Adventure
Gibraltar
A Taste of the Mediterranean Beneath the Rock
Gibraltar might be small, but when it comes to food, this extraordinary little corner of the Mediterranean has plenty to offer. From Spanish tapas and Iberico pork to British afternoon tea and some of the best octopus I’ve eaten in years, there’s far more to the Rock than monkeys and duty-free shopping.
Discover Gibraltar’s food, including grilled fish and Mediterranean cuisine, plus the famous Rock, along with travel tips and two delicious recipes.
Weather
Gibraltar enjoys a Mediterranean climate, with hot, dry summers and mild winters. April to June and September to October are particularly pleasant for sightseeing.
Month High / Low(°C)
January 16° / 11°
February 17° / 12°
March 18° / 13°
April 20° / 14°
May 22° / 16°
June 25° / 18°
July 28° / 20°
August 28° / 21°
September 26° / 20°
October 23° / 17°
November 19° / 14°
December 17° /12°
Gibraltar's Food Scene – More Than Fish and Chips
I’ve been to Gibraltar a few times over the years, though I have to admit I’ve often treated it more as a convenient gateway to southern Europe than a place to spend much time. That’s probably a little unfair, as it’s a fascinating place.
I first visited in 2011, filming Phil’s Island Hops for ITV’s This Morning. Technically, of course, Gibraltar isn’t an island, but let’s not get too bogged down in the geography.
I remember enjoying a lovely afternoon tea at the famous Rock Hotel, along with my first taste of gambas pil pil, those wonderful prawns cooked in sizzling garlic, olive oil, and chilli. I also remember a delicious pine nut and honey cake, which was right up my street.
Returning this time, I was determined to explore the food properly.
Now, what exactly is Gibraltarian cuisine? That’s a tricky one. British, certainly, but there’s a huge Spanish influence, which is hardly surprising when you consider you can practically walk out of the town centre and into Spain.
A Culinary Melting Pot with a Spanish Heart
Honestly, I’m not sure what you’d call Gibraltarian cuisine. It’s British at heart, but with obvious Spanish influences and an extraordinary international mixture. You’ll find Indian, Chinese, Thai, Mexican and Argentinian cooking alongside British favourites and traditional Spanish tapas.
Menus feature plenty of fish and shellfish, as you’d expect, as well as pork prepared in many ways, particularly the magnificent Iberico variety. Now that the border is open, you can walk 500 metres from the town centre and eat in Spain. Border control told me more than 2,500 Spaniards travel into Gibraltar for work each day.
Regular readers will know my views on Spanish ham. In my humble opinion, the world’s finest comes from Andalucía, particularly around Huelva and Seville. When you’ve tasted properly matured jamón Ibérico, with its beautiful marbling and rich, almost nutty flavour, it’s difficult to get terribly excited about much else.
Gibraltar is just two hours from Seville and within easy reach of this wonderful food-producing region, so I was hoping for something interesting.
Aquaterra – Small Restaurant, Big Surprises
After an early start from the UK, I wander into town with an open mind and an appetite. The main square and surrounding streets are packed with tourists. Google Maps isn’t helping me find Aquaterra, but I eventually spot it tucked behind awnings and small trees just off the square. Tiny, it reminds me of an old Wimpy bar crossed with a Golden Egg, complete with a raised bar (those of a certain age will know what I mean). The staff are great; within minutes, I have a drink and menus. I can’t see a kitchen door, but superb-looking dishes arrive at the table of eight behind me. One features two huge plates of peppers, ham and onions topped with perfectly fried eggs. I think I may be onto a winner. As it turns out, the kitchen is across the narrow alley behind the restaurant.
“British charm meets Mediterranean sunshine, spectacular scenery and delicious food.”
The Best Octopus I've Eaten in a Long Time
The octopus arrived on one of the strangest plates I’ve ever seen. It looked like something from Stingray or Marine Boy, those wonderfully peculiar television programmes from my childhood.
Goodness knows how they wash the thing.
Sitting in the middle was a beautifully charred octopus tentacle resting on cauliflower purée, finished with herbs and a generous drizzle of olive oil.
Now, I’m particularly fussy about octopus. I’ve eaten it everywhere from Lisbon and Lanzarote to Mykonos, New York and Curaçao, and there’s absolutely nowhere to hide when cooking it.
Get it wrong and you’re chewing something resembling a bicycle tyre.
The secret is a two-stage process: gently simmer the octopus until tender, then finish it over fierce heat to develop colour, flavour and those delicious crispy edges.
Here it was absolutely spot on.
