Adventure
Syracuse – Sicily
Exploring Sicily’s sunlit gem of seafood, markets, and Mediterranean charm.
Wander through Ortigia’s food markets, historic squares, and hidden cafés in this sunny and delicious guide to Syracuse, Sicily.
Weather
I recommend visiting between June and August.
Month High / Low(°C)
January 1° / -3°
February 1° / -3°
March 5° / -1°
April 11° / 3°
May 17° / 7°
June 21° / 12°
July 22° / 15°
August 22° / 14°
September 17° / 110°
October 10° / 6°
November 6° / 2°
December 2° / -1°
January 1° / -3°
February 1° / -3°
March 5° / -1°
April 11° / 3°
May 17° / 7°
June 21° / 12°
July 22° / 15°
August 22° / 14°
September 17° / 110°
October 10° / 6°
November 6° / 2°
December 2° / -1°
A Long-Awaited Return to Sicily
Years ago, I had been booked to do a job in Sicily, but it was cancelled at the last moment. I was so disappointed. My business partner at the time still went a few days later and returned full of praise. He said the food, wine, and people were captivating—completely different from anything he had experienced before.
One detail stuck with me: he described the incredible array of fresh fish, particularly the swordfish and tuna. I’ll come back to that later. So, when this trip came up, I knew I wasn’t going to miss the opportunity again.
We arrived early in Syracuse, and the day couldn’t have been more perfect—sunny, warm, and just right for a good wander. The plan was to explore the small island of Ortigia, a 10-minute walk away, linked by three quaint bridges.
Unusually for me, I hadn’t had time to research many places to eat or drink before I left. But since the island is so compact, you can walk the perimeter in just over an hour—I felt confident I’d stumble across something worthwhile. I did know that Ortigia was known for its arancini, those glorious deep-fried rice balls oozing with cheese, and caponata, a sweet-and-sour aubergine and tomato dish with celery, olives, and capers.
While I’m not typically a fan of aubergines, they do have a wonderful way of soaking up flavour and adding body to sauces and stews. Dishes like melanzane alla parmigiana and one of my all-time favourites, moussaka, are proof of how good they can be when properly cooked.
Market Mornings and Street Food Surprises
In need of caffeine, I headed over the bridge into the heart of Ortigia. Initially, a few stalls sold the usual tourist bric-a-brac, but as I ventured further, food stalls gradually took over—and what a transformation.
The market was incredibly impressive, overflowing with the freshest fruit, vegetables, nuts, spices, pastes, seeds, and, of course, fish. Oysters were sold alongside complimentary wine (I’ll come back to that, too). Massive swordfish—heads still attached—looked pristine, alongside glossy tuna, anchovies, octopus, cuttlefish, and prawns. It was absolute heaven.
The food offerings became more elaborate: baby artichokes fried whole, filled pastries, tomato and cheese tarts, crusty bread, and buttery croissants. Curiously though, not a single arancino in sight.
Near the harbour, on the left-hand side of the street, I discovered an outstanding deli with a few tables outside. It was impressive—probably over 60 types of cheese—and buzzing with locals enjoying coffee and crusty bread.
I cautiously ordered a cappuccino, recalling the time I was gently scolded in Asti for requesting one after 10:00 a.m. (and as a man, no less). Fortunately, here it was fine. The coffee was superb, as expected, and I had a warm croissant filled with pistachio cream—delicious.
"Timeless Syracuse captures history, flavours, and Mediterranean charm at every turn."
Oyster Chats, Market Buzz, and Deli Magic
I was eager to find a lunch spot that wasn’t too formal or too touristy. After walking the entire island and still feeling uninspired, I ended up back near the same deli where I’d had coffee earlier.
What a change. It was now packed, with a large new seating area open across the street and a queue forming. I decided to return later and, in the meantime, headed to an oyster stall I’d spotted earlier.
A dozen oysters and a small glass of wine hit the spot. While enjoying them, I chatted with a Texan who was having the time of his life—partly because, as he put it, his wife had wandered off, leaving him in peace (his words, not mine).
When we returned to the deli, it was still busy. The woman who seemed to be in charge recognised us from earlier. She cleared a table and beckoned us over, ignoring the queue behind us with a smile and a dismissive scowl.
I ordered buffalo mozzarella with cherry tomatoes, olive oil, and bottarga (cured fish roe), which is an acquired taste. My friend went for a fresh tuna salad with tomatoes and boiled eggs. We shared a small plate of artichokes, aubergines, and courgettes.
Everything was beautifully simple: top-quality ingredients, cooked and seasoned just right. The mozzarella was huge, the bottarga sharp and briny, and the olive oil rich and peppery. The tomatoes, perfectly ripe and served at room temperature, just as they should be.
The tuna salad couldn’t have been further from anything out of a tin and was generous in portion.
The end of a Magical Meal
After paying, we wandered back through the now-closing market stalls. Grabbing a small punnet of wild strawberries to snack on, I reflected on what had been a truly lovely lunch and a magical day.
Reflections on a Mediterranean Escape
Syracuse—and especially Ortigia—left a lasting impression. I could easily spend more time here, and I plan to return soon. There’s something timeless and deeply satisfying about this corner of Sicily: the history, the food, the sea air.
A return visit is definitely on the cards.
must see places
The best meals in Syracuse come from simple ingredients and honest cooking, and these spots deliver just that.
Caseificio Borderi
A local deli near the market offers huge and delicious sandwiches, and it has a humble setup offering flawless coffee and perfect paninis
Ostriche da Concetto & Figli
This oyster stall on Market Street is just one of many fresh oyster stalls that make this street-side gem a go-to for casual seafood lovers.
Caffettiamo Siracusa
Ideal for a relaxed start—pistachio cream croissants and proper cappuccinos in a friendly, no-fuss setting.
Places to Eat
A sun-soaked stroll through Ortigia offers an unforgettable blend of culture, cuisine, and stunning sea views. Here are three standout places to explore.
Ortigia Market
Bursting with life and colour, this daily market offers fresh seafood, seasonal produce, and street food. A feast for the senses and a paradise for food lovers.
Website: street-food-tour-at-ortigia-market/
Piazza Duomo
This magnificent square is the cultural heart of Ortigia, home to the Duomo di Siracusa, historic façades, and cafés perfect for people-watching under the Sicilian sun.
Website: https://www.lonelyplanet.com/
Fonte Aretusa
A rare freshwater spring by the sea, shrouded in myth and history. Surrounded by papyrus and overlooking the harbour, it’s a serene spot full of character.
Website: Fountain_of_Arethusa
Inspired Recipes
Some recipes inspired by my brief trip to Syracuse, Italy.
Rich Pasta Dough (Essential Gluten-Free)
This pasta needs to be cooked while fresh because as it dries, it becomes brittle and shatters. It will roll out with a rolling pin but knead it well first. You could make it into noodles using a pasta machine or by hand.
View Recipe
