Adventure
Kusadasi
I have only been to Turkey a couple of times, once to make a film on Turkish delight, or Lokum as it’s called in Istanbul, back in 2004, and then on a fabulous holiday on a gullet with the kids when they were little. So, when this trip came up, I just had to do it.
I have to say that my knowledge of Turkish food is embarrassingly limited. Apart from the ubiquitous shish kebab, and a dish called Iman Bayaldi, I cooked in the late seventies, that was it.
A good friend of mine has always loved the food and spent a long time researching its origins and telling me how good it was with all its influences from the Ottoman Empire spanning millennia. So, when I arrived at my first destination of three, Kuşadasi, I was expecting great things.
Discover Kuşadasi, Turkey, where rich history meets vibrant culinary experiences. From exploring ancient Ephesus to dining at cosy seafood restaurants and engaging in local bazaars, this travel guide covers everything you need to know for your visit, including nature trails at Dilek National Park and breathtaking views at Pigeon Island.”
Weather
I recommend visiting Kusadasi any time; however, the best time is between May and July.
Month High / Low (°C)
January 14° / 7°
February 16° / 9°
March 18° / 10°
April 22° / 14°
May 26° / 18°
June 30° / 22°
July 33° / 24°
August 33° / 24°
September 29° / 21°
October 25° / 16°
November 20° / 12°
December 6° / 9°
Always with the Coffee
First, of course, I had a good coffee, and after doing some research, I found The Hand Coffee Shop, a rather smart-looking place that is clean and offers a good view across the harbour. Today happens to be Children’s Day, a festival filled with singing, dancing, and merriment. The harbour and promenade are filled with kids all dressed up, many in t-shirts featuring the country’s leader emblazoned all over. Apparently, this festival will also serve as a precursor to the elections in a few weeks. All of this seems a bit pointless since his only real opponent is in prison.
Haggling is a Way of Life
Oh well, after a good coffee, banana cake and a chocolate cookie, I set off to explore. The main road down the harbour and beach is rather nice, but as you walk back a few streets into the bazaar, things get a little more fraught.
They call it aggressive haggling here, and every shop or stall keeper will be straight in your face, trying to sell you anything they can. It can be rather intimidating if you’re not ready for it, but you have to be firm, politely say no, and move on. I would say 99% of the goods on sale are fake. Four watch shops I walked past proudly have signs saying The Genuine Fake Watch Shop. In the end, I found it rather amusing. I was searching for the local fish market, something that I love to do, as you know from reading many of my blogs.
Fishing for Lunch
Back towards the harbour, I finally found a small, covered area with probably 8 or 10 fish stalls. They sell the same fish, which looked stunningly fresh and nicely laid out.
I wander in and have a good look. I’ve always found that if you engage people, chat, and ask if you can take a photo, most are happy to oblige. I soon chatted with Erkan, a smiling, happy chap who explained all the fish to me. It’s impressive, and I can smell the freshness if that makes sense. If you look closely, a lot of the fish have their gills exposed; they are bright red and are the clearest sign of freshness. He also told me that if I buy his fish, his friend across the neighbouring restaurant will cook it for me. We have a good look and then decide on a few prawns, some smaller squid and a nice black bream. The boss, Kazim, swiftly cleans all the fish as we pay; it works out to about €18.
"A day of doubt turned into unforgettable memories thanks to warm people, the sea, and sharing good food."
Will I See My Fish Again
We then walked across to the Naz Balik restaurant and met the boss, who greeted us and sat us down. I must admit I was a bit sceptical, and after the bazaar experience, I thought I would never see my fish again and that it would be swapped- how cynical of me! My fears were allayed when the boss took me into the small, spotless kitchen, where my prawns were already being sautéed with lots of garlic and a dusting of paprika. The squid, now in chunky rings, was also deep-frying. The bream was seasoned, oiled, and placed on a large grill. I walked back to the table past the cold starter fridges. There was a staggering selection of mezze starters; 35 choices were beautifully presented and as fresh as a daisy.
