Adventure
Stockholm – Sweden
The captain mentioned in his daily update that we would sail up a beautiful narrow channel on the way into Stockholm at about 4 am. So, I thought it worthwhile setting my alarm. He was not wrong; on both sides of the channel were a series of small islands, inlets and beaches studded with stunning homes. As we slowly chugged along, the sun was high in the sky, and the wind finally dropped. It was the start of a lovely day.
We finally berth about 40 minutes ahead of schedule at about 9:30, and I finish researching coffee and lunch venues.
I recommend visiting Stockholm from September to November, although any time of the year is good to visit the city.
Month High / Low(°C) Rain
January 1° / -3° 9 days
February 1° / -3° 6 days
March 5° / -1° 6 days
April 11° / 3° 6 days
May 17° / 7° 6 days
June 21° / 12° 7 days
July 24° / 15° 8 days
August 22° / 14° 8 days
September 17° / 10° 8 days
October 10° / 6° 8 days
November 6° / 2° 10 days
December 2° / -1° 10 days
Coffee was fine, but many restaurants (as in the UK) are either closed on Mondays or open for evening service only, which narrowed things down quite a lot. The shuttle bus picks us up, and we set off into the city’s centre; this takes about 35 minutes. We are dropped off by the river and next to the Swedish Opera House, a place easy to find for the return journey. To the back of the opera house is a small park lined with cafes, restaurants and hotels. It is nice and spotlessly clean, like many European cities I have visited. My destination is Saturnus, a small coffee house/café/ bar about 15 minutes away.
Swedish Cinnamon Buns (Kanelbullar)
I love Google Maps, and it directs me straight to the place set off the main street in a quiet residential area, which is not what I expected. There are few tables outside; inside is a cool, rather charming place with a lovely feel. The counter is groaning with cakes and pastries. I order coffee and one of their and Sweden’s famous cinnamon buns, and my very handsome waiter, Jacob, brings it to my table outside. The coffee is excellent, and I quickly polish it off and order another. The bun is huge and heavy, topped with crunchy sugar nibs, and heavily laced with sugar and cinnamon syrup. It’s okay, albeit good, if not a tad leaden for me. I asked Jacob where the best fish restaurants were and showed him where I was thinking of going. He approves and tells me of another restaurant, not specifically Fish, but they do a very nice Char dish (I love Char from my Lake District days in the early 80s). There is something really nice about eating and drinking outside on a warm summer morning.
The Market Hall
Paying the bill, I move on to my lunch location, Lisa Elmqvist, set in the Saluhall, a beautiful bespoke building housing many local cafes, butchers and fishmongers. I hesitate to call it a market purely because it’s much more than that. It’s very smart and really cool, and it’s very similar to The Market Hall in Sweden. The good thing is it’s only a 15-minute walk from Saturnus in a trendy part of the city.
I tried to book but could not get through, so I pitched up. I was early, but even then, the two main restaurants were pretty much full, which is always a good sign. I’m seated at the bar, which I always like because you see what’s going on, especially as the open plan kitchen is on view to the left of me. The staff are all charming, accommodating and attentive. Crispbreads (round Ryvita) plus a sort of sourdough arrive with whipped butter, as does water. The menu is precisely what you’d expect, full of fish, herrings in myriad ways, shellfish, oysters and cheeses. I didn’t see any meat.
"Gothenburg, situated on the west coast of Sweden, is famous for world class seafood"
Lisa Elmqvist
The oysters are perfect; the Speciale are larger, plumper and sweeter than the run-of-the-mill ones. The molasses bread is delicious, with a deep, sweet flavour and colour, and is served warm. It always helps to bring out the slightly bitter edge, and they don’t last long.
Next, the herring arrives with the dill potatoes, but I could only count four varieties. Red wine vinegar and onion, creamy dill, chives, and watercress and cheese. The herring is cured to perfection, with an ultra-soft texture, sweet and full of flavour. All the individual flavours taste as they should: strong, pungent, great colour and superb. Even the variety in the cream cheese works well. The potatoes are a meal in themselves, and they are very filling but totally delicious. The texture reminded me of the warm parsley potatoes (without the cream or mayo) I had eaten in Vienna last year (blog to come). The Riesling washed it all down nicely. Not surprisingly, I didn’t have room left for dessert or coffee. I would definitely come back; I considered revisiting the next day but decided I needed to find the best meatballs. Well, we are in Sweden, after all.
I want it all, but go for half a dozen Fine de Claire oysters, three bog standard and 3 ‘Speciale’, then herring five ways with rye bread and local cheese (Västerbotten) with a side of dill creamed potatoes, and a generous glass of Feinherb, George Muller Riesling, no measuring, so lovely to see.
Meatballs For The People
Again, after some research, I narrowed it down to a couple, then opted for a place, funnily enough, called Meatballs For The People—a 35-minute walk from my drop-off point by the Swedish Opera House going south over the bridge. I didn’t mind as it was a beautiful day. Also, I wanted to check out another coffee shop in that area, so I popped in. Now, the blurb on Drop says it is one of the (wait for it) best coffee shops, not just in Stockholm but in the world. Now, I’m not entirely sure how you go about getting that sort of award. Is it self-proclaimed or a general consensus, or did they enter a competition?
Whatever it is, it’s a bold claim, so I just had to try. It’s sparse, cool, very understated, and quite busy. I ordered a cappuccino, hoping to get asked which sort of coffee I preferred; nope, I just paid and waited. I sat down, and after a few moments, a very small coffee arrived at my table. I’m not a coffee expert or snob, for that matter, but I like what I like. The coffee was delicious, aromatic, sweet, fragrant, and at the right temperature. I can taste the difference between what I usually drink and see why they are well renowned, but is it one of the best in the world? I sit and ponder for a few minutes and take in the relaxed atmosphere before I head off for lunch.
No Bear Meatballs
The meatball place is 16 minutes away, according to Google Maps. The area is very residential and utterly different from my walk here through the touristy food and trinket shops. At the end of the street, I see the restaurant. It’s not what I expected—a majestic building on a street corner with a few tables outside. A small lectern has the menu, and a small Chihuahua sits in the shade.
The staff are charming and sit on a bench table with two other lads; the menu is compact and straight to the point. They serve 12 types of meatballs here, including lamb, reindeer, and bear (out of season, gutted). I order half a litre of Visby stout and the chef’s choice of 4 varieties. My waitress explained that the bear is culled in the winter, and they had sold out. She smiles and says I’ll have to come back. It arrives swiftly, served with mash, lingonberries and a mushroom gravy. They were all excellent, the reindeer being my favourite for its toothy texture and deep flavour.
Heading Back
I wander back through the exceptionally clean streets and gardens, thinking, what a lovely city this must be to live in. I’ll be back for bear meatballs at some point, and I’ll let you know how I get on.
