Adventure
Sun soaked Streets of Belize
I wasn’t entirely sure what to expect when I finally arrived in Belize. Like many places I’ve travelled to over the years, my knowledge was sketchy at best. A couple of friends had done jungle training here during their military days, and beyond that, my awareness stretched no further than a rather dodgy reputation for violent crime, particularly around the capital, Belmopan. Not exactly the stuff of glossy travel brochures.
Discover Belize’s food, culture and top attractions with local eats, recipes and travel tips in this immersive guide.
Weather
I recommend visiting between December and April.
Month High / Low(°C)
January 29° / 21°
February 30° / 21°
March 31° / 22°
April 32° / 23°
May 33° / 24°
June 33° / 24°
July 32° / 24°
August 32° / 24°
September 31° / 24°
October 30° / 23°
November 29° / 22°
December 28° / 21°
Geography, Jungle and a Bit of Context
Belize sits in the central Caribbean, bordered by the Caribbean Sea and boasting the second largest coral reef in the world — no small thing. It’s tucked into the southern edge of the Yucatán Peninsula, with Mexico to the north and Guatemala to the west. Technically not an island, but it often feels like one. Lush mountains, dense rainforest and thick humidity make it ideal for military training — and not always ideal for crisp shirts. Best time to visit? February through May. After that, the rains arrive from June to September, and when it rains here, it really means business.
Geography Lesson Over - Let’s Talk Food
Now to the important stuff. The food scene in Belize is a proper hotchpotch, and I mean that as a compliment. Creole dishes form the backbone: slow-cooked stews, barbecued chicken and pork, big flavours and no fuss. Add to that Mayan influences, cornmeal, tamales wrapped in banana leaves, vegetables and chicken cooked simply and sensibly. Mexican flavours creep in too, as you’d expect given the border, and then there’s Garifuna cooking: fish and plantains simmered gently in coconut milk, deeply comforting.
Ceviche — or serviche as it’s often spelt in Belize — is everywhere. Fresh, citrusy and perfect in the heat.
The Dish That Got Away
One thing I was desperate to try was gibnut, a member of the guinea pig family. Locally nicknamed the “Royal Rat” after it was famously served to the Queen in 1985, much to the horror of the British press. I never did find it on the menu while I was there, which was a shame. I’ve eaten guinea pig several times in Cusco in the Andes, confit and deep-fried whole, and it’s absolutely delicious. Still, you can’t win them all.
"Belize surprised me: bold flavours, honest food, and memories that linger."
The Usual Plan - Coffee First
You know my routine by now: find a decent coffee shop, then a proper local place for lunch. Simple food done well beats anything fancy every time. Coffee shops were a bit thin on the ground in Belize City, but I eventually struck gold at Brew Coffee House, tucked away in the basement of an art-deco-looking block at Paradise Point. The coffee was excellent, genuinely excellent, and the staff utterly charming. My taxi driver reckoned it was the best in town — and I was inclined to agree
Trust the Taxi Driver
I asked him where I should eat lunch. He thought for a moment, then drove me a couple of blocks to Nerie’s. He told me to wait in the cab while he went inside to check if they were open. A few minutes later, he emerged with a thumbs-up. Deal done. He’d pick me up later.
Lunch at Nerie’s
You enter through a small bar and head upstairs, emerging into a dining room overlooking the street. It was hot, properly hot, so the first order of business was a very cold local beer. The menu was right up my street: conch soup, fish balls, fried snapper, and beef liver. Lunch specials included oxtail, lobster and even deer meat. Gibnut was listed, but not available that day. Apparently, I needed to come back next week.
The Obvious Choice
Two dishes leapt out: stewed cow foot and cow foot soup. I ordered both. The stew was outstanding. Long-cooked tendons and skin, gelatinous and rich, paired with braised rice studded with celery and peppers, fried plantains and coleslaw. It reminded me of my father tucking into boiled cow heels set in jelly when I was a kid — but this was miles better. Deeply savoury, comforting, and cooked with real care.
The Soup that Seals the Deal
The cow foot soup was just as impressive. The menu described it as “a Belizean favourite with cow’s feet bubbled with okra, cocoa, potatoes, carrots and local spices and herbs”. It delivered on every word. Thick, unctuous broth, big chunks of potato, whole okra, and that sticky richness you only get from proper slow cooking. I bloody loved it.
Handle with Care
Served alongside both dishes were pickled habaneros. They are ferociously hot, a perfect foil to the fatty richness — but they will take your breath away. Trust me. Be careful.
Ten Quid well Spent
Both dishes came in at around £10 each. An absolute steal. I had another beer, settled the bill, and wandered outside where my taxi driver was waiting right on time.
Final Thoughts
The chances are I’ll never return to Belize in my lifetime. But I’m very glad I went. The food alone made it worthwhile — honest, bold, unforgettable. Sometimes, a short stay and one exceptional lunch is all you need.
must see places
For more on what to see and do, check out Lonely Planet’s guide to Belize:
Belize Zoo
Home to more than 175 native animals in their natural habitats, it’s a treat for wildlife lovers and families alike.
Great Blue Hole
This iconic underwater sinkhole is a bucket-list dive and snorkel site — often seen in aerial photos of Belize.
San Ignacio & Mayan Ruins
A hub for jungle exploration and ancient Mayan sites like Xunantunich and Cahal Pech, with plenty of outdoor activity options. About 70 miles from Belize City.
Places to Eat
Brew Coffee House at Paradise Point
Coffee shop
A blissful coffee stop with cold brews that cut through the heat, comfy seats and friendly staff — brilliant for breakfasts, brunch or regrouping before a day of exploring.
- Location: Belize City / Paradise Point
- Cuisine: Coffee, light café fare
- Instagram: Brew.bz
Nerie’s
If you want heart and soul on a plate, this is the local hangout to try spots like cow foot stew, oxtail specials and traditional Creole homestyle cooking.
- Location: Belize City
- Cuisine: Authentic Belizean / Central American
- Instagram: Neries
Bird’s Isle Restaurant
A local favourite near the water with generous seafood and Caribbean dishes, perfect for a sunset meal with cold drinks and ocean breezes.
- Location: Belize City
- Cuisine: Caribbean / Seafood
- Instagram: Bird’s Isle Restaurant
Inspired Recipes
Some recipes inspired by my brief trip to Belize
Belizean Conch Ceviche
Enjoy Belizean Conch Ceviche, a refreshing marinated seafood dish with conch, onion, tomato, jalapeño, and coriander, served with chips or lettuce.
View RecipeBelizean-Style Cow Foot Soup
A hearty Belizean-style cow foot soup, simmered with vegetables and herbs, served hot with rice. It may sound a little weird, but trust me, it’s delicious.
View RecipeBraised Caribbean Octopus
Tender Caribbean octopus braised slowly with tomatoes, wine, garlic, and peppers.
View Recipe