Adventure
Trieste – Italy
I didn’t know much about Trieste apart from what a good friend had told me, and even then, he couldn’t remember much apart from lovely red wine and coffee. I know it’s not a good recommendation. So, as we sail into the harbour, I have an open mind. It was very overcast, and the captain informed us that it would rain from late in the morning for the rest of the day, and the boy did it.
My research notes brought up a few things about this charming city. Firstly, it’s Italy’s unofficial coffee capital, with the average Italian going through 10kg of coffee beans a year. They call a coffee shop or café their second living room. Secondly, the humble Mortadella sausage is eaten here in massive amounts, something I will return to later. Thirdly, a soup called Jota made from that well-known Italian ingredient, cabbage sauerkraut. It’s certainly not your average Italian city.
Balkan Lunches is a series of restaurant visits starting in Croatia and Slovenia with a cheeky trip to northern Italy. Join Phil on this whistle-stop tour of the Balkans, where he samples some delightful local restaurants and cafes.
I recommend visiting Trieste in July or August, although any time of year is good to visit the city.
Month High / Low(°C) Rain
January 8° / 4° 6 days
February 9° / 4° 5 days
March 13° / 7° 5 days
April 17° / 10° 6 days
May 22° / 15° 6 days
June 26° / 18° 6 days
July 29° / 21° 4 days
August 28° / 21° 4 days
September 24° / 17° 5 days
October 19° / 13° 7 days
November 13° / 8° 8 days
December 9° / 5° 7 days
By the time I finish the day’s emails and texts, it’s mid-morning, and yup, it’s peeing down. I like to think I’m an optimist, so a bit of rain won’t unduly put me off. So, with Google Maps fired up, I set off to find the coffee shop and then the restaurant I had researched. As I go through passport control and walk out onto the wide harbourside, it’s now really hammering down. A few fellow travellers are geared up with waterproofs and are ready to go with their guide for a walking tour of Trieste undeterred.
The streets are wide, and the buildings are awe-inspiring. After only a 10-minute walk, thank goodness I see the coffee shop and dive straight in. Antico Caffe Torinese has been on this very street corner since 1919; the original design was made by passenger ship cabinet maker Debelli. It’s truly impressive with its fabulous Art Deco counter, and it’s just what I was looking for. As I walk in, drenched, the lovely staff usher me to a table and bring my coffee and water. The coffee is superb, and as I sip, many locals wander in, drink a quick espresso at the counter and depart. Sitting there, staring into the rain, and contemplating life was so nice. I could have had a quick nap!
Pounding The Streets
Back in the rain, I try to keep my phone from getting drenched and set off to find my lunch place. After a bit of ’round the houses’ and a little help from a charming young local, I stumble upon my destination, set on a street corner similar to the coffee shop.
The wind has risen, and the rain is horizontal. Inside the restaurant, it is rammed with locals and very busy. I hover at the front counter, trying to get somebody’s attention. Right on the counter is a huge mortadella (a large Italian sausage made of finely ground cured pork), and a chap is slicing succulent slices of cooked ham. Both looked amazing; I’m definitely in the right place. He nods in my direction, and I ask for a table. He looks around and asks me to wait.
A second tall, older gentleman approaches me, and I ask for a table again. He looks me up and down witheringly and just says, “No, full” I’m pretty used to how many Italians treat outsiders, so it didn’t bother me. I said I’d wait outside then. He shrugged his shoulders and walked off.
Safe Harbour
In to the rain again, I wait, and within a minute, a young girl gestures me into the restaurant next door, equally full but a second dining room. I’m in, and she’s so lovely, speaking perfect English. House wine and water arrive swiftly, followed by menus.
I just had to have a plate of that huge mortadella I saw next door to start with and then a dish I haven’t had for years in Italy, tripe; it’s a real delicacy here. I recall having it from a street vendor in Florence 20 years ago. The queue for his tripe-filled roll in tomato sauce was very long, and he was doing very good business. Another fantastic dish I remember from that trip to Florence was in a restaurant called Cibreo. It was a whole sheep brains steamed in nutmeg butter with toast. Not for the faint-hearted, but very good indeed.
Anyway, the large plate of this fine sausage speckled with pistachios and cubes of moist fat arrives, and customary here, lovely crusty bread arrives in a paper bag as it did in Salerno. The succulent barrel-sized slices are made even better for not coming straight from the fridge. I am not sure environmental health bothers here, nor should they, as it’s probably been served like this for centuries with no problems, so it’s good to see common sense in place. Plus, I bet the turnover is quick.
"Trieste offers a rich cultural heritage and diverse history."
Tripe, A Lost Delicacy
Tripe arrives cooked with tomatoes, white wine, olive oil and a touch of garlic, and I’m pretty sure there are no onions either. The texture is soft with a little bite; I add more salt, pepper, and a generous sprinkling of Parmesan. It’s much better than the raw stuff we had for tea as kids with fresh tomato, sliced raw onion, vinegar and pepper, although my dad loved it. The extra plate of vegetables consists of chard, a bit of fennel, and potato, which is a bit disappointing. Everything’s overcooked, including the shrivelled peas, but this is a minor distraction.
The place was still heaving as I paid and left, and it was so nice to feel comfortable in a local place with happy locals enjoying a simple but cracking meal. Prices are keen, and for 35 euros, it’s a snip. I will certainly return here again, even if Mr Grumpy is in charge.
As I wander back to the ship in the pouring rain, I am pleasantly full and happy. I pass the coffee shop I had been in earlier, and the young waitress who had served me sees me and waves. Waving back I point up to the rain, and she laughs.
Another great destination I can tick off on my long list of places I want to experience.
