Adventure

Tortola Revisited

I said I would return to Tortola

And so I did, pretty much a year to the week. This time was different (See my previous blog). I didn’t head straight back to the smart marina or my old favourite Naturally Tasty by Rotiman, even though I was itching to try their conch and lobster roti that was apparently out of season (or perhaps they just ran out). Instead, I had my sights set on further afield — out to the north side of Tortola where the roads twist, the hills roll gently, and the sea glistens all kinds of blue you didn’t think existed.

Tortola Flag

Discover Tortola’s best beaches, local restaurants, and classic island recipes like conch fritters.

Tortola
Tortola
Tortola
Tortola-Panorama-05
Tortola
Tortola

A Quiet Lunch with a View

Inside Tropical Fusion Beach Bar and Grill, I was greeted by a charming young server. Lunchtime on Tortola’s north coast moves at island pace, so there weren’t many souls about, just a mum and daughter nursing rum punches while their father body-boarded in the surf. This place is more of an evening joint, but lunch here is a treat nonetheless.

"Sun, sea, conch, and rum: Tortola tastes like paradise remembered."

The Taxi Ride, The View, The Beach

I hopped into a taxi and wound around the southern part of the island on a warm, windy day. Beautiful doesn’t begin to cover it: the lush green hills, the ribbon of white sand, and the Caribbean stretching out before you. My driver pointed out how close the American Virgin Islands were — no more than a few miles across the bay — and casually mentioned USA warships patrolling the routes. Apparently, it’s a busy drug smuggling corridor. Travel writing: You see the weirdest details sometimes.

Long Bay’s Hidden Gem

Eventually, we dropped down to Long Bay, a small settlement with a handful of hotels, bars and restaurants. I handed over the fare and wandered onto the beach beside the restaurant I’d come for. The sand was pristine, powdery white; the sea a shade of turquoise that made me gasp. I’ve seen some world-class beaches — Grace Bay in Turks & Caicos, Whitehaven Beach in Australia — and this place sat comfortably right up there with them.

Scanning the Menu

I kicked things off with a cold local Carib beer and pondered the menu: juicy items like stew conch, stew whelks and pumpkin fritters leapt out. I nearly went for the creole lobster taco, but in the end chose jerk shrimp, a mango jerk chicken wrap, and started with conch fritters — because if you’re on an island famed for its seafood and conch stars on every table, you bloody well try the conch.

First Impressions of Conch Fritters

The fritters arrived hot, crisp, and packed with conch that had real texture — none of that rubbery stuff that tastes like an old flip-flop when overdone. The mango chutney served alongside was a perfectly sweet, sharp companion.

Shrimp That Surprised Me

The jerk shrimp wasn’t what I expected, but in a good way. Instead of the dark, smoky rub I’m used to, these plump shrimp were grilled then served in a light broth with peppers and onions — smoky enough to be interesting, gentle enough that every bite was balanced and juicy, with rice and a vibrant veg stir-fry alongside.

Mango Jerk Chicken Wrap

The chicken wrap was closer to tradition: richly seasoned, smoky meat tucked in a soft wrap with chunks of sweet mango. The interplay of heat, sweetness and the seaside breeze made this surprisingly memorable.

Back To Road Town

Our taxi driver fetched me, and we swung by the large marina on the way back, where he swore one of the best restaurants on the island awaited. Well, that’s my excuse to return yet again, isn’t it?

Weather

I recommend visiting between May and June.

Month High / Low(°C)

January 29° / 24°

February 29° / 24°

March 30° / 24°

April 30° / 25°

May 30° / 26°

June 31° / 27°

July 32° / 27°

August 32° / 27°

September 32° / 27°

October 31° / 27°

November 30° / 26°

December 29° / 25°

For a broader travel guide and more ideas on what to do and see, check out this comprehensive Tortola overview: https://britishvirginvillas.com/how-to-visit-tortola/

Sage Mountain National Park

A lush, protected forest with trails and viewpoints — perfect for stretching your legs and getting panoramic views over the island.

Cane Garden Bay Beach

One of Tortola’s most popular beaches with gentle waves, turquoise water and lively bars lining the sand — a classic Caribbean beach day.

Callwood Rum Distillery

Step back in time at one of the oldest rum distilleries in the Caribbean, where you can tour, taste and learn about the island’s spirited history.

Tropical Fusion Beach Bar & Grill

A relaxed beachfront favourite with fantastic views and fresh, well-executed local dishes; great for seafood and island-style comfort food with a rum punch in hand.

D’CoalPot BVI Restaurant Bar & Grill

Legendary for authentic Tortolan flavours, coconut-crusted fish, rotis and jerk favourites; perfect for laid-back lunches after beach time.

  • Location: Carrot Bay, West End, Tortola
  • Cuisine: Caribbean / Local Cuisine
  • Instagram: dcoalpotbvi
1748 Restaurant

An elegant yet welcoming option with a beautiful setting on Long Bay; excellent seafood and cocktails, ideal for sunset dinners.

Inspired Recipes

Some recipes inspired by my brief trip to Tortola

Conch Fritters

Conch Fritters
Mouthwatering conch fritters, crispy, flavourful bites with tender conch, perfectly spiced and irresistible, served with mango chutney.
View Recipe

Tortolan Fish & Fungi

Tortolan Fish & Fungi
A delicious fish stew from Tortola, featuring okra, tomatoes, cornmeal, and fungi, full of rich flavours.
View Recipe

Coconut-Curried Salt Fish with Rice & Peas

St Kitts
A Caribbean-inspired dish of gently curried salt cod simmered in coconut milk with kidney beans, served over fluffy long-grain rice and peas for a rich, comforting one-plate meal.
View Recipe