Adventure
Salerno – Italy
Like most ports we visit, we arrive around 6:30 in the morning, and the bright lights of the cranes or cruise pier typically wake me up. Salerno was no different, although this time of year, late March, it’s already getting lighter earlier. It’s a bright but slightly cloudy day. The captain let us know we had docked safely and updated us on the weather forecast for the day, saying, “Full sun will be with us by mid-morning,” as it turned out, he was absolutely right.
Balkan Lunches is a series of restaurant visits starting in Croatia and Slovenia with a cheeky trip to northern Italy. Join Phil on this whistle-stop tour of the Balkans, where he samples some delightful local restaurants and cafes.
I recommend visiting Solerno from June to August, although any time of the year is good to visit the city.
Month High / Low(°C) Rain
January 12° / 7° 9 days
February 13° / 7° 8 days
March 15° / 9° 8 days
April 18° / 13° 8 days
May 23° / 16° 6 days
June 27° / 21° 4 days
July 30° / 23° 2 days
August 30° / 23° 3 days
September 26° / 19° 5 days
October 22° / 15° 7 days
November 17° / 12° 10 days
December 14° / 8° 10 days
Lunch in Salerno
I wander off into town in search of good coffee. Salerno’s prom (as we used to say when we holidayed in Blackpool) or the much grander sounding Il Lungomare is full of people enjoying a Sunday stroll in their finery (the Italians do it very well). Also, there is a local fishing competition in full swing, which everyone is taking very seriously. The prizes are splendid trophies for the top places and bottles of red wine… how very civilised.
After a chat with a few people, I eventually head back two streets into the central part of town and stumble on a small area with a good selection of cafés, restaurants and delis. I wander into the first coffee shop, which has nothing special on the outside, but once inside, I see and am stunned by the array of cakes and pastries on offer. I ordered a coffee and a slice of pistachio torte for 8 Euros, which I thought was pretty good considering a coffee alone would be 5 Euros in the UK. The coffee was fine and torte delicious. I wandered off again and had an hour or so kill before lunch at:
Osteria Dedicato a Mio Padre,
Vicolo Guidaica 5-8,
84121 Salerno,
Italy
Web: https://www.dedicatoamiopadre.com/
Amusingly, when I turned up just after noon, I was told to come back in 20 minutes as they were not open until 12:30 despite telling me by email that it opened at midday.
A Family-Run Restaurant
It’s a tiny family-run affair, quite familiar in Italy, with what looked like three generations on hand. While waiting for my table, I glanced into the kitchen and saw the coffee percolator on the stove, something I had not seen for years. My father always had one when I was growing up after he returned from working in France in the late 60’s.
I’m sat down and given menus, and thank goodness one of the youngest staff members can understand my awful Italian/English, but, as is always the case, replies to me in perfect English with a smile! I always feel rather inept or possibly lazy when I go abroad.
The menu is simple and straight to the point, mainly fish-based, as it would be so close to the sea, but there is a sprinkling of meat alternatives, including local veal, pork and chicken.
I opt for the antipasti di mere (cotto), not knowing what that would be, then Linguine Con I Ricci, linguine with sea urchin that I adore, plus Insalata Verde or green salad. I reckon a large glass of Leone De Castris rose from Puligia is the preferred option with fish on a sunny Sunday, plus sparkling water.
Course after Course of Superb Dishes
First arrives a deep-fried, super light pillow of dough topped with fresh tomato puree and olive oil. It’s simple and very nice; what a great way to start the meal. Next comes some superb bread, which is warm, served in a bag, and a shrimp cocktail. It’s served and eaten with a thin slice of fresh orange. Also, a little sliver of aged salt-baked fish; I wasn’t sure what species it was. It was served at room temperature and doused with a pungent olive oil, extra sea salt and a little fresh mint. I didn’t catch the fish species, but I did see the whole thing being taken to another table; both were lovely.
Next, again, at room temperature, braised with mussels, white beans, celery, leek, parsley, and olive oil. Again, it’s just lovely.
A deep-fried prawn was next. This batter was a bit doughy but was okay. The Melanzane Parmigiana baked with anchovies was excellent, all at room temperature.
Four razor clams in olive oil swiftly arrived. They are tiny and sweet, and they have a touch of salt, which is superb. The baby squid stuffed with rocket and lightly sautéed are also great. The final starter (of 8), again a room temperature, cooked potato wrapped in blanched spinach with olive oil and a homemade anchovy paste. Wow! What a way to start!
"My main course arrives and again is a triumph of simplicity"
Definitely a Hit with the Locals
The restaurant is filling up with locals, as it is a Sunday and getting really busy. Thank goodness I arrived early. My main course arrives and again is a triumph of simplicity, just al dente linguine with olive oil and a semi-puree of sea urchins and Parmesan cheese. It’s so delicious and the best part of the meal. I hoover up every last scrap, even using the remnants of the bread to soak up the briny, sweet tentacles of the Echinoidea (Sea Urchins) and its fabulous juices. God, it was good.
Nothing else is needed. I’m completely stuffed, so get the bill. The whole lot was 55 Euros, which I think is fabulous value for money in this day and age!
