Adventure
Mahón, Menorca
I return to some places because they have unfinished business with me. Mahón, the capital of Menorca, is one of those places. A year ago I came here expecting a pleasant port, a bit of history and, hopefully, a decent lunch. What I discovered was far more interesting: a town with real character, wonderful produce, and a food culture that rewards a curious cook.
So, back I came.
Discover Mahón, Menorca through its seafood, restaurants, markets, sights and delicious recipes inspired by this beautiful island city.
This time, I arrived to a scorching 37°C, which is rather warm even by my standards. Frankly, it was a perfect day for doing very little apart from finding somewhere shady, ordering something cold and researching lunch. It is, after all, important work.
Mahón sits around one of the world’s great natural harbours, and the first thing that strikes you is how much life revolves around the water. Boats, fishing, restaurants, cafés and little marinas seem to fold themselves around the shoreline. But climb into the old town and another Mahón appears: elegant streets, grand buildings, bakeries, markets and little places where locals stop for coffee.
That mixture is what I like about the place.
Weather
I recommend visiting from May to September.
Month High / Low(°C)
January 14° / 7°
February 14° / 7°
March 16° / 9°
April 18° / 10°
May 22° / 14°
June 26° / 14°
July 29° / 21°
August 29° / 21°
September 26° / 19°
October 23° / 16°
November 18° / 11°
December 16° / 9°
A return to Mahón's old town
On my earlier visit I discovered the Mercado de Pescados, and I still think a food market is one of the best ways to understand a destination. You can read all the guidebooks you like, but show me the fish counter and I’ll tell you what people actually eat.
This time I wandered back into the centre and, naturally, found myself returning to Pigalle. The coffee and staff had been so good on the previous visit that I couldn’t resist. Then I discovered something I hadn’t realised before: just around the corner is the Pigalle bakery.
Ah! Suddenly the excellent bread and pastries I’d encountered previously made perfect sense.
Pigalle’s artisan bakery produces sourdough bread, croissants, brioches, and other baked treats, while its café has become a great stop for coffee and something sweet.
And this is exactly the sort of thing I love about travelling. You turn a corner looking for coffee and discover the bakery supplying half the restaurants.
Then, just opposite, I spotted a restaurant I’d noticed on my previous trip but which had been closed.
This time it was very definitely open.
“Mahón serves sunshine, history, superb seafood and unforgettable island flavours.”
Oysters, smoked eel & a cracking lunch
Oysters Menorca is small, stylish and, from the outside, wonderfully unassuming. I booked ahead because it was high season, and I’m glad I did.
Inside, the staff were immediately welcoming, and I took a seat at the bar overlooking the small kitchen. The concept is pretty clear from the name: oysters, shellfish, caviar and seafood, with oysters arriving from places including Ireland, France, Portugal and the Netherlands. The restaurant describes itself as being built around origin, seasonality and respect for the product.
I ordered six Dutch and six Portuguese oysters, smoked eel, prawns, tuna belly salad and Pigalle bread with smoked butter.
The oysters were shucked right in front of me. You can have them with vinegar, hot sauce or, rather wonderfully, lemon purée.
The Dutch oysters were larger and slightly more acidic; the Portuguese had a creamy texture and a lovely fruity edge. Both were excellent.
Then came the smoked eel.
Served at room temperature, it had just the right amount of natural oiliness. A homemade soy and passionfruit sauce worked beautifully, particularly with the excellent sourdough.
But the salt-cured tuna belly with Spanish RAF tomatoes, capers and mildly hot peppers was the dish that really grabbed me. Sweet, sharp, salty, juicy and just a little bit fiery — that’s my idea of a proper plate of food.
The prawns were briny and sweet, with just enough mayonnaise to bring everything together.
The staff were superb. Efficient, knowledgeable and genuinely friendly.
Was it cheap? No. With a tip, lunch for two came to around £140. But considering the quality of the produce, cooking and service, I thought it was excellent value.
