Adventure
Gothenburg – Sweden
This was my second visit to Gothenburg, and I was quite fond of the city. I felt very safe here, and it exuded a lovely charm. Like all the places I had visited in Scandinavia, it was spotlessly clean. The only downside to this trip was that I arrived on a Sunday, and nearly all the restaurants I wanted to visit were closed, as were many coffee shops.
Explore Gothenburg’s charm with top attractions, dining experiences, and cultural highlights. Discover what makes this Scandinavian gem so unique.
Weather
I recommend visiting between June and August.
Month High / Low(°C)
January 3° / -2°
February 3° / -2°
March 6° / 0°
April 12° / 3°
May 17° / 8°
June 20° / 12°
July 22° / 14°
August 22° / 14°
September 17° / 10°
October 12° / 76°
November 7° / 43°
December 4° / 0°
Gothenburg Delight: A Sunny Sunday Exploration
The weather, however, was splendid—bright, sunny, dry, and cool. I set off from the main square, Gustav Adolf Torg, and headed down into the main town along the canal. I was on the hunt for a coffee shop called Espresso House. It was pretty much the only one open within walking distance. I stumbled across it by chance, as my Google Maps app was playing up—undoubtedly because I hadn’t turned on my data roaming! I had learned this lesson during a five-week trip to Central America and the Caribbean when I forgot to switch it off and returned to a £450 bill.
A Charming Coffee Break
The café had a warm atmosphere, and the staff were friendly. The display cabinet was filled with delightful treats. My coffee was excellent, though for nearly £7, it ought to be (I’m beginning to sound like my father). As I waited for my coffee, a tray was set down next to me, and I noticed a pot of jam. I couldn’t believe it—it was good old Tiptree, my favourite jam company from Essex. I’ve always used their fabulous products, even now. I use their greengage jam along with raspberry for my Queen of Puddings, their mulberry and blackcurrant jam for steamed puddings, and their Little Scarlet (every tiny strawberry picked by hand) strawberry jam for scones and meringues. I made a trifle on ITV’s This Morning using Little Scarlet the other week.
The coffee was excellent, not bitter, with a slightly sweet, perfumed edge. The milk was perfect. As I sipped, I googled the coffee shop (with Wi-Fi turned on) and discovered it was a chain—a sort of Costa of Scandinavia—with locations in Sweden, Norway, and Finland. Coffee chains sometimes receive criticism, usually not for the standard of coffee but more for their tax practices. Still, I think there’s room for everyone, and it’s a matter of preference.
"Gothenburg's charming cafés and culinary delights made my Sunday memorable."
Lunch by the Canal: Discovering Feskekorka
With free internet access, I finally found a place open for lunch, what appeared to be a modern fish market, a short stroll down by the canal. Feskekôrka was a fabulous-looking building, and I wasn’t sure if it was open. I peered through the glass doors and saw lights on, then wandered around to find people enjoying a late breakfast.
It was spacious and airy, seemingly divided into 5 or 6 small bars and restaurants. I asked the restaurant manager if any of the places served oysters. She laughed and said, “We have LOTS of oysters, come this way,” leading me to Haldi’s Kök, a bar overlooking the canal and a floating bar and restaurant.
Hugo, the young chap serving, was charming and promptly brought sparkling water and a delightful glass of Riesling. I asked if they had any Swedish oysters. He said no, as they were out of season, but he explained in great detail the four French varieties available—he certainly knew his bivalves.
A Cascading Culinary Experience
I ordered 12 oysters, three of each species. Gillardeau had a good flavour, not too sweet and plump. Joséphine oysters were sweeter, slightly larger, and had a good body. Tia Marra offered a clean, acidic taste with a nutty finish (Hugo explained that as spat, baby oysters were grown in French waters and then sent to Ireland to finish growing). Lastly, Chironfill, since about 1879, was cultivated in metal trays to encourage a deep shell. In my excitement, I forgot to take a photograph but managed to capture the empty shells, so you’ll have to trust me.
For my main course, I opted for a buffet, as one should here in Sweden, with 10 herring offerings alongside crackers, a baguette, and warm potatoes. Herring isn’t a fish I generally seek out in the UK, possibly due to the limited variety; typically, they are just over-salted, vinegared rollmops.
I couldn’t manage all ten, so I sampled the crayfish, mustard, and malt whisky, Copenhagen style. Others included onion, fried and pickled, Brantevik, wasabi, West Coast, peppered, and matjes—all served with sieved hard-boiled eggs, chopped chives, and sour cream. Herrings are like sushi; I always feel they’re doing me some good, apart from the sour cream, of course. They were excellent—not too salty, firm, and truly tasty—and I went back for seconds.
If I could get this sort of variety back home, I’d certainly eat more of the humble herring. At £113, it wasn’t cheap, but Scandinavia is renowned for its high prices.
Would I Return to Gothenburg?
Yes, in a heartbeat. The oysters are truly worth the trip to Gothenburg all by themselves.
must see places
Discover the unique charm of Gothenburg through these fascinating attractions:
Gustav Adolf Torg
A central square in Gothenburg, it is a vibrant meeting point surrounded by beautiful architecture and bustling shops.
Website: https://www.goteborg.com/
Feskekôrka
A fish market is housed in a striking church-like building. It’s a culinary paradise for seafood enthusiasts, offering fresh fish and local delicacies.
Website: https://www.feskekorka.se
Liseberg Amusement Park
One of Scandinavia’s most popular amusement parks, featuring thrilling rides, family attractions, and beautiful gardens.
Places to Eat
Savour the culinary gems of Gothenburg with these must-visit restaurants:
Haldi’s Kök
Offers a delightful selection of fresh oysters and fish dishes, set in a picturesque canal-side setting with impeccable service.
Website: https://www.feskekorka.se
Magasinet
This restaurant is known for traditional Swedish fare with a modern twist. It offers a cosy atmosphere and locally sourced, sustainable ingredients.
Website: https://kafemagasinet.se
Skanshof
A lively eatery known for its fresh fish and relaxed vibe, perfect for a casual yet memorable dining experience.
Website: https://skanshof.se
Inspired Recipes
Some recipes inspired by my brief trip to Gothenburg , Sweden
Simple Pacific Cod Stock with Green Herbs
If you are looking for a delicious, light, healthy meal, then look no further. The deep flavour comes from the use of both chicken and fish stock, finished with plenty of fragrant herbs and extra virgin olive oil.
View RecipeSmoked Salmon & Pickled Beetroot with Soft Boiled Eggs & Celery Salt
I have no problem using jarred pickled beetroots, and in fact, I adore them. Of course, you can pickle your own, as my dad and wife do, but to be honest, they taste almost the same once they've been doused in vinegar for three months.
View Recipe
