Adventure
Lindos, Rhodes
White Villages, Wonderful Food
Greece has thousands of islands, and one of the things I love is that each seems to have its own personality. More importantly for me, they all have their own little twists on food.
Take Greek salad. Tomatoes, cucumber, red onion, olives and feta — simple, surely? Well, not quite. On Santorini you might find sweet cherry tomatoes and capers, while in Crete mizithra can replace feta. The differences may be small, but they are exactly what makes travelling around Greece so interesting.
This time I was heading to Lindos, Rhodes, and I knew I was in for a treat.
Explore Lindos, Rhodes through Greek food, local restaurants, beaches, history and recipes inspired by traditional Rhodian cooking.
Weather
I recommend visiting between May and June.
Month High / Low(°C)
January 15° / 10°
February 15° / 10°
March 17° / 11°
April 20° / 14°
May 24° / 17°
June 28° / 21°
July 31° / 24°
August 31° / 24°
September 29° / 22°
October 25° / 29°
November 20° / 15°
December 17° / 12°
Arriving in Lindos: White Buildings and Blue Water
After an hour or so in a taxi from Rhodes airport, I was dropped at Krana Square, right at the top of Lindos. What a view.
Spread out below me was a sea of brilliant white buildings cascading down the hillside towards Lindos Beach and Pallas Beach. Above everything sits the magnificent Acropolis of Lindos, perched around 116 metres above the village. The ancient Sanctuary of Athena Lindia dates back to around the 4th century BC, while the medieval Castle of the Knights came much later.
The best thing about Lindos, though, is that the main village is wonderfully free of traffic. There are special restrictions on vehicles, leaving the narrow streets to pedestrians, delivery vehicles and the occasional donkey.
I like that.
There is nothing worse than trying to enjoy a beautiful Greek village while constantly dodging taxis.
My first job was obvious: find coffee.
Right in the middle of the village, I settled down at Cafe Giorgos, which turned out to be exactly what I wanted — good coffee, friendly service and an excellent opportunity to people-watch.
I also ordered Greek yoghurt with seasonal fruit. And when I say seasonal fruit, I mean a lot of it. This is Greece in summer; the fruit is everywhere, beautifully ripe and full of flavour.
Breakfast sorted, coffee consumed and feeling considerably healthier than I actually was, I set off to explore.
St Paul's Bay and a Little Greek Romance
Down at the southern end of Lindos is St Paul’s Bay, and it is one of those places that looks almost too perfect.
The bay is surrounded by rocky outcrops and wonderfully clear water, and you can see why people come here to swim, snorkel and generally spend the day doing very little. There is also a small chapel, Agios Pavlos, tucked into the rocks.
While I was there, a British couple were having their wedding ceremony before heading off on a little boat to continue the celebrations.
The beach itself can be busy, and some of the sunbed prices can make you question whether you’ve accidentally wandered into Monaco. But you don’t actually need much here. The bay is the attraction.
And if you’re anything like me, the best thing to do is find a shady spot, order something cold and stare at that water.
Eventually, however, hunger wins.
“Lindos serves sunshine, history, hospitality and seriously good Greek food together.”
The Guns of Navarone and Lunch with a View
A little further along the coast lies Navarone Bay, a name that will mean something very specific to anyone of a certain age.
For me, it immediately brought back memories of The Guns of Navarone, the 1961 film starring Gregory Peck, David Niven and Anthony Quinn. It was one of those films that seemed to be on television constantly when I was growing up.
So naturally, I had to go and have a look.
There were no giant guns waiting for me on the cliffs, sadly, but the scenery was impressive enough. The bay is dominated by steep rocky cliffs and intensely blue water, and it is easy to understand why filmmakers were attracted to the area.
By now I was hungry, and that’s putting it mildly.
Rooftop Dining and Perfectly Cooked Bream
Back in Lindos, I headed for Olympia Restaurant, which had been recommended to me. Like so many restaurants here, it has rooftop seating, and when you have the Acropolis as a backdrop, why wouldn’t you?
There was live bouzouki music drifting across the terrace and the Acropolis standing proudly above the village.
This is what you come to Greece for.
I ordered grilled bream with potatoes, roast courgette, aubergine and peppers. Whole fish is one of my favourite ways to eat fish because there is absolutely nowhere for a chef to hide. Cook it badly and everyone knows about it; cook it properly and it is magnificent.
This was cooked beautifully.
The flesh was moist, delicate and properly seasoned, while the vegetables were exactly what they needed to be — simply cooked and allowed to taste of themselves.