Would I return? Yep, in a flash.
My final taste of Mahón
What I like about Mahón is that it doesn’t have to shout.
It sits there quietly around that magnificent harbour, with its bakeries, fish market, old streets, historic buildings and restaurants. You can spend the morning looking at churches and fortresses, the afternoon eating oysters, and finish the day with a glass of something cold overlooking the water.
And after four decades of travelling, I’ve learned that those are often the places worth returning to.
Mahón has plenty of polished tourism, of course, but scratch beneath the surface and you’ll find something much better: a genuine food culture built around excellent produce and people who care about it.
Would I go back? Absolutely.
In fact, I’m already thinking about lunch.
Must See Places
Mahón is more than a place to eat. In fact, I’d recommend allowing plenty of time to wander rather than rushing from one attraction to another.
Mercado de Pescados
The old fish market remains one of my favourite introductions to Mahón. The seafood tells you immediately what the island values, while the surrounding food stalls and atmosphere make it much more than simply somewhere to buy fish. The wider historic centre is packed with shops, cafés and architecture reflecting Spanish, French and British influences.
Iglesia de Santa María
Don’t be fooled by the relatively restrained exterior. Inside is an enormous 19th-century organ containing 3,006 pipes, and if you can catch one of the organ concerts, even better.
Fortaleza de la Mola
For something completely different, head to La Mola at the entrance to Mahón harbour. This huge 19th-century fortress was built to protect the harbour and offers fascinating insight into Menorca’s military history — plus superb views across the water.
Places to Eat
After two visits, my shortlist has become rather more interesting. These are three places I’d put firmly on a food lover’s Mahón itinerary.
Oysters Menorca
Location: Carrer de Bastió, 7, 07703 Maó, Menorca
Cuisine: Oysters, seafood, caviar and Mediterranean-inspired dishes
Website: Oysters Menorca
This is my standout choice for a special seafood lunch, particularly if you enjoy oysters and beautifully handled raw and cured produce. The combination of international oysters, shellfish, caviar and excellent service makes it quite different from the traditional Menorcan restaurants.
Ses Forquilles
Location: Plaça Bastió 14, Mahón, Menorca
Cuisine: Contemporary Menorcan tapas and Mediterranean cooking
Website: Ses Forquilles
This is the place I’d choose when I wanted to explore modern Menorcan cooking rather than simply eat a large plate of seafood. The group concentrates on quality produce and has built a reputation around combining traditional cooking with more contemporary ideas.
Restaurante Ca’n Nito – Bar La Marina
Location: Moll de Llevant, 15, 07701 Maó, Menorca
Cuisine: Traditional Menorcan seafood, tapas and Mediterranean cooking
Facebook: Ca’n Nito
This is the sort of unpretentious harbourside restaurant I tend to trust. My previous visit produced octopus meatballs, fried sea anemones, snails with crab and grilled monkfish liver — exactly the kind of cooking that makes travelling worthwhile. The restaurant does not appear to have a current standalone website, so I’ve linked its Facebook presence instead.
My previous visit to Mahón
Explore Mahon’s food, markets and sights. Discover authentic Minorcan dishes and the best places to visit in this harbour city.
Inspired Recipes
Some recipes inspired by my brief trip to Mahón
Smoked Eel, Tomato and Caper Toasts
In Spanish, 'Tosta de Anguila Ahumada' is smoky eel, juicy tomatoes and sharp capers, making a gloriously simple Mediterranean lunch or starter.
View RecipeMenorcan-style Prawn, Tomato and Garlic Rice
Juicy prawns, sweet tomatoes and saffron-infused rice bring the sunshine of Mahón straight to your kitchen.
View RecipePhil’s Summer Paella
This is my take on Paella, a traditional Spanish dish that originated in Valencia. Typically it's made with saffron-infused rice, chicken or seafood, and a variety of vegetables like peppers, tomatoes, and peas.
View Recipe