Adventure
Helsinki – Finland
Helsinki Adventure: A Year Later
I visited Helsinki about a year ago (read about my previous Helsinki adventure) and couldn’t believe how quickly the year had passed. I was eager to return. Just like the previous year, we arrived early at the port. It was pretty grey and rather chilly, and I was glad I had packed a fleece. I had researched a new place for coffee and lunch, but initially struggled. Finding a restaurant that is authentic to the city and country, not Michelin-recommended, and open for lunch proved challenging.
Explore Helsinki with Phil, top attractions, local dining experiences, and hidden gems. Discover the best this vibrant city has to offer!
Weather
I recommend visiting between July and August.
Month High / Low(°C)
January -1° / -7°
February -2° / -7°
March 2° / -4°
April 8° / 1°
May 15° / 7°
June 19° / 11°
July 22° / 14°
August 20° / 13°
September 15° / 9°
October 9° / 4°
November 4° / 0°
December 1° / -4°
Exploring Vanha Kauppahalli Market
I enjoyed visiting the Vanha Kauppahalli market right on the quay. It was so cool with its beautiful wooden stalls, cafes, and shops selling everything from salmon in various forms to Finnish caviar and bear salami. The place was packed by late morning, and I chatted with an English couple who had just tried caviar for the first time. They loved the creaminess of the Beluga, and no wonder—it’s the best, in my opinion.
Stepping outside, I wandered around the back of the quay where a few covered stalls were set up. Some sold skins, antlers, and cured meat products from reindeer. Others offered “fast food” interpretations of international cuisines. I only saw one stall serving local food: two large sides of salmon with crispy skin, a few potatoes, and some creamy dressings. It did look very appetising. I headed halfway up the boulevard opposite the quay and turned right, leading to another large square with trams circulating.
On the corner stood the coffee shop I had earmarked—Roasberg. It was set in a beautiful building with plenty of outdoor seating. Inside, it had a laid-back vibe with sanded tables and posters and was bustling with locals, always a good sign. I ordered a cappuccino and relaxed at a table overlooking the square. The coffee was excellent, and the staff were classy, but I still needed a place for lunch
Stepping outside, I wandered around the back of the quay where a few covered stalls were set up. Some sold skins, antlers, and cured meat products from reindeer. Others offered “fast food” interpretations of international cuisines. I only saw one stall serving local food: two large sides of salmon with crispy skin, a few potatoes, and some creamy dressings. It did look very appetising. I headed halfway up the boulevard opposite the quay and turned right, leading to another large square with trams circulating.
On the corner stood the coffee shop I had earmarked—Roasberg. It was set in a beautiful building with plenty of outdoor seating. Inside, it had a laid-back vibe with sanded tables and posters and was bustling with locals, always a good sign. I ordered a cappuccino and relaxed at a table overlooking the square. The coffee was excellent, and the staff were classy, but I still needed a place for lunch
A Quest for the Perfect Lunch Spot
I found a few potential places, but the menus didn’t quite appeal to me. I checked the menu at Fisken på Disken, where I dined last year (see blog). It looked promising, featuring Arctic Char, one of my favourite fish. After finishing my coffee, I set out to find a restaurant that met my criteria, which was only a 12-minute walk away. As I walked, I noticed how clean Scandinavian cities always were. There was not a piece of rubbish, squashed coffee carton, discarded burger box, or cigarette butt in sight—remarkable. The sun was now out, and it was getting warmer, but still a bit chilly. I reached the restaurant only to find one half closed and the other half empty, dark, and entirely uninviting.
The menu was on display, but unfortunately, it was not for me. I was done with emulsions, spumes, foams, and Japanese charcoal-grilled dishes, not to mention the fuss of tweezers and micro everything.
So, after a quick check on Google Maps, I decided to return to Fisken på Disken. It was only 14 minutes away. I had forgotten it was on the 5th floor of a shopping centre, but I quickly remembered as I entered the square and saw the store above the underground station.
The menu was on display, but unfortunately, it was not for me. I was done with emulsions, spumes, foams, and Japanese charcoal-grilled dishes, not to mention the fuss of tweezers and micro everything.
So, after a quick check on Google Maps, I decided to return to Fisken på Disken. It was only 14 minutes away. I had forgotten it was on the 5th floor of a shopping centre, but I quickly remembered as I entered the square and saw the store above the underground station.
"Helsinki offers delectable food and unforgettable experiences year-round."