Back at the table, I order fava puree (broad beans), thick Turkish yoghurt with the freshest purslane, and yoghurt again with small hot chilli peppers, walnuts, and paprika oil. Fresh, crusty bread rounds off the start of the meal.
must see places
Ancient City of Ephesus:
Explore the well-preserved ruins of this ancient Greco-Roman city, including the Library of Celsus, the Great Theatre, and the Temple of Artemis. It’s a significant historical site and a must-see for history enthusiasts.
Wiki link: Ephesus
Dilek National Park:
Experience the natural beauty of this park, featuring diverse flora and fauna, a stunning coastline, and the opportunity to enjoy various outdoor activities such as hiking and birdwatching.
Wiki link: Menderes Delta National Park
Pigeon Island:
This iconic islet, also known as Bird Island, symbolises Kuşadasi and offers panoramic views of the city and the Aegean Sea. The museum inside the old Byzantine Castle is also open.
Wiki link: Vercinada
Where to eat
Kule Seafood Restaurant
This is for guests who would like to enjoy seafood paired with both local and well-known wine varieties. Experience traditional Turkish raki and fish culture through a wide selection of Turkish cold appetisers (meze).
Erzincan Restaurant
Established in 1997 and located in the old town area, it provides an exceptional cultural experience for all guests. With excellent service and a warm, friendly atmosphere, Erzincan’s has quickly become a favourite among locals by consistently offering the culinary delights of Kusanagi’s best authentic Turkish foods. It is just two minutes from the Harbour and the sea, and a minute away from the Castle Gate and Bars Street.
Weblink: https://www.erzincanrestaurant.com
Murphy’s Bar & Restaurant
In the heart of Kuşadasi, near the port and surrounded by many shops. You can make a night of it; They will pick you up so you can enjoy a meal and then stay to drink to your heart’s content while enjoying the music and entertainment, because they will take you back to your hotel at the end of the night. With karaoke, live sports, and music all night, the staff will even dance for you, and you are welcome to join in.
Superb Seafood
The prawns are succulent and tight, meaning they are so fresh. The squid is delicate and not chewy at all, with the lightest flour coating. The best part is the tentacles. The whole bream is crispy and slightly overcooked, but it is acceptable to some degree due to its freshness and juiciness. All that was needed was a squeeze of lemon and a bit more salt and pepper—local wine pairs wonderfully with this lovely lunch.
Erkan appears again and beckons us back to the fish market, where he sits us down and serves us Turkish tea. We chat about his family and his job. He loves his life; being content and enjoying great food makes him very happy.
I bid farewell and stroll back around the harbour to Pigeon Island, a small outcrop near the ship, steering clear of the markets and bazaars.
That evening, I returned to the restaurant, but only for a snack, as I was pretty much full from lunch.
My man brings a small selection of cold starters that I haven’t tried, so this time, I sampled fava with red onion and olive oil, a kind of Iman Bayildi aubergine (see recipe), cooked prawns, cucumber, and a cooked cabbage salad with green onions and herbs. Turkish tea washes it all down nicely.
I must say I wasn’t very impressed at the start of the day, but in the end, it turned out to be a day I will never forget. Really nice people, simple, tasty food, and great coffee and tea.
Inspired Recipes
Some recipes inspired by my brief trip to Kusadasi, Turkey
Phil's Spicy Kebabs
Spicy kebabs are full of bold flavours that excite the taste buds and bring people together. Whether you enjoy them as a snack or part of a hearty meal, my spicy kebabs are always a treat.
View RecipeTurkish Roasted Vegetables with Thick Yoghurt
The key to this dish is to roast the vegetables in batches. If you roast all at once, the temperature in the oven will drop, and the vegetables will sweat and not roast correctly. The sauce must be thick enough to coat the vegetables, but not too thick.
This dish is best left overnight and re-warmed. It is great as a starter or a main course. If I’d had vegetable dishes like this as a child, it would have been fantastic.
View RecipeMy Aubergines Imam Bayildi
Aubergines Imam Bayildi is a classic Turkish dish featuring aubergines (eggplants) stuffed with a flavourful mixture of onions, garlic, tomatoes, and spices.
View Recipe