Oslo in Spring

Fiskeriet Youngstorget is set on one side of a large open square. Like a few places I have visited in the Nordic countries (see Scandinavian blogs), Fiskeriet started out as a fish shop, then began simply cooking their fabulously fresh seafood. On my last visit to Oslo, I did get a chance to try Lutefisk, one of Norway’s most famous fish dishes, apparently invented by the Vikings. It’s basically dried, salted cod, ling, pollock, or stockfish, reconstituted in water and lye (birchwood ash) or, these days, sodium hydroxide (caustic soda). This changes the structure of the flesh, taking on a more jelly-like consistency. Weirdly, I rather liked it. The dish is served with mashed potatoes and mushy peas. I was hoping to try again; however, it’s a Christmas dish, as my young server tells me. They do sell a huge amount in the season, though, both fresh and frozen.

Back to my unbooked lunch, I was lucky to get the last table at this small restaurant by the window. The menu is small, featuring fish soup, gravet laks, and snow crab. My server, likely the owner’s daughter, knows the menu well, as shown in our lutefisk chat. I had a glass of Viognier, bread, and 6 Josephine and 6 Boudeuse oysters—no local species here, but I sampled some in Aarhus, Denmark (see blog). Main was cod croquettes with grilled pepper sauce, chipotle mayo, green salad, and some fries. The bread was good—soft with a tang. The oysters were briny, plump, and sweet. The croquettes were crisp, hot, filling, heavier than expected, a bit bland (not a fan of cod’s flavour). Topped with spicy mayo and cheese, the dish improved. This place felt like a genuine local spot.