Soft, beautifully seasoned and lightly charred, it was probably the best octopus I’d eaten since Curaçao the previous year. High praise indeed.
The cauliflower purée was perfectly pleasant, although I’ve never entirely understood why chefs insist on puréeing lovely fresh vegetables. Young cauliflower, asparagus and baby carrots are wonderful things in their own right. Why turn everything into baby food?
Beetroot Rice, Padrón Peppers and a Very Reasonable Bill
The accompanying beetroot rice was a revelation. Deep purple, wonderfully earthy and generously flavoured with large pieces of garlic, it had a firm bite.
Perhaps a little too firm, if I’m being picky, although I rather enjoyed it.
The Padrón peppers were equally good. These little Spanish beauties are one of my favourite things to eat, particularly when blistered quickly in a fiercely hot pan and finished with plenty of flaky sea salt.
There’s something deeply satisfying about their slightly bitter flavour, soft flesh and occasional fiery surprise.
With a decent coffee and sparkling water, the entire meal came to just €30, a shade over £25 at the time.
Considering the quality of the octopus and the generous portions, I thought that was an absolute bargain.
Why Gibraltar Deserves More Than a Flying Visit
Walking back through the busy streets, I found myself thinking how easily Gibraltar gets overlooked as a food destination.
It’s not somewhere with a particularly obvious culinary identity, and perhaps that’s part of its charm. British traditions sit comfortably alongside Spanish ingredients, Mediterranean seafood and influences from much further afield.
You can enjoy afternoon tea in a grand old hotel, eat sizzling garlic prawns in a tiny tapas bar or discover a wonderfully cooked octopus tucked away behind the main square.
And that’s what I love about travelling. Sometimes the most memorable meals aren’t found in grand restaurants with Michelin stars, but in small, slightly eccentric places where somebody in the kitchen really knows what they’re doing.
Would I return? Absolutely. Although next time I might leave Google Maps switched off.
Must See Places
Upper Rock Nature Reserve
The Rock is Gibraltar’s most famous landmark, offering extraordinary views towards Spain, Morocco and the Mediterranean. It’s also home to the famous Barbary macaques, although I’d keep a firm grip on anything edible, as these cheeky characters aren’t shy!
Europa Point and Lighthouse
At Gibraltar’s southernmost point, the striking lighthouse overlooks the Strait, with the African coastline visible on clear days. It’s a wonderful place to appreciate just how geographically remarkable Gibraltar really is.
St Michael’s Cave
Hidden within the Rock is an extraordinary network of limestone caverns, filled with dramatic stalactites and illuminated rock formations. The main cavern even houses an auditorium, making this one of Gibraltar’s most unusual attractions.
Places to Eat
Alfred’s Restaurant
This elegant restaurant at the historic Rock Hotel combines Mediterranean-inspired cooking with magnificent views across the Strait. It’s an excellent choice for a leisurely lunch or special dinner, with seasonal ingredients taking centre stage.
- Location: The Rock Hotel, 3 Europa Road
- Cuisine: Mediterranean, British and European
- Website: Rock Hotel dining
Casa Pepe
A long-established Spanish restaurant specialising in fresh seafood, grilled fish and traditional Mediterranean dishes. Its waterside setting and uncomplicated cooking make it particularly appealing for anyone who appreciates good ingredients without unnecessary fuss.
- Location: Unit 18, Queensway Quay Marina
- Cuisine: Spanish, Mediterranean and seafood
- Website: casapepegibraltar.com
The Lounge Gastro Bar
This family-run restaurant overlooks the marina and offers a varied menu of freshly prepared dishes using seasonal produce. It’s a relaxed choice for lunch or dinner, particularly if you fancy watching the boats while enjoying something good to eat.
- Location: 17A–B Ragged Staff, Queensway Quay Marina
- Cuisine: Mediterranean, European and modern British
- Website: thelounge.gi
Inspired Recipes
Some recipes inspired by my brief trip to Gibraltar
Pan-Fried Sea Bass with Padrón Peppers and Lemon Olive Oil
Crispy sea bass, smoky Padrón peppers, and fresh lemon make this simple Mediterranean supper delicious.
View RecipeBeetroot and Roasted Garlic Rice with Mediterranean Herbs
Deeply coloured beetroot rice with sweet roasted garlic and fresh herbs delivers wonderful earthy Mediterranean flavours.
View RecipeMediterranean Vegetable & Goats Cheese Open Tart
Crisp puff pastry loaded with Mediterranean vegetables, pesto, goat cheese, and basil.
View Recipe