Adventure
Santander
I’d often wondered where my bank came from, and then — tadah! There it was. Santander. That aside, I rather liked the place straight away. It reminded me a little of Salerno and also Alicante, with its long promenades, palm-lined boulevards and that slightly understated confidence that good coastal cities tend to have.
Explore Santander through food, markets and local cooking in this flavour-led Spanish travel story.
Weather
I recommend visiting between July and August.
Month High / Low(°C)
January 13° / 6°
February 14° / 7°
March 16° / 8°
April 17° / 9°
May 19° / 11°
June 22° / 14°
July 24° / 16°
August 24° / 17°
September 22° / 15°
October 20° / 12°
November 16° / 9°
December 14° / 7°
Santander: Where the Bank Began
Santander is the capital of Cantabria, a region along Spain’s northern coastline, and not to be confused with the Basque Country further east. Fishing is big business here, much like Vigo, and it’s also a serious financial hub, hence the bank, I suppose. I arrived in mid-January, and although it had absolutely hammered down the night before, by the time I reached town the sun was out, and the air smelt unmistakably of freshly cut grass. All the parks and verges had been neatly trimmed, and I love that smell; it’s oddly comforting.
It was warmish rather than hot. I wandered around in an open-neck fleece feeling slightly overdressed, while the locals were fully togged up in hats, scarves and gloves. Spaniards do winter with commitment.
Pintxos: No English Menus and Trusting My Instincts
My first port of call was Casa Lita, a tapas bar right on the main promenade and about a fifteen-minute walk from where I was staying. Its reputation is enormous. Not that I pay much attention to reviews. I’d rather make my own mind up, but I couldn’t find a bad word said about it.
From the outside, it’s fairly unassuming: ground floor of an apartment block, a couple of blokes smoking, a small A-frame advertising food. Inside, though, it’s large and airy with banquette seating down one side and stools dotted about for quick bites. The counters in the centre are piled high with food, and it quickly became clear that there were no English menus, no translations and no English being spoken. Perfect.
Three Hundred Combinations
The chef, Joseba Guijarro, is an ex-Michelin star and a master of pintxos — small snacks skewered with cocktail sticks. Apparently, he’s created over 300 combinations here. I ordered a small beer and crisps, and simply dived in. These are hearty morsels, ranging from large, thick slices of cheese on crisp bread to foie gras mousse with apple. Small breaded chicken slices with tomatoes and lettuce, black pudding and lots and lots of fish and shellfish. I’m a bit late to the show, but I can see it’s been a busy lunch as a lot have been sold. I really have no clue what to order, so I get a small beer and go for it.
From what I later worked out, I had spider crab pudding with cocktail sauce, a soft potato tortilla with roasted green pepper (my favourite), beautifully cooked bream with grilled pepper and potato, topped with tomato relish, and hot-smoked salmon wrapped in dried ham with hollandaise and crisp onions. All hearty, all deeply satisfying, and far too easy to overdo — which I absolutely did.
“Santander rewards appetite, curiosity and respect for beautifully simple food.”
Iberico Heaven and a Lesson in Simplicity
That evening, I headed to Dan Bernardo, a small bar-restaurant dedicated entirely to 100% Iberico ham. This is my favourite ham in the world, alongside Bayonne from France, and this place takes it very seriously indeed. They even sell whole acorn-fed “Gold” Pata Negra hams starting at over €500. This is not messing about.
I ordered a glass of Ximénez sherry, far too sweet, wires crossed there and a platter of cold cuts: ham, chorizo and salchichón, made from Iberico pork with black pepper, garlic and nutmeg. Everything was creamy, rich and beautifully balanced. The chorizo, with its glistening soft fat, was exceptional. My friend Dave loved it so much that he bought four packs to take home.
We followed that with another board of ham, shoulder, cheese, foie gras (which wasn’t, but never mind) and toast. Absolute bliss.
The following day, I visited Mercado de la Esperanza, housed in a stunning 122-year-old building. Downstairs was fish, everything from enormous tuna to oysters, cuttlefish, monkfish, both tiny and terrifyingly large, and every crab imaginable. Upstairs was meat, veg and cheese: tripe, trotters, whole cockerels, goat, pristine Iberico pork and endless cured meats. I could have spent hours there. The only frustration was that there was nowhere to eat the savoury stuff, just cafés and sweet treats.
Small Plates, Big Flavours
and Why We Get It Wrong at Home
Later, slightly snackish (as my six-year-old once described it), we stumbled into the El Águila food hall. A small, relaxed collection of bars and cafés serving tapas of every description is just right. Dave went for avocado and smoked salmon on rye with sautéed yellow peppers and anchovies. I chose crab pâté with cured salmon, sesame seeds, and red caviar; avocado with anchovy and olives; salt cod with white crab and red caviar; and a surprisingly spicy beef empanada.
Two glasses of wine included, the bill came to €22. How we can’t manage this in the UK is beyond me. That would have been double at home, plus service charge, and the wine alone would’ve been £15.
It reminded me, once again, that while in the UK we eat to live, in most of the places I visit, people live to eat. The final image that summed it all up came later at Dan Bernardo, when a woman popped in and bought a tiny croissant filled with the world’s best Iberico ham for €1.90, tucked into a paper cone. She walked off into the night a very happy lady. Our equivalent? A tired ‘steak bake’ from Greggs at twice the price. Says it all, really!
must see places
Casa Lita
A pintxos institution with extraordinary variety and consistency, run by an ex-Michelin chef who understands flavour and restraint. Hearty, inventive and utterly Santander
- Location: Paseo de Pereda, Santander –
- Cuisine: Pintxos / Spanish tapas
- Website: https://casalita.es/
Don Bernardo
A temple to 100% Iberico ham, where quality is everything, and nothing is rushed. Simple, serious and unforgettable for cured-meat lovers.
- Location: Santander city centre
- Cuisine: Iberico ham & charcuterie
- Instagram: Don Bernardo
El Águila Food Hall
Relaxed, affordable and perfect for grazing on small plates with excellent wine. A great snapshot of modern Santander food culture.
- Location: Santander
- Cuisine: Tapas & small plates
- Website: Reviews-Asador_El_Aguila-Noja_Cantabria
Places to Eat
Magdalena Peninsula
A beautiful headland with walking paths, beaches and the former royal palace, offering superb views over the bay.
- Website: https://www.palaciomagdalena.com
Centro Botín
A striking modern art centre on the waterfront, designed by Renzo Piano, blending culture with sea views.
- Website: https://www.centrobotin.org/
El Sardinero Beach
Santander’s most famous beach is elegant and expensive, perfect for long walks regardless of season.
- Website: https://www.spain.info
Inspired Recipes
Some recipes inspired by my brief trip to Santander
Cantabrian Crab & Potato Tortilla
Golden, crab-studded Spanish tortilla: silky eggs, soft potatoes and sweet Cantabrian crab, simple yet luxuriously comforting and utterly irresistible.
View RecipeIberico Ham & Cheese Toasts
Crispy sourdough, silky Iberico ham, and melty Spanish cheese unite in a simple, irresistible bite of pure Mediterranean joy.
View RecipeRustic Tomato Bread & Padrón Peppers
A relaxed Spanish classic, perfect for lunch or a tapas-style meal.
View Recipe