Adventure
La Spezia, Italy
Pesto, Oysters and the Flavours of Liguria
I wasn’t quite sure what to expect when I first arrived in La Spezia. In my head I had imagined an industrial Italian port dominated by ships, cranes and the Italian Navy. And, yes, there is a rather large naval presence, but scratch beneath the surface and La Spezia is a surprisingly attractive place, with a lovely waterfront, a busy market and some seriously good food.
Discover La Spezia’s best food, restaurants and sights, with authentic Ligurian recipes for pesto pasta and farinata.
The promenade is a great place to start. Sit with a coffee and watch ferries, cruise ships and little fishing boats coming and going. Then head into the market, where you’ll find fruit, vegetables, cured meats, cheeses and a superb fish selection. Oddly, fresh meat requires a little more hunting.
Weather
I recommend visiting from May to September.
Month High / Low(°C)
January 9° / 5°
February 9° / 5°
March 12° / 8°
April 16° / 10°
May 19° / 13°
June 23° / 16°
July 26° / 19°
August 26° / 19°
September 23° / 15°
October 19° / 12°
November 14° / 8°
December 11° / 6°
Coffee, markets and a little Ligurian history
Naturally, I needed coffee. Caffè Cavour, opposite the market, was just the ticket: good coffee, excellent pastries and bread, friendly staff and two coffees with a pastry for around €6. That’s roughly a fiver – which wouldn’t get you far in a certain well-known British coffee chain!
La Spezia is also a brilliant introduction to Ligurian cooking. This is pesto country, home to trofie pasta, focaccia and farinata, that wonderful chickpea pancake that somehow manages to be both incredibly simple and completely addictive.
I went looking for somewhere serving traditional food and found Sempre Amighi, a tiny family restaurant tucked away on a side street. You know those Italian restaurants that claim to have been run by ten generations of Nonna this and Uncle Luigi that? I’m always slightly suspicious of the blurb. On this occasion, though, it seemed genuine.
“La Spezia surprises with pesto, seafood, sunshine and unmistakable Ligurian character.”
Oysters, anchovies and one magnificent plate of pasta
Only a handful of tables, and it was already filling up at lunchtime. Next door was a much larger restaurant decorated with Michelin signs – and virtually empty. Make of that what you will!
We ordered wine and sparkling water, and started with small Spezia oysters and fried anchovies. The oysters were tiny, fresh and wonderfully salty, while the anchovies were lightly coated in fine polenta and served with lemon. There were even fried mussel skewers. Simple food, brilliantly done.
Then came my tagliolini al pesto, the star of the show. The pasta was perfectly cooked, but the pesto stopped me in my tracks. Fresh basil, extra-virgin olive oil, pine nuts and cheese created an aroma and creaminess that were quite extraordinary.
I’ve grown Genovese basil myself, and I can tell you that the variety and quality of the basil make an enormous difference. This plate was one of those dishes you remember.
The bill was about €80 and worth every euro. La Spezia had completely changed my mind. It’s not merely a port – it’s a food town with character, and I’ll certainly be back.
Must See Places
Castle of San Giorgio
Climb up to Castello San Giorgio for the archaeological museum and, just as importantly, the views across the old town. The castle sits on the Poggio hill and incorporates centuries of construction; the terraces are particularly worthwhile.
Naval Technical Museum
Given La Spezia’s naval history, this is a natural stop. The museum contains ship models, maritime artefacts, weapons and exhibits covering centuries of Italian naval history, and is one of the city’s most distinctive attractions.
Morin Promenade
The Passeggiata Morin is where I’d simply slow down and enjoy the waterfront. It’s an easy way to take in the Gulf of La Spezia, watch the boats, and get your bearings before heading off for lunch. The official tourism site lists the Morin Promenade among the city’s attractions.
Places to Eat
Sempre Amighi
This tiny restaurant is exactly the sort of place I enjoy discovering: small, local and apparently more interested in feeding people properly than impressing them. Its menu focuses on Ligurian and seafood specialities, including anchovies, mussels, and pasta, and it currently offers takeaway.
- Location: Via della Canonica 9, La Spezia
- Cuisine: Ligurian, seafood and traditional Italian
- Website: Sempre Amighi
La Pia Centenaria
If you want to try farinata, this is one I’d put high on the list. La Pia has been making traditional pizza and Ligurian farinata since 1887, so the “centenaria” bit isn’t just restaurant marketing fluff.
- Location: Via Magenta 12, La Spezia
- Cuisine: Ligurian pizza and farinata
- Website: La Pia Centenaria
Osteria Ligure
A particularly good choice if you want to explore dishes beyond pesto. Its menu includes mesciua, testaroli, Ligurian rabbit, octopus, fresh fish and, naturally, trofie with pesto.
- Location: Piazza John Fitzgerald Kennedy 42, La Spezia
- Cuisine: Traditional Ligurian
- Website: Osteria Ligure
Inspired Recipes
Some recipes inspired by my brief trip to La Spezia
Ligurian Farinata
Crisp-edged and creamy inside, this humble chickpea pancake is pure Ligurian comfort food.
View RecipeTrofie al Pesto
Fresh basil, pine nuts and Parmesan make this gloriously simple Ligurian pasta utterly irresistible.
View RecipeTruffle-Tartare de Boeuf with Fries
Hand-chopped beef tartare delicately seasoned, topped with truffle, served alongside crisp golden fries for a luxurious and earthy French treat.
View Recipe