Adventure
Split – Croatia
It’s quite a pleasant day when we arrive in Split. The sun is trying to emerge, but the cloud is low; at least it’s not too cold. However, our captain informed us that the forecast does not look good, given the increasing winds and rain. Who cares? I’m always excited to visit a place I have never been to before and can’t wait to get out to explore and, of course, find some good food, wine and coffee.
Balkan Lunches is a series of restaurant visits starting in Croatia and Slovenia with a cheeky trip to northern Italy. Join Phil on this whistle-stop tour of the Balkans, where he samples some delightful local restaurants and cafes.
I recommend visiting Split in July or August, although any time of year is good to visit the city.
Month High / Low(°C) Rain
January 10° / 6° 8 days
February 11° / 6° 7 days
March 14° / 8° 7 days
April 18° / 11° 7 days
May 23° / 16° 6 days
June 27° / 20° 5 days
July 31° / 22° 2 days
August 30° / 22° 3 days
September 25° / 18° 5 days
October 20° / 14° 6 days
November 15° / 10° 8 days
December 12° / 7° 8 days
It’s only a short walk from the centre of the old town, which is always a bonus. The main old town in and around the Diocletian palace was built between 295 and 305 by the emperor Diocletian. It’s an impressive palace with a maze of small, narrow streets, shops and restaurants. If you want the best food, do not eat at the promenade as it’s a bit touristy, so go into the old palace. Having said that, they do have some cracking bakeries on the prom.
As you head into the old town, you will pass the green market to the right. This market is where all the locals buy their fruit and vegetables, but as it’s late March, there’s not much variety. However, that doesn’t stop the locals from haggling and trying to get a deal. There is a very agitated local woman rounding on a male stallholder. I feel a bit sorry for him. I don’t speak any Croatian, but it looked like he pretty much caved in, and they all got what they wanted.
A Hidden Gem
Like always, after researching and finding a few places, my main focus is oysters and the local air-dried Dalmatian ham. Finally, I found Leonis, a restaurant with lovely rooms slap bang in the middle of the old palace. I love Google Maps for this, as I would never have found it tucked away in a narrow alley.
The restaurant is modern, clean, smart, and very friendly, but empty; I am a little early, which could explain why. To my left are two seawater tanks, one with huge lobsters and the other with clams of various sizes and several sizes of oysters. It is perfect.
My waiter is charming and impeccably dressed and shows me to the table. Bread and water arrive swiftly. The menu is short and straight to the point, which I love. He took my order, and I added a glass of the Dalmatian Markus rose, a dry rose with lots of acidity, similar to Minuty. I had The exact wine at Kopen in Dubrovnik a few days ago.
Glorious Prsut
I ordered a cured Dalmatian ham called Prsut; it arrived with salad mâché (corn salad), black olives, cherry tomatoes, and thin slices of pickled onions. The long slices are soft and not salty at all. The cold smoke adds to the taste and differs from Italian prosciutto or Spanish ham. It’s more akin to the Bayonne ham of Gascony and the Basque country. It was a bit too cold but soon warmed up, the fat releasing its glorious flavour and texture; it’s very nice indeed.
"Croatia famous for oysters and salt produced here since the 13th Century."
Delightful Oysters
Ten large oysters arrived, and I was so impressed that I forgot to ask where they were from. I assume they are from Ston, a peninsula north of Croatia famous for oysters and salt produced here since the 13th Century. They are sharp, briny and acidic, and I soon hoover them up.
It’s a simple main course but a local speciality, cuttlefish risotto, which is black as a tarmac. Its deep flavour and soft textured, perfectly cooked cuttlefish are spot on—no vac-pack cooking here, just real knowledge and skill; what a joy. The rice is cooked to perfection, and it’s also notable that no cheese is added to Croatian risotto, making it a light meal. I could not fault it in any way. 50 Euros for this is a snip, and I would gladly return again and again.
A Bit of Culture
On my way back, I pay a visit to the Museum Grande. The museum is a stunning historic building with grand halls and sweeping staircases transporting you back in time. The building expertly blends the old with the new, offering a compelling mix of traditional and contemporary art. From ancient Roman relics to modern installations, there’s something here to satisfy every palate.
