / 3° 8 days
May 17° / 8° 8 days
June 20° / 12° 8 days
July 22° / 14° 9 days
August 21° / 13° 10 days
September 17° / 10° 10 days
October 12° / 6° 11 days
November 7° / 2° 12 days
December 4° / 0° 12 days
It was lovely to see people I have previously sailed with amongst the guests and have a bit of banter and fun. One new guest said, ‘I wasn’t going to come to watch you, but when I told my daughter you were on, she said, Dad, you’ve got to go. In fact, I really enjoyed it!’
The first stop was Gothenburg, and as we gently cruised into the harbour at 6 am, it was a bit cloudy, but the sun poked through. However, as we dock and I make a cuppa, the wind gets up, and it’s a cool 13C. The captain cheerfully tells us it will rain later, but not all day. Showered and ready, I got the shuttle bus for the 30-minute trip to the city centre. The coach is full, and I sit at the back of the bus like I used to when I was at school and chat with a few of the dance troop who are off into town.
Kungsportsavenyen Boulevard
We arrive at Gustav Adolf Square at the top of the new town. From here, there is a magnificent wide Kungsportsavenyen boulevard that stretches down to the old town and is very impressive. Thank goodness the rain had stopped, the wind had died, and the sun was out. I planned to find a coffee shop and researched two places that fit my criteria of simple, local and good-value food where locals eat. Sodra Larm Bar & Bistro looked great with the emphasis on regional dishes such as oysters, salt-baked beets, cured salmon, Bleak Roe with Smetana (a sort of soured thick double cream) and, of course, meatballs. I found it difficult to book, so I went for Fiskbar 17, a cool, laid-back place in the heart of the old town. The good thing was they had lots of space, and you could just rock up.
Seeking a Caffeine Hit
As I wandered down this impressive, clean, yes clean, no litter street, I saw A43 Coffee shop, a small, unassuming, and relatively relaxed. Inside, it was simple, with great coffee and laid-back staff, and the coffee and service were delicious. As I sat and made notes, a father came in with his two young kids and asked if they had a hot chocolate. The server said, ‘Of course, we have five types of hot chocolate. Is it for the kids?’ the man replied, ‘Yes.’ The server suggested a chocolate that was not too bitter for the kids. Very thoughtful. I finish my coffee and walk down to the old town, looking for the famous food market called The Market Hall, Kungstorget. My son Harry suggested it, and he said I’d love it, as he had been with one of his many Swedish girlfriends a few times.
"Gothenburg, situated on the west coast of Sweden, is famous for world class seafood"
Expresso House
It’s not huge, but it is an imposing building in a very cool part of town. Inside, it is full of lovely food and stalls ranging from Korean food to many derivatives of the national food herring to butchers, cured meat specialists’ bakers, and not one candlestick maker!
Outside, fabulous little restaurants lined the outer walls of the market. It was tempting to eat here because the food looked good, simple, local and tasty.
Google Maps informed me that I was only a 3-minute walk from my lunch destination, Fiskbar 17, and was a little early, even though I was starving, having missed breakfast. So, to kill time, I had another coffee at Espresso House. Espresso House is a chain here, as I had passed a few and wasn’t expecting great coffee, if I’m being honest. However, I was pleasantly surprised; it was very good with charming staff.
To one side, an old chap was selling homegrown strawberries and raspberries. I could smell their sweet aroma from several feet away. OMG, the scent was so intense and aromatic that I was desperate to take some back to the ship. Sadly, the old chap only took cash.
A World of Retro Bliss
The area around Fiskbar 17 is remarkable, with retro and vintage clothing shops and excellent kitchen shops. I walk into a small open area between the shops where Fiskbar 17 is, set to the back. Along one side are a couple of food trucks, and on the other side is a seating area where kids run around and parents relax.
As soon as I saw the restaurant, I knew I would like it. It just had that vibe, with a covered area to the front and extra seating to the right, and it was packed. On arriving, you walk up to the counter, order from the small menu, and take a seat. The menu was in Swedish on a chalkboard, as the a la carte was only for the evening service. From my research, I knew they served my favourite oysters and a dish of fish roe with potatoes (the latter only served in the evening). The staff are brilliant, and thank goodness they spent the time explaining the short menu. So, I ordered Six Fine de Claire Oysters, Fish Soup with Rouille and Sourdough.
The oysters are perfect briny but also somewhat sweet and fresh as a daisy. The soup is a delight: a rich, deep-flavoured and oily tomato and parsley base, with a few carrots and potatoes with what I think were chunks of perfectly cooked cod, topped with a thick, pungent aioli. All washed down with an excellent crisp Sauvignon Blanc. I couldn’t fault it, and the sun came out; what a fabulous lunch.
Heading Back
Back to the drop-off place, I took a slightly different route and was really impressed with the city. It’s a fantastic place to be, and it’s no wonder my son likes it.
