Adventure

Valencia, Spain

I arrive in Valencia on what must be the hottest morning yet, 33°C by the captain’s reckoning. And yet, here I am, perched up bright and early with a cuppa, watching the sunrise over the port. It’s a calm, lovely moment before the day’s excitement unfolds, and with emails and messages sorted, I set out in search of a simple, perfect tapas lunch… and, of course, a proper coffee.

Spanish Flag

Discover Valencia through a chef’s eyes—bustling markets, esgarrat, paella, and sun-drenched tapas in Spain’s brightest city.

Weather

I recommend visiting between March & June.

Month High / Low(°C)

January 16° / 5°

February 16° / 6°

March 19° / 8°

April 21° / 10°

May 24° / 14°

June 28° / 18°

July 31° / 21°

August 31° / 21°

September 28° / 18°

October 24° / 14°

November 19° / 9°

December 17° / 6°

A Coffee and the Art of Discovery: Coffee & Bikes

Thirty-five minutes from the port, I disembark at the old city walls and slip into the old town’s charm. The streets are impeccably spotless—no tacky tourist traps, just authentic Valencia. I pass the cathedral and the skirts of the main plaza, then spot a curious little shop called Coffee & Bikes. A couple of Americans mention how good the brew is, so in I go. A single chair and an even warmer welcome—this coffee is outstanding: sweet, perfumed, made with care—perfect fuel for the next stage.

Valencia

"Tarragona blends Roman history, vibrant markets, and delightful culinary surprises."

Mercado Central: A Feast for the Senses

A two-minute stroll later, I find myself in front of Mercado Central, and the sight takes my breath away. A monumental Art Nouveau building—over 8,000 m², domes, stained glass, iron and tile work flooding in light—truly one of Europe’s grandest markets. Inside, it’s a chef’s playground. Hundreds of stalls brim with jamón, fish—dozens of stalls, an oyster stand sporting some of the plumpest bivalves I’ve ever seen, snail sellers swapping advice, eel tanks squirming with life, and a butcher’s counter showcasing tripe, sweetbreads, heart, tongue—nothing wasted, everything revered.

One taste of those oysters—sweet, plump, that iodine kick—was irresistible. I devour three on the spot. I soak in the energy, mesmerised by the diversity and sheer abundance. Absolutely inspiring.

Tapas at Tasca De La Lonja: Padron Peppers and Esgarrat

Still peckish, I head just off the market to Tasca De La Lonja, perched at the top of a fine staircase. I’m in for simple tapas with soul. A plate of blistered Padrón peppers arrives, followed by Esgarrat—that mouth-watering Valencian salad of torn salted cod, roasted red peppers, garlic, olive oil, sometimes olives—torn, not chopped, as tradition demands. They even offer to serve it with bread, a wise move. Both dishes—rustic, balanced, and unforgettable—were served at room temperature, accompanied by generous olive oil, and the cod was just salty enough. “No, no, too much,” the waiter giggles when I try to order more—but really, I’m more than happy with what I’ve got.

Valencia Tastes Like Sunshine

Walking back through those luminous streets, my head full of market sights and flavours, I feel it: Valencia is a city that feeds you—one sense, one dish, one stroll at a time. It’s sun, simplicity and sophistication all mixed together.

From the elegance of Mercado Central to the minimal beauty of Esgarrat, and the smoky paella at Casa Carmela, Valencia stirs the soul as much as it fills the belly. As a chef and travel writer of many years, I’ve had many meals, but this city’s passion and authenticity stay with me.

Mercado Central

This stunning market is not just architecture; it’s heart and history. Fresh produce, sensory overload, and creative impulse all under one grand roof.Valencia

City of Arts & Sciences & Turia Gardens

Valencia balances tradition with futurism. Visit the ultra-modern City of Arts & Sciences and stroll through the Turia Gardens—nine kilometres of serene green cutting through the city.

Valencia L'Hemisfèric

The Gothic Quarter & La Lonja de la Seda

Wander the winding lanes, admire the Silk Exchange’s Gothic splendour and marvel at the intricate history tucked into every corner of the old town.Valencia

Here are three places well worth your appetite—butchers, burners and beyond:

Casa Carmela

Legendary for cooking paella Valenciana over orange-wood fires, instilling that unmistakable smoky aroma. Dabiz Muñoz hails it as having “the best paellas in the world”.

  • Location: El Cabanyal district, Valencia
  • Cuisine: Traditional Valencian paella
  • Website: Casa-carmela.com
La Salita

Begoña Rodrigo’s Michelin-starred spot, where vegetables are centre-stage. Inventive tasting menus, refined flavours, and a nurturing, creative ethos that helped rebuild Valencian culinary confidence after floods.

  • Location: Ruzafa neighbourhood, Valencia
  • Cuisine: Contemporary, vegetable-led fine dining
  • Website: (via Anarkia Group)
San Tomasso

Voted Valencia’s most beautiful restaurant—an intimate, rustic-bohemian space serving Italian pasta, pizza, antipasti, alongside a thoughtful wine list.

Inspired Recipes

Some recipes inspired by my brief trip to Valencia

Esgarrat (Valencian Cod & Pepper Salad)

Esgarrat is sunshine on a plate—sweet roasted peppers and savoury cod, brought together with luscious olive oil for a taste of the Mediterranean.
View Recipe

Spanish Braised Rice with Chicken & Chorizo

Spanish Braised Rice with Chicken Chorizo
Remember this is a braised rice dish and not a paella.
View Recipe

Paella Valenciana (Classic Meat Version)

Bursting with colour and flavour, with succulent chicken, saffron rice, and veggies, makes every bite a Spanish celebration!
View Recipe