Aarhus – Denmark

When I spotted Limfjord oysters, there was never any doubt. April is one of the final months of the season, and these beauties were outstanding. Creamy rather than sharply acidic, topped simply with cucumber, onion and horseradish, they reminded me exactly why Denmark punches so far above its weight when it comes to seafood.

Next came beautifully cured herring with apple, curry and wasabi on dark rye bread. It was perfectly balanced—not overly salty, not aggressively pickled—just wonderfully fresh. The sweetness of the apple and the gentle heat from the wasabi transformed what many people think of as old-fashioned fish into something genuinely exciting.

My companion ordered beef tartare with trout roe, horseradish and crisp fried oysters. The beef was hand-cut rather than minced, exactly as tartare should be. Personally, I’d have added another pinch of salt and pepper, but that’s splitting hairs.

Then came the star of the meal: crisp fried plaice topped with lobster mayonnaise, ripe tomatoes and curly endive. Plaice rarely gets the appreciation it deserves back home, forever living in the shadow of Dover sole. That’s a shame because, in season, fresh plaice is magnificent. This version was crisp, delicate and beautifully fresh. My only criticism? A touch more seasoning wouldn’t have hurt.

I left Aarhus thinking exactly what every destination hopes you’ll think: I’ll be back. Even if it’s simply for another plate of oysters and that glorious plaice.