Adventure
Kotor, Montenegro
I’ll admit it, Kotor rather caught me off guard. A friend had been banging on about it for years, saying it was one of the loveliest places in the Balkans to visit and even live. I nodded politely, as you do, but never really imagined I’d end up there myself. Then suddenly, there I was, tucked beneath towering limestone mountains with a warm Adriatic breeze in my face and a serious appetite brewing.
Kotor Montenegro Travel Blog: Best Restaurants, Attractions and Local Recipes
Weather
I recommend visiting between June and August.
Month High / Low(°C)
January 12° / 5°
February 13° / 6°
March 15° / 8°
April 18° / 11°
May 23° / 15°
June 27° / 19°
July 31° / 22°
August 31° / 22°
September 27° / 18°
October 22° / 14°
November 17° / 10°
December 13° / 6°
Seafood, Stone Walls and Serious Charm
Now, many travellers head straight to Dubrovnik, and fair enough, it’s stunning. But Kotor? Kotor has something quieter, gentler and far less showy. It’s smaller, less frantic and still feels wonderfully authentic. You can wander the fortified old town in under an hour, yet every twisting alleyway seems to reveal another hidden square, old church or café with locals chatting over coffee.
The old town itself feels like a film set. Ancient stone walls climb dramatically into the mountains above, reminding you this place was once an almost impregnable stronghold. It’s charming without trying too hard, and frankly, that’s rare these days.
Lunch in the Old Town
After a leisurely wander, I found myself at Konoba Scala Santa, tucked into a lovely courtyard. A large table of locals — including what looked suspiciously like police officers, businessmen and perhaps one or two proper hard cases — were demolishing plates of cuttlefish risotto and pasta. That’s always the sign, isn’t it? If locals eat there, you’re onto something.
“Ancient walls, sparkling bays, superb seafood, peaceful charm and warm hospitality.”
Tucking in with Gusto
Bread arrived with gloriously peppery olive oil, deep green and fragrant enough to make you want to drink it. I started with fish soup, which turned out to be more of a delicate consommé with tiny flakes of impeccably fresh fish. Light, elegant and exactly the sort of thing you want before grilled squid.
The squid itself was superb. Tender, sweet and kissed by garlic oil, served with Dalmatian chard and potatoes. Proper honest cooking. A local cat sat hopefully nearby waiting for scraps, but frankly, he had no chance — it was far too good to share.
Then came Kotor’s famous pastry, Kotorska Krempita. Think custard slice without the sickly icing, creamier and richer. Crisp pastry, thick filling and absolutely impossible to resist.
And the bill? About £28 without service charge. Refreshing indeed.
Must See Places
Kotor Old Town
A UNESCO-listed maze of medieval streets, churches and hidden squares bursting with atmosphere. It’s compact enough to explore in an afternoon but endlessly photogenic.
More information: Kotor Tourism Organisation
San Giovanni Fortress
The climb is steep and sweaty, but the panoramic views over the Bay of Kotor are utterly breathtaking. Go early morning or late afternoon unless you enjoy roasting gently in the sun.
San Giovanni Fortress
Our Lady of the Rocks
A tiny man-made island near Perast with a beautiful blue-domed church and fascinating maritime history. The boat trip across the bay alone is worth doing.
Wikipedia: Our Lady of the Rocks
Places to Eat
Konoba Scala Santa
A wonderfully traditional seafood restaurant hidden inside the old town walls. The fish soup and grilled squid alone are worth the trip.
- Location: Old Town, Kotor
- Cuisine: Montenegrin Seafood & Mediterranean
- Website: Konoba Scala Santa
Galion
Perched right on the water with spectacular bay views, this is the place for a long seafood lunch and a bottle of local wine. Elegant without being pretentious.
- Location: Škaljari, Kotor
- Cuisine: Fine Dining Seafood & Mediterranean
- Website: Galion Restaurant
Tanjga Family Restaurant
A favourite for hearty Balkan grilled meats and astonishingly generous portions. No frills, just seriously good cooking.
- Location: Near Kotor Old Town
- Cuisine: Balkan Grill & Barbecue
- Website: Tanjga Family Restaurant
Inspired Recipes
Some recipes inspired by my brief trip to Montenegro
Blueberry and Passion Fruit Cheesecake
Indulge in this no-bake cheesecake: buttery shortbread base, luscious lemon mascarpone, hidden blueberry centre, vibrant passion fruit finish.
View RecipeGrilled Squid with Garlic Oil and Chard
Smoky grilled squid with garlicky olive oil, zesty lemon, and hearty chard potatoes – irresistibly delicious!
View RecipeMy Adriatic Fish Soup
Adriatic fish soup, known locally as Riblja Čorba, is a light, savoury, and often tomato-based broth rich with white fish chunks, garlic, rice, and olive oil, serving as a staple, healthy dish in Kotor, Montenegro.
View Recipe