Adventure
Lisbon: A Second Helping of Portuguese Food
Three years ago, I arrived in Lisbon almost by accident. This time I was returning deliberately, and I was looking forward to seeing whether the city lived up to my memories. It did – although, as usual, Lisbon made me work for my lunch.
Explore Lisbon through its best restaurants, sights and Portuguese recipes, from Bacalhau à Brás to wood-roasted octopus.
On my first visit, I forgot my phone charger, which meant a five-mile hike to an Apple shop in a shopping centre outside the main tourist area. At the time it was mildly annoying; looking back, it was actually rather useful. I got to see a slice of everyday Lisbon (read Lisbon 2023 blog) that most visitors probably miss.
More importantly, that walk introduced me to Lisboa Tu e Eu, a tiny restaurant in Alfama where I discovered Bacalhau à Brás. Shredded salt cod, soft onions, crisp matchstick potatoes, scrambled egg and olives – simple ingredients, beautifully handled. It remains one of those dishes I think about long after the holiday has finished.
Weather
I recommend visiting between June and August.
Month High / Low(°C)
January 15° / 8°
February 16° / 9°
March 18° / 10°
April 20° / 12°
May 23° / 14°
June 26° / 17°
July 28° / 18°
August 29° / 19°
September 27° / 18°
October 23° / 15°
November 18° / 21°
December 15° / 9°
Back to Alfama and another little gem
This time my research led me to Altar, another tiny neighbourhood restaurant tucked away in Alfama. I am always attracted to restaurants that don’t shout about themselves, and this one certainly doesn’t. From the outside, you could easily walk straight past it without realising there was a kitchen inside.
Getting there involved another climb. Lisbon is a city of hills, and if you intend to explore properly, I suggest you regard every uphill stretch as your starter course.
I arrived early without a booking, which was fortunate, as the restaurant soon filled up. By the time my starter arrived, they were already turning people away or telling them there would be a 30-minute wait. That’s usually a pretty good sign.
What really caught my eye was the wood-fired oven. The menu was refreshingly straightforward: salt cod with mayonnaise and mashed potatoes, sardines with potatoes and salad, duck legs with mash and green beans. Nothing trying too hard to impress. Just good ingredients and sensible cooking.
Then I spotted gizzards. Now, I love a gizzard. Chicken, duck, goose, pheasant – doesn’t matter. Cook them properly, and they have a wonderful deep flavour and just the right amount of chew. They’re essentially the muscular little gastric mill of the bird, so they need careful preparation, but the reward is enormous.
“Lisbon rewards the curious with hills, history and seriously good food.”
Wood-fired octopus and food worth walking for
My gizzards arrived with warm bread soaked in olive oil. The smell was fantastic, and the flavour was even better. They were cooked slowly enough to become tender without losing that lovely texture, and a magnificent hit of parsley ran through the sauce.
Then came my main course: wood-roasted octopus with cornbread, beans, cabbage, crushed potatoes and roasted garlic. Octopus is one of my perennial favourites – along with oysters, naturally – and this was a cracker.
There was a lovely smoky edge from the oven, while the octopus remained tender rather than becoming rubbery. The cornbread was almost like a loose stuffing, packed with black-eyed beans and sweetcorn, and the cabbage and crushed potatoes made it all feel substantial and comforting.
The portions were, frankly, enormous. I had no room for pudding, which says a lot.
The bill came to around £32 for the food, a small beer, sparkling water, and a tip. For the quality of cooking and service, I thought that was very fair. Would I return? Absolutely. That says it all.
And I still think about that Bacalhau à Brás from three years ago. Funny thing, food: sometimes one plate can become part of your memory of a whole city.
My First Visit to Lisbon
Explore Lisbon through coffee, markets and Portuguese food, with Bacalhau à Brás and octopus salad recipes for four.
Must See Places
Castelo de São Jorge
For me, this is an essential Lisbon stop. The medieval castle sits above the city and gives spectacular views across Lisbon and the Tagus; you’ll have to climb, but the view is your reward.
Jerónimos Monastery
Over in Belém, this magnificent 16th-century monastery is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of Lisbon’s great architectural treasures. It’s also closely connected with Portugal’s maritime history and the country’s Age of Discoveries.
Belém Tower
Standing beside the Tagus, Belém Tower is another UNESCO World Heritage landmark and one of the most recognisable symbols of Lisbon’s seafaring past. If you’ve got time, combine it with Jerónimos Monastery and, naturally, a Portuguese custard tart afterwards.
For more ideas, attractions and current visitor information, the official Visit Lisboa website is an excellent starting point.
Places to Eat
Altar
Two visits aren’t necessary for me to recommend this one – but I would happily make a return trip. The wood-fired cooking, generous portions and old-fashioned approach to Portuguese ingredients are exactly the sort of things I look for.
- Location: Alfama, Lisbon
- Cuisine: Portuguese
- Facebook: Altar Restaurant LX
Lisboa Tu e Eu
This tiny Alfama restaurant first introduced me to the joys of Bacalhau à Brás, and it remains firmly etched in my Lisbon food memories. It is small, unfussy and serves the sort of straightforward Portuguese food that makes you want to return the next day.
- Location: R da Adiça, Alfama, Lisbon
- Cuisine: Portuguese
- Instagram: Lisboa Tu e Eu
Taberna Sal Grosso
This is another small Alfama tavern built around honest Portuguese food, with just 27 seats at its original location. The restaurant itself describes its approach as serving straightforward Portuguese cooking with genuine hospitality – music to my ears.
- Location: Calçada do Forte, Alfama, Lisbon
- Cuisine: Traditional Portuguese
- Website: Taberna Sal Grosso
Inspired Recipes
Some recipes inspired by my brief trip to Lisbon
Bacalhau à Brás
Salt cod, crisp potatoes and creamy egg combine in this brilliantly simple Portuguese classic.
View RecipeWood-Roasted Style Octopus with Beans and Garlic
Tender octopus, smoky paprika, creamy beans and roasted garlic bring Lisbon's wood-fired flavours home.
View RecipeClassic Pastel de Nata
For the most authentic result, eat them warm with a generous dusting of cinnamon and a strong Portuguese coffee.
View Recipe