Adventure
Panama
Canal Views, Street Coffee, and Seafood Worth Crossing Oceans For
Let’s be honest—mention Panama and most people immediately think of the Panama Canal. I certainly did. Probably drilled into me from some dusty geography lesson, along with vague mutterings about ships, trade routes, and heroic engineering. And yes, it’s all true—the canal is a marvel—but if that’s all you think Panama has to offer, you’re missing a trick. A big one.
Discover Panama’s best food, canal views, and recipes in this travel guide.
Weather
I recommend visiting between June and August.
Month High / Low(°C)
January 30° / 24°
February 31° / 24°
March 31° / 25°
April 32° / 25°
May 31° / 25°
June 30° / 25°
July 30° / 24°
August 30° / 24°
September 29° / 24°
October 29° / 24°
November 29° / 24°
December 30° / 24°
A Little History
Recent news will have you know that a certain Mr Trump wants to take them back into ownership. In fact, the USA owned the canal. When the French gave up trying to build it in 1899, they then completed it in 1914 at the estimated cost of 20,000 lives. I did hear from one captain that it costs an average of £300,000 per vessel, depending on size, to sail the 52-mile waterway. Yearly, about 14,000 vessels, you do the math … no wonder old Trumpy is eager. Anyway, I really wanted to have a good look at the end locks outside the town of Colon, but didn’t want to do the touristy tour thing. Anyways, history lesson over.
I arrived on a short stay, expecting to tick off the canal, eat something half-decent, and move on. Instead, I found myself wrapped up in proper food, genuine people, and those little unexpected moments that make travel worthwhile. The sort you can’t plan, even if you tried.
Coffee, Chance Encounters, and a Man Called Jorge
I was wandering through Colón, slightly bleary-eyed and in desperate need of a good coffee. Not the sort that tastes like burnt regret, but something with a bit of life. That’s when I met Jorge.
Now, I’m usually cautious when a taxi driver approaches—years of travel will do that—but there was something about him. Warm, unassuming, not pushy. I asked about coffee, and without hesitation, he said, “Come this way.”
We ducked around a corner to Istmo Coffee Roasters. It was closed. Or at least, it should have been. Jorge tapped on the glass, had a quiet word, and suddenly we were inside with fresh coffee being brewed.
That’s Panama in a nutshell.
The coffee? Light, aromatic, slightly spiced—none of that over-roasted bitterness. Just clean, honest flavour. I bought Jorge a cup, naturally, and we got chatting. Before long, I had a guide, a driver, and, dare I say it, a friend.
“Raw, vibrant, flavour-packed Panama delivers unforgettable food and travel moments.”
The Canal: Big, Bold, and Utterly Mesmerising
Jorge offered to take me to see the canal locks. Not the usual tourist bus nonsense, mind you, but something a bit more personal. We agreed on a fair price, and off we went.
We crossed the Atlantic Bridge—no stopping allowed, apparently, and Jorge wasn’t joking. Police were quick to shoo us along—but not before we’d grabbed a glimpse of the canal stretching out like a ribbon of industry.
Then onto the viewing platform overlooking the locks.
And I’ll tell you this: no matter how many documentaries you’ve seen, nothing prepares you for the scale. A ship—massive, hulking—slid into the lock with the precision of a soufflé rising in a well-calibrated oven. Tugboats nudging it gently into place, water levels shifting, gates opening and closing like clockwork.
Within fifteen minutes, it had dropped down and was on its way again.
It’s engineering, yes—but it’s theatre too.
Next year, fingers crossed, I may have the chance to sail the whole 52 miles. If I do, I’ll write an update. I’m very excited about the prospect.
Lunch, Local Style: No Fuss, Just Flavour
Back in town, Jorge insisted I try Cafe Portobelo, one of his favourites. No menus to pore over, no pretence. He takes me in, orders, and says he’ll be back at 2:30.
Out came prawns. Huge, juicy, cooked perfectly. Alongside them, fried plantain fritters—crispy on the outside, soft and sweet within, and a simple salad. Then, braised octopus with rice and more plantain.
Nothing complicated. No unnecessary garnish. Just honest cooking done well.
That’s something I always say: if your ingredients are good, don’t mess about. Let them shine.
The place was bustling—locals coming and going, chatting, eating. Always a good sign. If the locals are there, you’re in the right place.
Must See Places
Panama Canal
A true marvel of engineering—watching ships navigate the locks is mesmerising. It’s history, industry, and spectacle rolled into one.
🔗 https://visitpanama.com/
Atlantic Bridge
Offers sweeping views of the canal and surrounding jungle. You can’t stop, but even passing over is unforgettable.
Colón
Rough around the edges but full of character, culture, and authentic food experiences. It’s Panama without the polish—and that’s exactly why it works.
Places to Eat
Cafe Portobelo
A brilliant local spot where simplicity reigns supreme—fresh seafood, perfectly cooked, and packed with flavour. It’s the kind of place you trust the waiter (or Jorge) to order for you.
- Location: Colón, Panama
- Cuisine: Local seafood
- Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/cafeportobelo/reels/
Arrecifes
Bustling and lively, with proper family dining and seriously good seafood. The soup alone is worth the visit.
- Location: Colón, Panama
- Cuisine: Seafood
- Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/restaurante_arrecifes/
Istmo Coffee Roasters
Not just coffee—it’s an experience. Light, aromatic brews and a real sense of local pride.
- Location: Colón, Panama
- Cuisine: Coffee & light bites
- Website: https://cafeistmo.com/
Seafood Evenings by the Water
Later that evening, I found myself at Arrecifes, right on the quay. Families gathered, three generations in some cases, all tucking into plates of seafood.
The laminated menu is fairly basic stuff, and, to be fair, I wasn’t really expecting much. How wrong I was.
Salt cod fish cakes, light, not greasy. Fried squid, tiny, crisp, absolutely moreish. Garlic clams, simple, punchy. And then a seafood soup that reminded me of a proper French bouillabaisse (see Marseille blog), only thicker, richer, and, dare I say, better suited to the tropical heat.
At the next table, two older ladies were demolishing a whole fried croaker, bones and all, fingers doing the work. Proper eating. None of this knife-and-fork fuss. I admired that.
I had never heard of this fish, but back home, after a little research, I found that it’s highly valued in the US and the Caribbean and comes in a few variants. You never stop learning in my game, and if I do return next year, it’s at the top of my list to try; I’ll keep you posted.
Final Thoughts
Panama surprised me. Not just the canal—though that is something else—but the people, the food, the warmth. It’s unpolished in places, yes, but that’s part of the charm.
Inspired Recipes
Some recipes inspired by my brief trip to Panama
Panamanian Garlic Prawns with Plantain Fritters
Juicy garlic prawns paired with crisp, fluffy plantain fritters for a vibrant, easy Panamanian-inspired seafood dish.
View RecipeRich Seafood Soup, Panama Style
Garlic-sautéed king prawns and squid served with crisp, golden plantain fritters for a quick, vibrant Panamanian-style seafood meal.
View RecipeCrunchy Coconut Prawns with Sweet Potato
My Crunchy Coconut Prawns with Sweet Potato is a vibrant dish infused with the rich flavours and vibrant colours I encountered on my unforgettable journeys through the Caribbean.
View Recipe