Adventure
Returning to St Lucia After All These Years
Returning to an island that never quite leaves you
I hadn’t been back to St Lucia for a good few years. The last visit involved ITV’s This Morning, call sheets, early starts and the usual controlled chaos of filming abroad. Before that, it was a proper January holiday sometime in the mid-nineties.
Culinary travel in St Lucia: food highlights, best eats, top sights and recipes for vibrant island flavours.
Landing in Paradise
Funny thing is, I still have my old notes and scripts, yet I’d completely forgotten where we’d filmed or even what I’d cooked (see 2006 blog). Time has a habit of editing things for you.
This visit was different. I was heading out to pick up a cruise ship and, as I always do on long trips, I tagged on a couple of days beforehand. No rushing, no schedules – just time to relax and soak up the food and culture.
On a previous cruise, I’d met Konrad Wagner and his wife, Chris. They’d spent years working in the Caribbean with Sandals, and Konrad – an architect by trade – later designed and built Calabash Cove. When he said, “Come and stay with us for a couple of days before you get on the ship,” I didn’t need a second invitation.
Weather
I recommend visiting between March and April.
Month High / Low(°C)
January 29° / 23°
February 29° / 23°
March 30° / 24°
April 30° / 25°
May 31° / 26°
June 31° / 26°
July 31° / 26°
August 32° / 26°
September 31° / 26°
October 31° / 25°
November 30° / 24°
December 29° / 23°
Arrival, Roads and Caribbean Evenings
Not long after, I was landing in St Lucia and bouncing north in a transfer cab. The journey involved potholes, stray goats, too many dogs to count and locals flagging us down for lifts. Add near misses with buses and trucks, and you’ve got the full St Lucian driving experience.
We arrived in one piece. Caribbean evenings really are something special – warm breeze, the scent of flowers, cicadas doing their thing. It’s one of the reasons I keep coming back. A chilled Piton beer arrived immediately and, to be honest, barely touched the sides.
Calabash Cove consists of eight bungalows set near a small beach, surrounded by trees, shrubs and flowers. Each comes with a plunge pool, outdoor shower and a well-stocked drinks fridge. All rooms, including the main hotel, have proper sea views – not a glimpse, but the real thing.
First Dinner and Seafood Done Properly
After a quick shower, I wandered up to the open-air restaurant. Tall, airy and looking across the bay towards Castries, it’s a cracking spot – even at night with the town lights twinkling.
Local seafood dominates the menu, as it should. Konrad has spent years building relationships with local fishermen, which means the fish is spankingly fresh. The price he pays is early mornings four days a week, but he wouldn’t have it any other way.
I started with a lobster salad – sweet, tender meat paired with warm tomatoes and a sharp mayo-based dressing. Simple, confident and very well done. Next came a Saint Lucian seafood pot: tuna, octopus, dorado, green-lipped mussels and root vegetables in a light bay-leaf broth. Perfectly cooked and deeply comforting.
Blackened chicken from the specials was exactly that – properly spiced, nicely charred and served on rough-textured mash with a decent sauce. No nonsense cooking. A quick dip in my pool afterwards and, after nearly sixteen hours awake, I was done.
"St Lucia: lush landscapes, soulful flavours, warm seas, and unforgettable island rhythm."
Caribbean Mornings and Breakfast Worth Getting Up For
There’s something magical about Caribbean mornings, especially when you arrive the night before in the dark. Walking up for breakfast, the view opened right up – Castries inlet in the distance, small boats heading out, and complete calm.
Coffee was good, staff even better. I went for the St Lucian breakfast: saltfish, smoked salmon, cucumber salad, fried plantains and avocado. Spot on. The brioche “coco tea” French toast with local honey and berry compote was completely over the top – and completely brilliant.
Poolside Lunches and a Roti to Remember
Calabash’s small beach is calm and secluded, and I love the fact that all beaches in St Lucia are public. Everyone gets to enjoy that water.
Lunch was taken by the pool, helped along by a Pina Colada – my first in forty years, last had in Barbados. The menu keeps things simple and flavour-led. Crab ceviche was perfectly balanced, and grilled prawns with chilli, tomato and beet salad were clean and well-judged.
