Adventure
Gdansk – Poland
I had been looking forward to visiting Gdańsk for quite some time. Several English friends had told me it was a beautiful place, and Piotr—a native Pole—had recently visited and insisted I should go. He even sent me a photo of the beer I simply had to try.
Explore Gdańsk through local cafés, traditional Polish fare, and scenic canals in this engaging travel guide with food and culture highlights.
Weather
I recommend visiting between June and September.
Month High / Low(°C)
January 2° / -3°
February 2° / -2°
March 6° / 1°
April 11° / 4°
May 16° / 9°
June 20° / 12°
July 19° / 13°
August 22° / 15°
September 18° / 11°
October 13° / 7°
November 7° / 3°
December 3° / -1°
Gdansk: A Charming Polish Gem on the Baltic Coast
Gdańsk has a complex and resilient history. The city was almost entirely rebuilt after the Second World War, following extensive damage during the German occupation. I remember watching the news in the 1980s when Lech Wałęsa rose to prominence here, challenging the government after food prices surged. That resistance movement ultimately led to the collapse of Communist rule.
Now, Gdańsk is a vibrant, modern seaside city that draws tourists from around the globe.
A City Rich in Culture and Cuisine
Back in the UK, I’ve always enjoyed browsing Polish delis. I remember discovering kabanos (a thin, cured smoked sausage) as far back as 1980 in a tiny butcher’s shop in Kendal, Cumbria. The Poles certainly know how to make quality cured meats and sausages—arguably rivalling Italy in that department.
One dish I was especially eager to try was pierogi—small, filled dumplings that can be boiled, sautéed, or baked. But first, I needed coffee.
I sought out Café Pellowski, which was oddly tricky to find despite being on the main street. There was no signage, but the café has stood on this site for 77 years. It’s small, spotless, and offers a tempting selection of baked goods. I ordered a coffee and asked for a traditional pastry recommendation. The woman behind the counter suggested a small triangular pastry called Koperta Żurawina, dusted generously with icing sugar. She said the cranberry filling was the best, although there was also an apple (jabłkiem) version.
“Gdańsk won me over with its history, charm, and unforgettable flavours.”
Hidden Cafe Gems and Local Flavours
The coffee had a rich, smooth flavour and was served in a cup with a brilliantly ergonomic handle—my thumb rested comfortably on the top, forefinger inside, and the third finger had its own support underneath. Ingenious!
The pastry was delightfully fresh with a lovely short texture, and the cranberry filling was balanced and not overly sweet. While enjoying it, I jotted down a few notes and searched for a good lunch spot. Although many places were closed (it was Sunday), one option stood out—offering warm black pudding with sautéed cod’s tongues and onion fat! Tempting, but I moved on.
Eventually, I found myself wandering in the spring sunshine toward Stary Młyn Pierogarnia. The name gives it away—it’s a pierogi restaurant.
must see places
Gdańsk is rich in culture, history, and scenic beauty. Here are three must-see spots that showcase the city’s charm.
Old Town (Stare Miasto)
A beautifully reconstructed area with colourful merchant houses, cobbled streets, and historic landmarks like the Neptune Fountain and Artus Court.
European Solidarity Centre
This striking museum and cultural hub honours the Solidarity movement and Lech Wałęsa’s role in modern Polish history.
Gdańsk Crane (Żuraw)
A medieval port crane symbolising the city’s maritime heritage, offering great views and fascinating engineering history.
Places to Eat
Hungry in Gdańsk? Here are three standout spots for a delicious and authentic meal.
Stary Młyn Pierogarnia
A pierogi-lover’s paradise serving traditional dumplings with hearty fillings and local beers.
Café Pellowski
A long-standing bakery café offering excellent coffee, pastries, and a warm, relaxed atmosphere.
Pierogarnia Mandu
Another popular spot for pierogi, praised for its creative fillings and modern interior design.
Pierogi Perfection and a Hearty Polish Meal
Just after midday, the restaurant was quiet, and I secured a table with ease. It turned out to be their 18th anniversary, and although they tried to sell me a commemorative T-shirt, I politely declined. The menu was exactly what I had hoped for, featuring a variety of both baked and boiled pierogi.
First, though, I checked the beer menu and was thrilled to find Książęce, the one Piotr had recommended. It was refreshing to see beer offered in three sizes—a third of a litre, a half-litre, and a full litre.
I began with a bowl of sour rye soup, made with homemade sausage, lovage, egg, and potatoes. It arrived with a vivid drizzle of fresh lovage oil, accompanied by dense bread and a lentil spread. The soup’s depth came from fermented rye, with chunks of soft potato adding a comforting texture. Poached slices of white kiełbasa (fresh sausage) and halved boiled eggs rounded it out. Lovage can sometimes overpower a dish, but here it was beautifully balanced.
A Delicious Dive into Polish Tradition
With help from my server, I selected classic pierogi fillings—potato, cheese and onion, and another with cabbage and mushroom. She recommended having them boiled and then lightly sautéed for colour, which I happily agreed to.
When they arrived, I was glad I’d ordered only five. These were generous portions, served with sweet, sautéed onions and a trio of salads: red cabbage, slightly fermented white cabbage, and brined pickled carrot.
The pierogi dough was chewier than expected but flavourful from being pan-fried. The potato and cheese filling had a lovely balance, while the cabbage and mushroom version offered a different, more subtle texture. Extremely filling, I only managed four out of five. At the next table, another diner ordered five baked pierogi—they were twice the size of mine. He managed three and then spent ten minutes pretending to finish them, prodding them around like a mischievous child. We exchanged smiles and patted our stomachs in mutual understanding.
Would I Return to Gdansk?
Absolutely! Eating proper Polish food in Poland was a joyful experience—flavourful, generous, and unforgettable. Gdańsk had left a deep impression on me, not just for its cuisine but for its character, history, and heart.
Inspired Recipes
Some recipes inspired by my brief trip to Gdansk, Poland
Chunky Chicken & Vegetable Dumpling Broth
A nice easy soup, that will freeze easily and can be made well in advance.
View RecipeSmoked Salmon & Pickled Beetroot with Soft Boiled Eggs & Celery Salt
I have no problem using jarred pickled beetroots, and in fact, I adore them. Of course, you can pickle your own, as my dad and wife do, but to be honest, they taste almost the same once they've been doused in vinegar for three months.
View RecipeTomato Soup
This rich soup blends the flavours of garden fresh basil and oven roasted tomatoes.
View Recipe