Riga Latvia

I had come specifically to try Latvian grey peas.

These peas reminded me very much of the Carlin peas used in Lancashire for the traditional dish of parched peas. My mother’s side of the family came from that part of the country, so I grew up with similar flavours — simple food, cooked properly, full of memories.

The Latvian version was wonderful. The peas were boiled until tender and slightly mushy, then served with smoked bacon pieces, sour cream, radish slices and what they call cracklings — essentially crisp pieces of bacon.

It was simple cooking, but that’s exactly why it worked.

There was something incredibly comforting about it. Food doesn’t always need to be complicated or covered in clever techniques. Sometimes a bowl of peas, bacon and seasoning tells a better story than the most elaborate dish.

It reminded me that many traditional foods across Europe share the same roots. Different countries, different names, but similar ideas — make the most of what you have and create something delicious.

My main course was another Latvian classic: blood sausage with creamed potatoes and sauerkraut.

The sausage was completely different from what I expected. Rather than the firm texture I’m used to in Britain, this was soft, almost like a pâté. It was deeply flavoured with marjoram, pork fat, coarse black pepper and barley groats, giving it a rich, savoury character.

There was also a gentle smokiness that worked beautifully with the creamy potatoes.

The sauerkraut was perhaps not quite what I imagined. It was more like pickled cabbage rather than the fermented cabbage I was expecting, and although the beetroot mentioned on the menu didn’t appear, the dish was still enjoyable.

Overall, it was a cracking lunch.

With drinks and service, the bill came to around £40. It wasn’t the cheapest meal I’ve had in Latvia, but for the quality, atmosphere and chance to taste genuine local food, it was worth every penny.

Would I return?

Absolutely.