Adventure
Turku – Finland
Waking up, I open the curtains to see rocky outcrops, small houses, and forests so close to the ship that it sets me back slightly. The ship is cruising very slowly up a narrow channel as we head up to the terminal at Turku. The scenery is so beautiful in the early morning sun, so I make a cuppa and sit outside for the last 30 minutes or so.
Turku is Finland’s oldest city and used to be its capital. The Fins have a great saying: ‘Why visit Paris when you have Turku?’.
I recommend visiting Turku from June to August, although any time of the year is good to visit the city.
Month High / Low(°C) Rain
January -1° / -7° 10 days
February -1° / -7° 7 days
March 3° / -5° 7 days
April 9° / 0° 6 days
May 16° / 6° 6 days
June 20° / 10° 8 days
July 23° / 14° 7 days
August 22° / 13° 10 days
September 17° / 9° 8 days
October 9° / 3° 10 days
November 5° / 1° 12 days
December 2° / -3° 12 days
Turku The Gateway to Finland
It certainly is a charming city and is the gateway to Finland. The city mostly straddles the river Aura, and as we drive into the centre, you see tall ships, lots of green spaces, and fabulous buildings, if that’s your thing. It takes about 20 minutes to drive or a 45-minute walk from the terminal, passing the medieval castle.
We arrived opposite the food market, which was more like my thing (I’ll come back to that), and then it was only a 10-minute walk to the cobbled riverside, which was charming. Restaurants, cafes and coffee shops are already busy, and it’s only 11 AM. I had a couple of coffee shops in mind, such as Café Art and Café Carré. I chose Carré as it seemed to place more emphasis on coffee. As I wander in, the two waitresses greet me; they are lovely and on the ball. After ordering a cappuccino, I found a nice table outside, half in the sun. Watching the world go by is one of my great pleasures, especially when the coffee is this good; I order another and sit back and enjoy the sun. I chatted with some guests and remarked on one gentleman’s T-shirt that read, ‘I may like to wander, but I’m not lost.’ Brilliant, I need one!
Not Lost
I finish my coffee and wander (not lost) down the river and over the bridge towards the cathedral, where there is a book sale with lots of stalls. I was surprised to see so many in English. Back along the other side of the river over another bridge, I return to the cobbled area for my booking at Hugge, a lovely, laid-back, relaxed vegetarian restaurant I had found. I have eaten a lot of fish, shellfish and meat on this trip, so I thought I’d have a change. I also read a lot about Swedish and Finnish restaurants serving more vegetable-based menus using unusual homegrown vegetables, herbs, and flowers.
There may also be a cost element here, but it would be a nice change. Like the coffee shop, the staff are so helpful and explain everything. The simple lunch menu changes every two days and has only two options. Today’s offerings are deep-fried halloumi, yoghurt and herb sauce, roasted tomatoes, avocado, roasted nuts and local salad or steamed sweet potatoes, herb-marinated beluga lentils, yoghurt and local herbs.
Hugge
Bread arrives in a bag (I love it) like in Funchal, and I order a small glass of Champagne. My main arrives, and it looks and tastes pretty good, in fact, outstanding. Soft, part roasted sweet potatoes, nutty lentils, lovely thick, rich yoghurt, a green sauce similar to a Salsa Verde, and a few basil leaves and ‘caviar’. I think this was the braised beluga lentils, also called black lentils. I’ve never seen these before. I’m going to give this a whirl when I’m home.
Clearing my table, my waiter said, ‘Bread, water and tea or coffee are all at the price, and you can help yourself.’ Coffee and tea stations are in the main restaurant. How refreshing such a simple concept and simple delivery, and it works, all for about £25
hügge - Danish & Norwegian for a mood of coziness and comfortable conviviality
A Food Lovers Market
My next stop was the food market, and it’s only a 5-minute walk from Hugge. The Turku Market Hall has been here since 1896 and is still thriving. It’s dark and cool inside and full of life; as expected, it’s heavy on fresh and preserved fish of all sizes and descriptions. Herrings also come in various guises, along with fresh and preserved reindeer. A few, I suppose you’d call restaurants, line the outer wall; one was an old railway carriage. Some are just three stools at a fish or meat counter. Most locals eat fish soup with lots of dill, which looks pretty good. A few are tucking into sushi, and there is a small Chinese and Thai offering. It’s a bustling pace and thriving, and if I return, I will return just for the fish soup. Right outside the market, the coach is waiting, ready to take me back to the ship for the next part of my Baltic trip: Helsinki, here we come.
