Adventure
Gran Canaria: Rustic Tapas, Strong Coffee
I’ll be perfectly honest, before stepping off the ship in Gran Canaria, I wasn’t entirely sure what to expect. Gran Canaria tends to divide opinion rather neatly into two camps. You’ve got the devoted regulars who flock back every winter for sunshine, seafood and sangria, and then there are those who dismiss it entirely without ever setting foot there. Rather unfair really, because after a short stay in Las Palmas, I found myself quietly warming to the place.

Explore Gran Canaria’s best food, beaches and attractions with rustic recipes and local dining discoveries.
Weather
I recommend visiting between June and August.
January 21° / 15°
February 21° / 15°
March 22° / 16°
April 23° / 17°
May 24° / 18°
June 26° / 20°
July 28° / 22°
August 29° / 23°
September 28° / 22°
October 27° / 21°
November 24° / 18°
December 22° / 16°
Saga had booked me onto a Canaries cruise in January, and while many passengers were rushing off on organised excursions into the hills, I had my priorities sorted: coffee, local food and a good wander about. Frankly, if you can discover the soul of a place through lunch, then I’m your man.
Las Palmas surprised me immediately. The cruise terminal sits conveniently close to Las Canteras beach, meaning you can simply stroll straight into town without the usual battle through industrial ports and coach parks. Now, I won’t pretend the main promenade is flawless. There’s the standard collection of tourist tat, bars selling questionable cocktails in luminous buckets, and menus featuring photographs of food that should, frankly, come with a warning. But look beyond that and Gran Canaria starts to reveal itself properly.

“Sunshine, seafood, rustic flavours and warm smiles create unforgettable island memories.”
Discovering the Real Las Palmas
The beach itself at Las Canteras Beach is rather lovely. Golden sand, rolling Atlantic waves and locals actually enjoying themselves instead of aggressively queueing for breakfast buffets. Always a good sign.
I wandered down towards La Puntilla, where the newer part of town slowly melts into the older quarter. Tucked away on a quiet side street sat Bar La Puntilla, a tiny café-bar I’d scribbled down in my notes beforehand.
Now, from the outside, you’d walk straight past it. It looked gloriously scruffy. Plastic tables, faded signage, slightly chaotic atmosphere — precisely the sort of place I tend to trust more than polished tourist restaurants charging €18 for frozen paella.
Inside, I was met with two blackboards featuring handwritten Spanish so illegible it may as well have been ancient hieroglyphics. Still, I spotted “salpicón”, and that was enough for me. A smiling older lady emerged from the kitchen, speaking no English whatsoever, which frankly reassured me even more. She handed me a small fried cheese fritter wrapped in a napkin while I waited.
Good grief.
The thing was sensational. Crisp outside, molten cheese inside, rich but oddly delicate. One bite and both of us were grinning like idiots. Food really does bypass language entirely when it’s done properly.
Rustic Food Done Properly
My lunch arrived in stages, all utterly unfussy and utterly superb.
First came a terracotta dish of chorizo and pork, gently braised in a rich tomato broth thick with paprika and pork fat. This wasn’t refined dining — thank heavens — it was honest cooking with flavour at the forefront.
Then came the famous Canarian black potatoes, or papas arrugadas, their wrinkled skins crusted with salt from the cooking brine. Served simply with mojo sauce, they were magnificent. No foam, no tweezers, no edible flowers balancing precariously on top pretending to improve things.
The salpicón itself was wonderfully fresh: tender fish, onions, peppers and tomatoes swimming in excellent olive oil. Add crusty bread and a very good coffee, and frankly, I couldn’t have been happier.
The whole lot came to about €15. Astonishing value considering the quality. As I paid, the lovely older lady offered me cake. I politely declined, pointing at my increasingly distended stomach. She laughed, pointed at hers and shrugged. Brilliant.
Gran Canaria taught me a useful reminder: never judge a destination — or a restaurant — too quickly. Beneath the tourist gloss lies proper cooking, warm people and moments of genuine charm if you’re willing to look for them.
Must See Places
Las Canteras Beach
Las Canteras Beach is one of the finest urban beaches in Europe, perfect for swimming, walking and people-watching. The promenade is packed with cafés and local life.
Website: Las Canteras Beach
Vegueta Old Town
Vegueta offers cobbled streets, colonial architecture and superb tapas bars. It’s the historic heart of Las Palmas and wonderfully atmospheric in the evenings.
Website: Vegueta Guide
Roque Nublo
Roque Nublo is Gran Canaria’s dramatic volcanic rock formation surrounded by breathtaking mountain scenery. The hike up is manageable and the views are spectacular.
Website: Roque Nublo
Places to Eat
Bar La Puntilla
A wonderfully rustic local spot serving traditional Canarian dishes without any fuss or pretension. The salpicón and cheese fritters are exceptional.
- Location: Las Palmas, Gran Canaria
- Cuisine: Canarian, Tapas, Seafood
- Website: Bar La Puntilla
Deliciosa Marta
One of Las Palmas’ finest restaurants, offering refined Spanish cooking with excellent local ingredients. Their seafood dishes and tasting menus are particularly impressive.
- Location: Las Palmas, Gran Canaria
- Cuisine: Spanish, Contemporary
- Website: Deliciosa Marta
Casa Montesdeoca
Hidden away in the old town, this charming restaurant serves traditional Canarian cuisine in a beautiful historic courtyard. The slow-cooked meats and local wines are superb.
- Location: Vegueta, Las Palmas
- Cuisine: Canarian, Spanish
- Website: Casa Montesdeoca
Inspired Recipes
Some recipes inspired by my brief trip to Gran Canaria
Papas Arrugadas with Mojo Rojo

Chorizo and Pork Canarian Stew

Rustic Tomato Bread & Padrón Peppers