My friend ordered chicken souvlaki with tzatziki and Greek salad, which, in true Rhodes fashion, included green peppers. I had a little taste, obviously, and the chicken thighs were beautifully succulent after their marinade.
We lingered over lunch, wine and conversation until the sun began to drop.
Then came the red moon.
It was spectacular, although the colour was a sobering reminder of wildfires affecting parts of the region. Beautiful things can sometimes carry a slightly uncomfortable reminder of the world beyond your dinner table.
A Proper Greek Taverna in Lardos
The following day I headed to Lardos, just a short taxi ride from Lindos.
I had been told about a traditional taverna there and, as usual, I was more interested in finding somewhere genuinely local than somewhere with a particularly impressive view.
That’s how I ended up at Taverna Periklis.
Petros, the owner, has been running the place for 18 years and clearly has a deep affection for the traditional tavernas of his childhood. He told me how difficult it is increasingly becoming to tempt people away from all-inclusive hotels.
Well, I’m going to say it again: get out of the hotel.
All-inclusive might be convenient, but you could be missing some of the best food on the island.
Lunch was Lamb Kleftiko, and it was one of the best I’ve eaten in more than 40 years of professional cooking. Slow-cooked lamb with rosemary, oregano and cumin, traditionally wrapped and cooked so the meat becomes incredibly tender.
Even the carrots — which aren’t exactly traditional Kleftiko territory — were cooked perfectly.
My friend ordered fried calamari and Greek salad. Unfortunately, he attacked it so quickly that there was barely enough time to take a photograph.
That tells you something.
Would I Return to Lindos?
Absolutely!
If you’re after endless sandy beaches, there are plenty of places in Greece that will do that very well. But if you want great food, excellent wine, ancient history, beautiful scenery and genuinely friendly people, Rhodes — and particularly Lindos — has an awful lot going for it.
What I really enjoyed was the contrast. One minute you’re standing beside an ancient Greek temple, the next you’re eating grilled bream on a rooftop while bouzouki music drifts across the village. Then you can wander down a narrow whitewashed street, swim in crystal-clear water and finish the day with a glass of local wine.
And, as always, the food is better when you get out and find the people who are actually cooking it.
Must See Places
Acropolis of Lindos
This is the big one. Sitting high above the village, the Acropolis combines the ancient Temple of Athena Lindia with layers of Greek, Roman, Byzantine and medieval history — and the views over the coastline are superb.
For visitor information, Visit Rhodes – Acropolis of Lindos is a useful starting point.
St Paul’s Bay
This beautiful natural harbour below Lindos is perfect for a swim, snorkel or simply sitting and admiring the extraordinary colour of the water. The little chapel of Agios Pavlos adds another layer of charm to an already spectacular setting.
Navarone Bay
Film fans should make the journey to Navarone Bay, particularly if, like me, you grew up watching The Guns of Navarone. The imposing coastline is impressive in its own right, even when there isn’t a Hollywood film crew hiding around the corner.
Places to Eat
Olympia Restaurant
A long-established Lindos favourite in the centre of Lindos, Olympia is a good choice when you want traditional Greek cooking in the heart of the village. It combines a lively atmosphere with a broad Greek menu and is particularly handy for people-watching.
- Location: Lindos, Rhodes 85107
- Cuisine: Traditional Greek
- Insta: https://www.instagram.com/olympia_lindos/
AKRES Lindos – fine dining
For something more sophisticated, AKRES takes traditional Rhodian ingredients and gives them a contemporary fine-dining treatment. The restaurant specifically focuses on local culinary traditions and combines seafood and produce from the island in a much more modern way.
- Location: Lindos, Rhodes, Greece
- Cuisine: Modern Greek and Rhodian fine dining
- Website: AKRES Lindos official website
Mystilli Roof Garden Restaurant
Mystilli is the sort of place I would choose when the view matters almost as much as the food. Its roof garden gives you that classic Lindos experience — Greek cooking, warm evenings and the extraordinary Acropolis rising above the whitewashed village.
- Location: Lindos 851 07, Rhodes, Greece
- Cuisine: Greek and Mediterranean
- Insta: https://www.instagram.com/mystilliresto_lindos/
Inspired Recipes
Some recipes inspired by my brief trip to Lindos, Rhodes
Greek Lamb Kleftiko
A slow-cooked Greek classic with meltingly tender lamb, lemon, garlic and fragrant herbs.
View Recipe
Charcoal-Style Greek Pork Skewers
Smoky marinated pork skewers grilled until charred, served with flatbreads, salad, and cool tzatziki.
View Recipe