Delicious Dining at Fisken pa Disken
Upon arrival, I was greeted by the same girl who served me last year. The menu looked great—oysters were still available, as they had been the previous year. I ended up ordering Arctic Char Confit with Sprout Salad and Miso.
I chose the Mustard Gratinated Cod with Black Salsify and Buttermilk Sauce for my main course. Bread, water, and Chardonnay accompanied my meal. The bread was exceptional, served with a swathe of whipped butter and a sprinkle of sea salt, which I appreciated.
My warm char arrived, set in a deep bowl topped with what I thought was char caviar. The flesh was meltingly soft and full of flavour. The miso sauce was creamy and not overly salty, accompanied by a beautiful green olive oil. The sprouting seeds were dressed and seasoned to perfection. The cod was cured, mustard-topped, and grilled flawlessly—a surprise for me as I’m usually not a cod fan.
The sauce, a mix of salsify and buttermilk, was served cold, seasoned with grain mustard. The roasted salsify and puree were delicious, and the crispy salsify shards were sensationally fresh. The only slight letdown was the broccoli, which was undercooked, nearly raw.
I chose the Mustard Gratinated Cod with Black Salsify and Buttermilk Sauce for my main course. Bread, water, and Chardonnay accompanied my meal. The bread was exceptional, served with a swathe of whipped butter and a sprinkle of sea salt, which I appreciated.
My warm char arrived, set in a deep bowl topped with what I thought was char caviar. The flesh was meltingly soft and full of flavour. The miso sauce was creamy and not overly salty, accompanied by a beautiful green olive oil. The sprouting seeds were dressed and seasoned to perfection. The cod was cured, mustard-topped, and grilled flawlessly—a surprise for me as I’m usually not a cod fan.
The sauce, a mix of salsify and buttermilk, was served cold, seasoned with grain mustard. The roasted salsify and puree were delicious, and the crispy salsify shards were sensationally fresh. The only slight letdown was the broccoli, which was undercooked, nearly raw.
A Dessert Worth Waiting For
Dessert was a pavlova with coconut cream sauce and mango filling. While not a genuine Pavlova—Neil Perry serves those in Australia—it was a delightful meringue with a not-too-sweet filling and a creamy sauce. Finished with a touch of fresh lime and saffron strands, it was very well executed. What a lovely place, and what a delightful lunch once more.
must see places
Helsinki offers a variety of unforgettable attractions. Here are the top spots to explore:
Vanha Kauppahalli Market
Located by the quay, this historic market offers a charming mix of wooden stalls, cafes, and shops, offering everything from Finnish caviar to local salami.
Website: https://vanhakauppahalli.fi/en/
Helsinki Cathedral
An iconic landmark towering over the city with its striking white facade and green dome, it is a must-visit for history and architecture enthusiasts.
Website: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Helsinki_Cathedral
Suomenlinna Fortress
A UNESCO World Heritage site, this sea fortress provides a journey through history with stunning coastal views and a fascinating insight into Finland’s past.
Website: https://suomenlinna.fi/en/
Places to Eat
Delight in Helsinki’s vibrant culinary scene at these must-visit restaurants:
Roasberg
A relaxed coffee shop with a laid-back vibe, popular with locals, offering quality coffee and a friendly atmosphere in a prime location.
Website: https://roasberg.fi
Fisken på Disken
Located on the fifth floor of a shopping centre, this spot serves exquisite seafood dishes including Arctic Char and Mustard Gratinated Cod.
Website: https://www.fisken.fi/en/fisken-pa-disken/
Lappi Ravintola
Experience authentic Finnish cuisine with traditional Lapland dishes—a true taste of Finland’s culinary heritage in a cosy, inviting setting.
Website: https://lappires.com
Inspired Recipes
Some recipes inspired by my brief trip to Helsinki, Finland.
Frozen blueberry tart
If you want this tart to have a deep colour and flavour, it’s essential to use frozen blueberries – you don’t get the same result from pureed fresh berries. Blackberries, raspberries and blackcurrants are also far nicer when defrosted from frozen, not only in colour but also flavour. When defrosting, the cells of the fruit break down and you get a superb, dark-coloured juice. So here is a light flan that looks stunning once cooked.
View Recipe
Mother's Day Breakfast with a Twist
What every Mum deserves is a great way to start the day. Forget greasy fry-ups; this is a beautifully light alternative. Any bread will do, but rye gives a nutty edge.
View Recipe