The standout, though, was the chicken roti with mango sauce. It was so good I had it twice. Juicy chicken in a coconut and turmeric-spiced sauce, wrapped in warm flatbread, finished with mango chutney and – joy of joys – a properly dressed salad.
I’ve loved roti since my first bite on Rockley Beach, Barbados, back in 1983. This one rivalled an excellent version I had recently in St Vincent, which is high praise indeed.
Tuna That Blew My Mind
Dinner that evening was strong again. The open ravioli with braised fennel and lobster was balanced and beautifully seasoned. Blackened chicken Caesar salad also worked well.
Herb-crusted kingfish was fine, but compared to the other dishes, it lacked a bit of spark. Not bad – just outshone.
Then came the cocoa-rubbed seared yellowfin tuna. A huge 350g slice, grilled perfectly and rested properly. The texture was extraordinary – juicy, open and almost steak-like, more rib-eye than fish.
I spoke to Konrad the next day. He put it down to the size of the fish and its freshness – caught that very morning, he reckoned. I won’t forget that dish in a hurry.
Dessert was bananas flambéed in white rum. So flaming, in fact, that the paper serviette caught fire and had to be put out with my sparkling water. All part of the fun.
Friday Night Fish Fry at Gros Islet
The following night, we headed to the famous Gros Islet Friday fish fry – a full-on street party with music, rum, smoke and fantastic food, all with a relaxed, safe feel.
The air was thick with chargrill smoke. Lobster, flying fish, conch, stews and braises everywhere. Duke’s Grill had a queue a mile long, so we sensibly moved on.
We ended up at a small spot on the crossroads near the music – a place Konrad eats at regularly. I went for BBQ ribs and braised conch, served with plantains, macaroni, red beans, cassava, rice and veg. Proper, hearty, well-cooked food.
Leaving St Lucia – For Now
I had a cracking time. I suspect I’ll be back later in 2025, and next time I’ll explore Castries properly. Another blog waiting to be written.
must see places
Cathedral Basilica of the Immaculate Conception, Castries
An architectural gem and serene stop between market visits — a chance to reflect amid your foodie wanderings.
WikiLink: Cathedral Basilica of the Immaculate Conception, Castries
Castries Market
A sensory overload of produce, spices and local life. Go early, talk to stallholders and taste everything you’re offered.
WikiLink: Castries Market – Open-air Local Treats
Derek Walcott Square – Castries Heart
Named after the Nobel laureate, this central square is perfect for people-watching and cultural immersion.
WikiLink: Derek Walcott Square – Castries Heart
Places to Eat
Naked Fisherman Restaurant
This place serves fresh, grilled fish with a laid-back beach vibe that’s perfect after a snorkel or sunset walk. The seafood is local and deliciously unpretentious — exactly how island food should be.
- Location: Smugglers Cove Road, Gros Islet
- Cuisine: Caribbean Seafood & Grill
- Website: http://nakedfishermanstlucia.com/
The Cliff at Cap
Dramatic ocean views are just the opening act here — the food is seriously creative with a Caribbean soul. Make sure you’ve got time for a long lunch; it’s one of those places you linger in.
- Location: Smugglers Cove Rd, Gros Islet
- Cuisine: Caribbean, Seafood, European Fusion
- Website: https://thecliffatcap.com/
The Coal Pot Restaurant
A long-established favourite for authentic Lucian dishes like crab backs and seafood chowder. A must-visit if you want to dive deeper into the flavours of the island outside resort kitchens.
- Location: Castries
- Cuisine: Local & Seafood
- Website: http://thecoalpotrestaurant.com/
Inspired Recipes
Some recipes inspired by my brief trip to St Lucia
Caribbean Lobster & Mango Salad
Sweet lobster meets juicy mango, chilli heat and citrus freshness in a light, vibrant island salad.
View RecipeCoconut-Curried Salt Fish with Rice & Peas
A Caribbean-inspired dish of gently curried salt cod simmered in coconut milk with kidney beans, served over fluffy long-grain rice and peas for a rich, comforting one-plate meal.
View RecipeSt Lucian Chicken Roti with Coconut & Turmeric Sauce
Tender chicken simmered in coconut and turmeric, wrapped in soft bread with bright mango sweetness.
View Recipe